The Ford Barn

The "A" Team · 05-27-2024, 05:12 PM

Hi everyone,

I just replaced the brake pads on one of the rear wheels today, and when I went to replace the hub, it won't go on. It looks like it's getting stuck on the new brake pads. I turned the adjustment bolt all the way out and detached the brake rod, so the shoes aren't being engaged. Is there something I did wrong or something I need to the pads to get them to fit correctly? I attached a pic of the finished assembly. The new pads are just dirty from my dirty hands touching them, there's no oil or grease on them.

bobbader · 05-27-2024, 07:36 PM

If you turned the adjustment all the way out, the adjusting shafts on the shoes could be resting on a high spot on the adjusting wedge. Turn the adjuster back in until it "clicks". This will assure that the adjusting shafts are in the detents (low spot) on the adjusting wedge. If this doesn't change things, the new linings will need some trimming to fit the inside diameter of the drum better. Professional brake repair shops do this with an arcing machine, although this process may be outlawed in your locale.

2speed · 05-27-2024, 07:38 PM

Take the shoe and put inside the drum and see if there are any gaps. Usually the ends are higher than the middle, and could be why you're not able to get the drums on. You can attempt to sand them by hand, or place a piece of sand paper in the drum and run the shoe back and forth.

David in San Antonio · 05-27-2024, 08:31 PM

I had a similar (appearing) problem, but on the front. I had the drums and shoes arc’ed by a local shop which still has the arbor for Model A’s. So I was very surprised to find the drum would not go back on. Hours of effort and numerous tries uninstalling it all yielded zip. It turned out someone had dropped in a “pill” to take up the non-existent slack.
If this turns out to be the cause with yours I’ll feel a little less idiotic for not having completely disassembled the darn thing until redoing it 10 or more times.

Charlie Stephens · 05-27-2024, 09:28 PM

Sounds like it may be the problem I had on my '37. My drums were all NOS. Did a little digging and found out that the suppliers at that time routinely arced all the shoes for .030 drums. I sent them back to where I got them and they returned them to the manufacturer to be arced correctly. Have a shop measure your drums and proceed accordingly. If you can't find anyone local to arc the shoes (try asking at your local club) contact Randy Gross, 714-292-8660.

Charlie Stephens

nkaminar · 05-28-2024, 07:25 AM

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All the above are good suggestions. But also check that the cam (the siding part that pushes out the shoes) is actually sliding. And check to see that the rollers on the shoes are sitting correctly.

Steve Schmauch · 05-28-2024, 10:31 AM

Check the thickness of your new brake shoes. I tried to install the thicker brake shoes with a standard drum, and they would not fit either.

Marshall V. Daut · 05-28-2024, 03:30 PM

Disconnect the brake rod at the actuation arm by removing the clevis pin. It might be that the brake equalizer shaft is not adjusted to the neutral position for all four service brake rods and the rear you are working on has its arm already slightly pulled forward instead of at the full return position. You'll be able to tell right away if this is the case because the clevis pin will be hard to remove and the actuating arm will snap back to its full back position when the pin comes out. It doesn't take much in the rear to move the rear brake shoes because of the long actuating arm's leverage. Just a little bit of release may be all you need. THEN try to mount the drum.
Marshall

Marshall V. Daut · 05-28-2024, 03:32 PM

OOPS! I now see in your picture that the brake rod is just barely visible in the corner of the photo. So, you have already thought to remove the brake rod. Oh, well. Maybe my suggestion will help someone else.
Marshall

rotorwrench · 05-28-2024, 04:29 PM

A lot of brake shoe linings are thicker than standard so that they will work with drums than have been turned to oversize. This can be a problem when a person puts new shoes on. Other things like the restoration of parts like the roller tracks on the backing plates can be problematic if they are not properly located. The shoes may need to be fit to the drums or a thinner lining material may be in order.

05-27-2024, 07:36 PM	#2
bobbader Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Huntington, NY Posts: 352	Re: Can't replace hub after replacing brake pads. If you turned the adjustment all the way out, the adjusting shafts on the shoes could be resting on a high spot on the adjusting wedge. Turn the adjuster back in until it "clicks". This will assure that the adjusting shafts are in the detents (low spot) on the adjusting wedge. If this doesn't change things, the new linings will need some trimming to fit the inside diameter of the drum better. Professional brake repair shops do this with an arcing machine, although this process may be outlawed in your locale.

05-27-2024, 07:38 PM	#3
2speed Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2022 Posts: 105	Re: Can't replace hub after replacing brake pads. Take the shoe and put inside the drum and see if there are any gaps. Usually the ends are higher than the middle, and could be why you're not able to get the drums on. You can attempt to sand them by hand, or place a piece of sand paper in the drum and run the shoe back and forth.

05-27-2024, 08:31 PM	#4
David in San Antonio Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2022 Location: San Antonio Texas Posts: 545	Re: Can't replace hub after replacing brake pads. I had a similar (appearing) problem, but on the front. I had the drums and shoes arc’ed by a local shop which still has the arbor for Model A’s. So I was very surprised to find the drum would not go back on. Hours of effort and numerous tries uninstalling it all yielded zip. It turned out someone had dropped in a “pill” to take up the non-existent slack. If this turns out to be the cause with yours I’ll feel a little less idiotic for not having completely disassembled the darn thing until redoing it 10 or more times. __________________ David in San Antonio Late ‘30 Deluxe "Wretched Roadster" Alamo A’s Club

05-27-2024, 09:28 PM	#5
Charlie Stephens Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 7,305	Re: Can't replace hub after replacing brake pads. Sounds like it may be the problem I had on my '37. My drums were all NOS. Did a little digging and found out that the suppliers at that time routinely arced all the shoes for .030 drums. I sent them back to where I got them and they returned them to the manufacturer to be arced correctly. Have a shop measure your drums and proceed accordingly. If you can't find anyone local to arc the shoes (try asking at your local club) contact Randy Gross, 714-292-8660. Charlie Stephens

05-28-2024, 07:25 AM	#6
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 5,855	Re: Can't replace hub after replacing brake pads. Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) All the above are good suggestions. But also check that the cam (the siding part that pushes out the shoes) is actually sliding. And check to see that the rollers on the shoes are sitting correctly. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

05-28-2024, 10:31 AM	#7
Steve Schmauch Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Spokane, Washington Posts: 76	Re: Can't replace hub after replacing brake pads. Check the thickness of your new brake shoes. I tried to install the thicker brake shoes with a standard drum, and they would not fit either.

05-28-2024, 03:30 PM	#8
Marshall V. Daut Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Davenport, Iowa Posts: 2,626	Re: Can't replace hub after replacing brake pads. Disconnect the brake rod at the actuation arm by removing the clevis pin. It might be that the brake equalizer shaft is not adjusted to the neutral position for all four service brake rods and the rear you are working on has its arm already slightly pulled forward instead of at the full return position. You'll be able to tell right away if this is the case because the clevis pin will be hard to remove and the actuating arm will snap back to its full back position when the pin comes out. It doesn't take much in the rear to move the rear brake shoes because of the long actuating arm's leverage. Just a little bit of release may be all you need. THEN try to mount the drum. Marshall

05-28-2024, 03:32 PM	#9
Marshall V. Daut Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Davenport, Iowa Posts: 2,626	Re: Can't replace hub after replacing brake pads. OOPS! I now see in your picture that the brake rod is just barely visible in the corner of the photo. So, you have already thought to remove the brake rod. Oh, well. Maybe my suggestion will help someone else. Marshall

05-28-2024, 04:29 PM	#10
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 17,410	Re: Can't replace hub after replacing brake pads. A lot of brake shoe linings are thicker than standard so that they will work with drums than have been turned to oversize. This can be a problem when a person puts new shoes on. Other things like the restoration of parts like the roller tracks on the backing plates can be problematic if they are not properly located. The shoes may need to be fit to the drums or a thinner lining material may be in order.