Inner wheel well repair

[tudor87]

I’m in the process of repairing/replacing an rear inner wheel well for my 31 Tudor. One side is repairable the other has to be replaced. I’m Soliciting advice on whether to lap or butt weld the patch panel that I bought years ago. Also, should I stitch weld the joint or spot weld? Any help here is greatly appreciated

[Harpkatt]

Butt weld to me is a better repair,however requires more skill to not burn through the panel since heat builds up fast at the end of a panel. Butt welding panels allows you to planish the weld and remove distortion caused by the heat of welding. However if youre mig welding this becomes more difficult as the welds are very hard and can crack while hammering.

Overlapping is easier,but will require more filler. Generally less filler is always better as it's less prone to failure.

[Bob Bidonde]

Ditto Harpkatt.

[wrndln]

Unless the fender well is really rusted out very badly, I would cut out the rusted spots and weld in (Butt weld) homemade patch panels. I have done this to several vehicles and it worked out well with just a little body filler.
Rusty Nelson

[rotorwrench]

Overlaps tend to be a place where corrosion starts. I butt weld with oxy/acetylene and a small aircraft type torch just like the old timers did. If the fit is tight then it takes very little RG45 filler rod. The key is to select a tip that is for the thickness to be joined then do quick spot welds spaced evenly across the joint. Skip around while finish welding so as not to overheat any particular spot too much. I planish as I go with hammer and dolly to keep the joint even all across the joint. I stop and let things cool a lot and planishing is part of this stop and start way of welding that has been referred to as hammer welding for many years. Welding tends to draw the two sides of the joint together so planishing is meant to force it back to normal and harden the weld joint up to give it strength.

This type of work can be done with a TIG torch if a person is so equipped. The area under the fenders isn't a spot that can be seen so it's a good place to learn technique. The body should be set up to allow access as much as possible, ie remove floor pans in key areas. I actually prefer to disassemble the body but that makes more work. It allows a person to kill all the rust in the unseen areas but this work is not for everybody. I also find myself doing all the work. It's not easy to work with another person when planishing things but is can be done. I used to buck a lot of rivets in aircraft repair and I really had to trust the other person to do a proper job on their end. One slip can make a lot more work.

[Ed in Maine]

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I love this forum but sometimes I think I just want to be yelled at! I was in hobby for many years before I could afford a mig welder. Too many family expenses but I always felt that if you had a welder there was a lot of parts at Hershey that could be saved with just a little bit time. Sheet metal is one area. If you are building a show car and the judges are going to look at the inside of your car behind the upholstery then use butt welds. There are tools to hold the sheet metal in alignment so that you get a finished job that looks like that it wasn't welded. But if you want an easier time of it, a very strong welded job because you should weld the panel on both sides and it is in a place that isn't easily seen (its behind the tire) use the lapped joint. Arrange the lapped joint so that it sheds water like the roof of your house. Get the vice griped tool with the die that makes the shape of the lapped joint. To avoid any heat distortion, weld a short distance and stop and go to another area and weld again. Have a wet rag ready to cool the areas just welded. On the outside where all the dirt and water is going to be, I have always seal welded the seams. It is time consuming and there will be a lot of grinding off the welds smooth. In the inside of the rear wheels, I have also placed welds every 2 in. for a stronger job and caulked between the welds with a black sealer. Avoid silicone caulks to prevent paint adhesion problems. In the cowl section there is a good possibility of water leakage from the gas tank seam. I would seal weld both sides of these panels. Do not use Bondo to prevent moisture from getting between panels, use steel!

I have always had a problem making a decent weld that would go along the line between panels. Therefore, I make my welds across the seam and stop welding quickly to prevent heat distortion. Take care to only watch the "weld pool", go across the seam about 1/8" and then go back to the line between panels and just for a second to add just a bit of weld material and finish the weld. I find it helps to clamp a piece of copper sheet metal on the back side to minimize burn through. I would also recommend getting a weld mask that automatically operates the lens to protect your eyes. Welding is one of the most satisfying tasks in the hobby because you are saving money, and saving a part that most likely would end up in the dump. Good luck, Ed

[nkaminar]

I use a wire welder. They are fairly inexpensive. As Rotorwrench said, take your time and do small spots at a time, allowing the part to cool between welds. I butt weld. I use the smallest amount of amperage and just enough wire feed to get the job done. I set up the current and wire feed on a scrap piece and do a little practicing first. I am not the worlds best welder so I screw up occasionally and have to fill in the holes I make.

[Oldbluoval]

There’s a welder trick that some laugh at….its called slugging.
Back up the weld with a piece of carbon or copper and it won’t blow thru when using MIG.
Like I said, really good welders scoff !!! Needless to say ..I use it occasionally!!

[Rustisgold]

Very cool

[tudor87]

Thank you all for the input on repairing the inner wheel well, thanks to you all I’ve decided to keep the one well that was about 40 percent gone. I’ve practiced welding for about two straight days and might just make it happen.