What did I do and how do I fix it? 1953 Mercury

[engine103]

Started off trying to solve a right turn signal problem. All running or parking lights worked but no turn signal on the right. Sequence as follows:

1. appears prior owner replaced lamp socket with new but did a bad job splicing wiring so unwrap electrical tape and yes very bad splicing.
2. connected one wire and bulb in fixture and it lit up and also produced a weak blinking both front and rear.
3. connected second wire to socket (see wire in picture) bulb went out.
4. EVERYTHING WENT OUT! No lights no starter no nothing! a complete electrical shut down! Checked the only two fuses I know under the dash and they are good. My battery is a trusted battery and appears good.
What did I do? The good thing, there was no smoke anywhere.

That is not MY wiring in the photo.

[rockfla]

A few questions here that will help all who may reply.


Is it a stock 6V positive ground system?


Has it been converted to 12V?

[engine103]

Yes Vehicle is 100% stock 6V positive ground. Thank you..

[rockfla]

I am not a 51-53 guy nor have I worked on one BUT being that its still 6V positive ground THE best thing you can do IS when you remove any socket, wire connection, make sure you clean them to shinny metal and where they attach to ALSO to shinny metal so you have good solid grounds. I also like to use a swipe of di-electric grease on what ever I clean to make sure that the connection STAYS nice and clean and solid. ALSO make sure any wire you use is the proper size wire for 6V systems, normal auto parts store 12v wire is too small for 6V systems. Good luck, I am sure someone more capable than I will chime in here.

[engine103]

Thanks rockfla!

[engine103]

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Checked the battery and it is fully charged just to eliminate that. The last lamp that was on was the courtesy lamp above the driver's feet but that one slowly went dim then out.

[Bob C]

Have you load tested the battery? When you say slowly went dim sounds like a bad battery.

[engine103]

Hi Bob, no I have not load tested the battery. I did put battery on charger and it shows full charge, I know that's not the same as load test. Prior to my fixing things, all electrical including starter worked great. Thanks, jim

[engine103]

Turning on headlight switch there is no indication of discharge on the battery gauge.

[engine103]

OK, put a better charger on for a couple of minutes, headlights came on. I disconnected charger and headlights dimmed then out so I think I'm on to something. Will pick a new battery today. I don't understand how connecting that wire that has been there for years would cause the battery to short out (?). Also, do battery chargers care if it's positive ground or not?

[rockfla]

When you go get your new battery, you are best served to buy yourself a hydrometer and check each cell of the battery you are fixing to buy with it. That is the best way to tell IF you are getting a good battery. FYI...we went through 5 "NEW" batteries before we found one GOOD one!!!! AND it also took a patient salesman at the local OReilly's too's as he had to pull two batteries from other local stores AND ordered in two more from Atlanta distribution when those two failed the test!!!!

[engine103]

Good information. This is an OReilly's Battery less than a year old. I do have a hydrometer that I will take with me. Thanks rockfla!

[rockfla]

Just an FYI. A battery will show 6.4 or whatever 6.???? on a multi-meter but can still have a weak to bad cell....hence the hydrometer to check each cell!!!! Ultimately, you may find spending the $$$$ for a red top Optima is the smart $$$$

[Robz51]

Have you checked voltage at the fuse/curuit breaker panel located behind and above the ignition switch? That's Ford's version of curcuit protection. Of course, check grounds as mentioned. If it's original wiring it may be time to replace the wiring harness. Good luck!

Sent from my SM-S901U1 using Tapatalk

[40cpe]

This could be caused by a weak or corroded battery cable at the battery or a ground. Cables sometime go bad where the wire is connected to the cable end, especially on those where the cable wire is just clamped to the connector at the battery post.

[engine103]

Robz51, I checked that panel with the two fuses and the fuses were good but did not check the voltage. Thanks, Jim

[engine103]

40cpe My positive cable is bad, cracked and worn, will replace that along with a new battery tomorrow. Thanks

[pistonbroke]

Before you buy a new battery clean and check your cables at both ends. It may save you the price of a new battery. Tim

[TJ]

If you have the old braided ground cable throw it away and get a new ground cable.

[rotorwrench]

I'm not as familiar with the 52 & 53 cars but have a lot of experience on the 49 through 51 Mercury cars. Lights were generally protected by a short stop type breaker somewhere under the dash. Any direct short to ground will open the breaker for the lights till the breaker cools off and resets.

The turn signals always use an 1156 type 6-volt bulb with two filaments. The signals and brakes use the "bright" filament so they can be seen during the day. The park and running lights use the dim filaments. If they got connected backwards then the dim filament may be functioning with the signal but it needs more current draw than that to get the signal stat to cause the signals to blink on and off.

I would use sealable butt splices or completely replace the wire from under the hood down to the signal socket. The connection on turn signals needs to be perfect at all times or the signals will be problematic. I would be very curious of what is going on with the light socket too. It's bad enough to have open spade or handshake terminals down in a swampy area like that. It's just asking for troubles. There shouldn't be a need for a ground wire down under that fender. What is it grounding. There should be two power wires going down there. One for park and one for turn function.