Any other suggestions or adds I need to make?

[rockfla]

So
Looking trough the local craigslist, I came across an portable engine run stand for $40. I figured I couldn't buy the steel for that SO I popped on it. Over the successive time period I bought parts and pieces AND now i am at the point of configuring, fabricating brackets and installing all the meters and wiring. SO anyone have one and see anything I need to add or configure on mine? I have a manual water temp gauge, I have installed a 12V blue lighted switch on a 12V lawn and garden battery for the new Aluminum radiator with built in cooling fan so I can control the cooling with that. Mechanical oil pressure gauge, and an ammeter. I have a toggle switch for the 6V on off switch and will install a new 6V starter switch for the current "key" switch now. I am fabbing the radiator mounting brackets today and I think I will go with a little bit larger fuel tank that will feed the motor by gravity as it will mount higher than the motor will sit once in the stand. Any other suggestions or changes you would make or change would be appreciated. I still will be working on a more "permanent" mounting for the motor BUT for now the first engine I plan to run is already mounted on a cradle that I plan on clamping to the frame of the stand.

[ford38v8]

Once you mount an engine on it, you'll wish you had larger wheels. You want to store it inside but run it outside, and you have a rough road to haul. You might also consider getting a BBQ grill cover so you can leave it outdoors.

[tubman]

I have found that an engine test stand is an ongoing project. Since I got mine going, I have added a tachometer, O2 meter, oil temperature gauge, and dual (6 and 12) voltage capability, among other changes and improvements. When I built mine I used the works from an old 3-wheel engine stand to provide a universal rear mount, and settled on a standard '41-'48 Ford front mount arrangement. A flathead (early or late with truck pumps) bolts right on and I have the Hurst-style front mount adapters for the SBC, Olds Rocket, and early hemi that are up next. The front mounts can be fixed to the stand, but I made the rear adjustable so it can slide back and forth to account for differences in length. This is in case I ever run into the 320' Roadmaster or 356' Packard I've been thinking about.

Another thing about wheel (caster) size. The bigger the better, but at least make sure that they are big enough so the frame of the stand is high enough off the floor so your "Cherry Picker" will slide under them. Makes life a lot easier.

[rockfla]

Thanks 38FordV8 & Tubman


as for the moveability/caster size, I don't really plan on moving it once an engine is on it "per se".....just move if from where I store it to my gantry crane & hoist. Tubman, like you I am wiring mine for "both" 6V and 12V......I would "like" to have my cooling fan operate "automatically"......and I still "might be able to, I have to "machine" the adapter that came with my manual gauge to fit the flathead pump and machine the end so it seats in the pump correctly....then I can get an auto temperature control switch for it and an "electric" gauge. I'm not sure IF one is more better than the other???. Thanks for y'all's input so far!

[Bored&Stroked]

I would add an electric fuel pump and a fuel pressure regulator and gauge that mimics the pressure you'll run in the car. You really want to fill the carbs and test the whole fuel circuit as you would in the real world.

Also, I prefer to have the fuel tank in front of the engine/radiator . . . as this keeps it away from the exhaust and there tends to be more issues with things that go wrong towards the back of the engine.

[rockfla]

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Bored & Stroked


Is there a "particular" brand of regulator you like???

[tubman]

Since capability of both voltages usually means both positive and negative ground, I will give you the benefit of my experience. Keep the common (frame) grounds to a minimum; for the starter and ignition only. For everything else, run two wires. On mine, I have a Master Power switch; "ON" or "OFF". After that, I have a heavy duty DPDT (center off) switch that switches between polarities. Failure to faithfully observe this separation cost me a fuse on my "tach driver" and the complete power booster for the O2 sensor (luckily, a cheap unit from Amazon). I also have indicator lights that illuminate, showing which "ground mode" and voltage the stand is in. Trust me, it can get confusing. Make sure the switches are set right before installing the battery. This gets into battery post size mismatches, which can be slightly irritating.

One last "wiggle"; since most automotive voltage gauges start registering at 8 volts, I had to add a second voltmeter for 6 volt mode.

[19Fordy]

Rock, I know you said you won't be moving it around with engine installed but, the one time that you do need to move it "loaded" you will be glad you did install larger wheels.
Also, less chance of tipping over.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Rock, I know you said you won't be moving it around with engine installed but, the one time that you do need to move it "loaded" you will be glad you did install larger wheels.
Also, less chance of tipping over.

Yeah, the ones that are on it now some nudnick WELDED on and I hate having to go through grinding and cutting them off.......BUT Its looking like the "SHAMING" here is gonna make me go ahead and do the DO!!!! LOL

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by rockfla

Bored & Stroked


Is there a "particular" brand of regulator you like???

I typically use a Holley Low Pressure regulator - has worked fine for me on a couple cars.

[19Fordy]

Originally Posted by rockfla

Yeah, the ones that are on it now some nudnick WELDED on and I hate having to go through grinding and cutting them off.......BUT Its looking like the "SHAMING" here is gonna make me go ahead and do the DO!!!! LOL

Yes, cutting and grinding off those nudnick casters is a pain in the butt but, just chalk it up as being well worth the effort as it will give you peace of mind. Just attack one caster each day and you'll be a happy camper as you push through your problem.
I realize your situation is different but, 35 years ago I had an engine block fall of a cart with small casters when it rolled over a small stone. I was able to weld the piece of block back on. Good casters aren't cheap but, no more small casters for me. I learned my lesson. Thank goodness it was not in a critical area. You can see the weld below.

[deuce5wndw]

I use an old Mercury boat gas tank with the quick disconnect so it sets away from the hot running engine.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

I typically use a Holley Low Pressure regulator - has worked fine for me on a couple cars.

Looking at the Holley regulators they all look like 4.5 is the lowest pressure you can get....I need to be able to get down to 2.5 or 3 correct???

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by rockfla

Looking at the Holley regulators they all look like 4.5 is the lowest pressure you can get....I need to be able to get down to 2.5 or 3 correct???

I cranked mine down to 1 lb and toured cross country at that pressure without issues. better less pressure than over pressure anyway.

[Newc]

I can't post photos here, but mine is a highway trailer too. I can sell the engine a swap meet and/or show it with the V8 club. Incredible number of folks have never seen or heard a flathead V8 run. Newc