New issue - stalling at idle/low RPM?

[Outdoorboy26]

So the '52 Ford Courier Sedan Delivery with the flathead 239 I've had about six weeks blew a radiator last month. It sat about 3 1/2 weeks with 87 octane in it without being started until I got the replacement radiator in. I also added new 180-degree thermostats (PO was running none). Everything works - thermostats come on at 180, temp hovers around 180 (a little higher as expected at idle or stops), and higher up the steep mountain to my house (it got to 200 when I reached the top of the mountain and my driveway). I'm fine with all that. However, on the test drive after I got everything installed, it stalled twice - both at low RPM coming to a stop. Both times fired up with an easy crank and immediately after stalling. It's also a little harder to start - needs more cranks to fire up. We have had cooler weather, 70s during the days, high 50s at night. Did it just sit too long without cranking? Would carb cleaner help? Fuel stabilizer? I don't plan on letting it sit that long again, would just like to do what's best and avoid the stalls. Thanks in advance, guys. I'm loving my new hobby!

[flatford8]

My ‘50 began stalling when coming to a stop, coming down to an idle, just like yours. I cleaned the points and regapped them. Wiped out the distributor cap and cleaned up the rotor. It does start quicker and no more stalling when coming down to an idle. You may want to try to find non-ethanol fuel......Mark

[Merc Cruzer]

Automatic pr standard?

Re-adjust the idle crews once it is warm, to get the maximum idle. You might want to increase the idle speed just a bit.

[SoCalCoupe]

Assuming the gas wasn't too much older than the 3-1/2 weeks the car sat, I doubt that's it. Weather sounds perfect; doubt that has anything to do with it either.


IMHO adding thermostats is a good way to go. The car will warm up quicker and, regardless of weather, the engine temperature should be more consistent. In principle that should mean that outside air temp shouldn't affect your state of tune as much as it would without thermostats. Maybe your car is running hotter now with thermostats and that's affecting your tune?



Could be a lot of things. I agree with flatford8's recommendations regarding points, cap and rotor. While you're at it I'd set the timing too.


I had a similar issue and decided my idle mixture was too lean. The car had been hunting at idle and to keep it from stalling I'd set the idle speed a little fast to compensate. The mixture screws had been set at the point where any leaner just started to slow down RPMs. I re-verified that and then turned them out a quarter turn richer, then reset idle speed. Some people like to use the vacuum gauge method but for me for now, no more hunting or stalling. I may go back later and see what's up with vacuum.


May not be your issue but it's not hard to check and doesn't cost anything.

[Outdoorboy26]

It's a manual three-speed. I'll service the points, distributor cap and rotor as recommended. (When I figure out how ... ha!) What would be recommended idle RPM for the flathead?

[cadillac512]

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In the 500-600 rpm range for a stock engine works pretty well.

[flatford8]

You may want to join the Early Ford V8 Club,if you haven’t already. A member local to you may be able to help......Mark