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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Summerfield, NC
Posts: 228
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Good morning to all! I am converting my mechanical brakes to hydraulics using the kit from Early V8 Garage. I did not get any instructions on connection of the hand brake cable to the rear brake mechanism. It appears to me that I can use a cable end yoke to connect to the original actuator lever to expand the brakes inside the drums. Am I on the right track? Thanks!
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,025
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You need a ball end to connect to the Lockheed brake levers; a repop '39 cable would be a good starting point.
Beware (unless things have changed) that the springs on the repop cables are too long. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 10,148
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Summerfield, NC
Posts: 228
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I was provided the cable as you both posted... but no other information on actually making the rear stock brake system work using the hand brake lever. I figured to replace the adjusting mechanism at the top of the stock 1935 backing plate with the hydraulic wheel cylinder and then connect the ball ends of the cables to the original brake actuator lever... but, it sounds like I may need to get some other setup... because what I just described has no accommodation for brake shoe adjustment.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,025
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Most everybody uses '39-'41 or '42-'48 Lockheed hydraulic brakes. Other choices are Lincoln Bendix brakes or maybe splurge for some Boling Bros repop Lincoln brakes.
Back in the day Ansen converted mechanical brakes to hydraulic by inverting the plates and replacing the wedge with a Chevy Huck wheel cylinder that had adjusters built in. They did rears too; but I've never seen a good enough picture to see how they did the e-brake. |
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#6 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 10,148
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Summerfield, NC
Posts: 228
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Thanks for the replies... I do have the very nice Lincoln Bendix brakes now in the front... If I come up with a good plan on the stock rear brakes... I'll post again.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Napa,California
Posts: 6,564
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A good plan would be to use the correct backing plates for the hydraulic brakes. Preferably the 42-48 ones.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,025
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Lockheed brakes are relatively cheap and your '35 drums will work.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Summerfield, NC
Posts: 228
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Hello Rich... do you have any links to point me too on the "Lockheed brakes are relatively cheap and your '35 drums will work"? I'd like to keep the '35 drums... so that sounds like my direction. I imagine they will accommodate the e-brake cable and have an adjustment too.
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#11 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,025
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Look for complete assemblies, especially that the e-brake levers are in place. Wheel cylinders should be replaced and the shoes relined of course. E-brake cable tubes are sometimes either rusted away or damaged; but they are easily replaced. |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Summerfield, NC
Posts: 228
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Thanks Rich!
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Summerfield, NC
Posts: 228
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Just finishing up this thread... I did get different backing plates... from Bolling Brothers. It now works perfectly. Fact is the E-brake now will dead stop the rear wheels and the brake pedal after bleeding is stiff. Great result! Just needed to add better rear backing plates to the parts from EarlyV8Garage.
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