Pinion Seal Removal

[Shoebox]

This subject had been discussed much in the recent past. I read all posts with great interest as I had a a seal replacement looming in my near future as my '51 project progressed. I did NOT want to remove the entire rear end, or the center section. I didn't want to do a brutal chisel, screwdriver, hammer approach either. The use of drilling and using self tapper screws and a slide hammer as mentioned by Tubman and others seemed reasonable. I didn't have any proper screws and I wanted more "grip" on the seal. I drilled 19/64" holes through the front metal of the seal, NOT through the back metal. This let me hook in a little 90 degree tip of my little slide hammer into the seal. A bunch of pulls on the LH and RH holes and just a couple on the upper hole and the seal came out. Just thought I'd share. Thanks

[Kurt in NJ]

I have fixed leaks at the pinion by cleaning the vent— something to check even if the seal is bad.

[Shoebox]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

I have fixed leaks at the pinion by cleaning the vent— something to check even if the seal is bad.

Good point Kurt. I recently installed all new stainless brake hard lines and rubber hoses. When I installed the lines/hose that goes to the junction block held onto the rearend by the vent bolt, I made sure it was clear.

[19Fordy]

Thanks, Shoebox for posting your seal removable idea. You made me remember a slide hammer I made in 1975 to which you could attach a Jacob's chuck for similar jobs. Perhaps others can make one also.
I had saved the chuck from an old electric drill. I have 3 other chucks if anyone would like to adapt one to their slide hammer. You can thread the shanks as they are not hardened. Just send me a PM.

[wga]

Replaced the seal and put a Speedi Sleeve on the pinion. My seal was original 'Chicago Rawhide' leather. And the grooves in the pinon confirmed that.

[Flathead Fever]

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The way you did it is the way I replaced pinion seals at work on all rearends. I've probably replaced a hundred of them over 30-years that way without any problems.

[pistonbroke]

Read the book on retorquing the pinion nut. I've been lucky on most of the rear ends over the years but not all. Tim

[Shoebox]

Tim, prior to removal I marked all parts involved and counted the amount of turns to remove the nut. Reassembly involved same amount of turns of the nut and all the center punch marks lining up. I can only hope this gets me back in the ballpark. Although not wanting to add to the project at this time, I continue to keep an eye out for a Maverick rear end.

[Joe B.]

Originally Posted by Shoebox

This subject had been discussed much in the recent past. I read all posts with great interest as I had a a seal replacement looming in my near future as my '51 project progressed. I did NOT want to remove the entire rear end, or the center section. I didn't want to do a brutal chisel, screwdriver, hammer approach either. The use of drilling and using self tapper screws and a slide hammer as mentioned by Tubman and others seemed reasonable. I didn't have any proper screws and I wanted more "grip" on the seal. I drilled 19/64" holes through the front metal of the seal, NOT through the back metal. This let me hook in a little 90 degree tip of my little slide hammer into the seal. A bunch of pulls on the LH and RH holes and just a couple on the upper hole and the seal came out. Just thought I'd share. Thanks

Thanks for the tip. I am about to tackle this project and am apprehensive. Mine leaking bad all of a sudden. The vent was serviced. I recently added some Barr's stop leak to help a weeping axle seal and maybe this ruined the pinion seal all I can figure.
Also worried about using an open end wrench on the u-joint bolts. Maybe I should heat them first.

[Shoebox]

Originally Posted by Joe B.

Thanks for the tip. I am about to tackle this project and am apprehensive. Mine leaking bad all of a sudden. The vent was serviced. I recently added some Barr's stop leak to help a weeping axle seal and maybe this ruined the pinion seal all I can figure.
Also worried about using an open end wrench on the u-joint bolts. Maybe I should heat them first.

Not sure about the Barr's Stop Leak, if original, these seals are 70 some years old and worthy of replacement. Regarding the u-joint bolts (or any crusty hardware) I recommend hitting with a penetrant in advance.

[Joe B.]

Originally Posted by Shoebox

I drilled 19/64" holes through the front metal of the seal, NOT through the back metal. This let me hook in a little 90 degree tip of my little slide hammer into the seal. A bunch of pulls on the LH and RH holes and just a couple on the upper hole and the seal came out. Just thought I'd share. Thanks

Did you have the tip hooks pointed in or out? Thanks. The u-joint bolts freed up easy. I worked out a jacking arrangement so I'm safe and also have plenty of room to work. Going to attempt the leaky trans seal at the same time. Waiting on parts and a couple cooler days. The car will be outside.

[Shoebox]

Originally Posted by Joe B.

Did you have the tip hooks pointed in or out? Thanks. The u-joint bolts freed up easy. I worked out a jacking arrangement so I'm safe and also have plenty of room to work. Going to attempt the leaky trans seal at the same time. Waiting on parts and a couple cooler days. The car will be outside.

The tip used is in the lower LH corner of the tool box pic. I pointed the hook in whatever direction gave me the most solid pull. Good that you have a safe jacking arrangement as you need some "elbow room" for all the tugging and grunting. Let us know how things go.


Scott

[Joe B.]

I removed the pinion seal with the claw hook type tool. The trans seal had a lip so came out with a small chisel. Had to pull the driveshaft three times. I goofed and had the pinion nut -one turn and it alerted me right away with a grinding noise. Tightened it up and the new seal was leaking as bad as the old. Shaft looked good and measured 1.625" like it should but seemed a little loose in the seal. Ordered a different brand seal and installed an SKF "speedi-sleeve" on the shaft which looks beautiful and brought the dia. out to 1.650". No more leak. A tip on D.S. removal, grind down a 1/2" box wrench to get a good purchase on the u-joint bolts. Before and after sleeve, sleeve tool, and wrench mod. pics. PS, I put some RTV on the shaft washer at the splines in case that's where the leak was. I'm still not sure. Sorry about being long winded.