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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Pella, IA
Posts: 408
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I know I've had this problem before and fixed it, but can't remember how. It seems like it was a simple carb adjustment. Anyone know?
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clinton,WA/Whidbey Island
Posts: 4,457
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Float level
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www.whidbeymodelaclub.com |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Pella, IA
Posts: 408
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,114
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These may help.
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Bob Bidonde |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1,559
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This was a known problem with the earlier Zenith carbs. The introduction of the of the carb with the brass secondary well went some way to resolving it, but as Gary#2 and Bob#3 say...incorrect fuel level is the usual culprit.
Last edited by johnbuckley; 07-15-2024 at 10:42 AM. |
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#6 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 21
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,476
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I was just noticing the 3 degrees. Guess there are other benefits to changing that tired old front spring after all. I know when I changed mine it was amazing to see the height change, and the handling improvement.
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#8 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Mountain View, CA
Posts: 44
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I just fixed this on my cabriolet - in my case it was rust accumulation inside the carburetor. Not saying that is your issue however.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: NH/ VT
Posts: 460
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I agree with Bcontheroad--this is a great graphic. I find all of Bob Bidonde's graphics exceptionally well-done and helpful. Bob--do you sell a book of them?
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,114
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My graphics are not for monetary profit. I make them primarily to show at club meetings as I am the Tech VP of the Model A Ford Club of Long Island. I also share them on Model "A' websites when I think they will be helpful to a fellow Model A'er.
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Bob Bidonde |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 618
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IMHO, the first, non invasive thing to do is to reset your base idle air mixture. Use the instructions in the Model A Instruction Manual. I set my GAV at 1/4 turn open to do this. Our car performs as described in Bob's third graphic panel shown above.
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"It ain't what you know for certain that gets ya in trouble. It's what ya know for certain that just ain't so!" ![]() |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 6,039
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I’ve always tried to address this issue by adjusting the float level, but I just bought a Z-carb rebuilt by a reputable carb craftsman, and it had the same trouble of dying at stops. I was about to open the carb and adjust the shim washers and re-measure the float level and so on, when it occurred to me the GAV had initially been sticky. I replaced that with one from my bone pile, and it was after that that the carb started to die at stops.The builder sent me a replacement GAV needle and after I installed that today there was no more dying. Then I remembered years ago an oldtimer ‘A’ guy said "it’s not always the float valve; sometimes if you open the GAV the dying will stop." In my case, a new needle did the trick. Lesson learned.The oldtimer was right.
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Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole. ![]() |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,143
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Brakes are adjusted too good.
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