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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,462
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I'm about to clean and rebuild several Zenith Model A and B carbs and looking for a better approach to removing the choke and throttle plate screws. This has been previously problematic because repeated efforts to turn out the screws ends in buggered up screw heads and zero movement of the screws.
I have used releasing agents like Kroil and Free-All, mild application of heat, turning the screws in slightly before backing out, as well as increasing levels of profanity, all too often without success. What tips or tricks have worked for you folks? Thanks! |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,855
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I am not sure if this would not damage the shafts, but I have used an impact screw driver for stubborn screws. Maybe back up the shaft with a heavy weight.
another option is to drill out the screws, clean up the threads in the shafts, and then buy new screws. https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Imp...s%2C353&sr=8-5
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Young Harris, GA
Posts: 1,964
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Use hollow ground screwdrivers that exactly fit the screw slot width and length. They apply a lot of torque without “camming out” of the slot.
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Jim Cannon Former MAFCA Technical Director ![]() "Spread the Joy! Have a Model A day!" |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 6,039
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"Use hollow ground screwdrivers that exactly fit the screw slot width and length".
That’s the ticket.
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Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole. ![]() |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,216
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Took a few apart today……
Heat the screws first, i have used a handheld solder torch or carefully w/a very small tip with my victor torch set. Use a good screwdriver using as much down pressure as you can muster. If the screw begins to strip -stop & use a thin Dremel cutoff wheel to re establish the slot. Have not had to drill or dissect one since using heat…
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Tim Downtown, Ca |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: brentwood, ca
Posts: 4,420
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 3,168
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Be very careful with the disassembly. A lot of good Zeniths have been destroyed during disassembly. The attached document should guide you through it.
http://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-conte...etor-11-07.pdf Tom Endy |
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#8 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clinton,WA/Whidbey Island
Posts: 4,457
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www.whidbeymodelaclub.com |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 889
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Hollow Ground screw drivers are also known as gunsmith’s screwdrivers
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 327
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Urus
I've taken about 25 - 30 carbs apart in the past month and came up with a unique (I think) way to get the jets and screws out. The cap jet's are broken off and are 5m.75 pitch which is small and I heated them in the throat and then took a long piece of wax and melted it around the jet and took a really small easy out 1/8 and gently tapped it in and they screwed right out. I did it on the early GAV's that have the jet at the bottom, now that was a trick because someone had already mess up the screw driver slot, but after a little heat and wax they screwed right out. I put a little heat on the throttle plate and then touched the screws with wax and a screw driver that was a little bigger than the screw and so far everyone has come out. I was shocked and don't know what possessed me to think of it but 85% of the time the part comes loose. Hope this helps |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: brentwood, ca
Posts: 4,420
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Bruce, will have to give that a try.
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