The Ford Barn

German guy · 02-04-2025, 04:52 AM

My 30 A had a good quality engine rebuild about 5000 km ago but then sat around for three years while a previous owner died of prolonged cancer. As soon as it warms up I will install the Snyder's partial oil filter and new 6.1:1 head, and grinding the valves (if needed). ???It is extreme overkill to...after the head and filter installation...fill it with Mobil 3000 high detergent 10 W30 oil and run it for a few hours at moderate RPM before draining it, replacing the new filter, dropping the oil pan, scrubbing it and the pump screen, and then shifting to Mobil One 0-W40 full synthetic? No idea how much sludge has built up with the limited use but that oil has been in the engine for at least 4 years with no more than 400 km use at this point. My thought is that this may eliminate any pollutants coming from the new installations as well as break up old sludge that has settled. Is this overly cautious or manic compulsively clean freakish?

ronn · 02-04-2025, 05:21 AM

you are a super freak!

sounds like over kill to me, but the answers you get from Ford Barn will vary GREATLY.

lol

nkaminar · 02-04-2025, 06:09 AM

Go with the evidence. Is there any evidence of sludge? When you drained out the old oil was it clear or dark colored? Did you run you finger up inside the engine pan to see if there was sludge?

If you use the high detergent oil, run the car for 500 miles at least and then change it. Or go directly to the 0W-40 oil. The high mileage oil is a waste of money if you are not going to keep it in the engine for 3,000 miles or more.

JayJay · 02-04-2025, 10:57 AM

My $0.02 worth - nothing bad in what you propose, but I think a bit overkill. Three years sitting is not a lifetime, especially on a new rebuild. Like NK suggests, I would change the oil (examine the drained oil closely for chunks or shiny stuff) and install the goodies, then drive it for a couple hundred miles or so before changing it (and the filter) again. Unless you see anything to suggest that you are eating bearings I would not worry about dropping the pan and clearing sludge.

And a valve grind with 3000 km on the engine? Why on earth? That’s a brand new engine! Don’t fix it if it isn’t broken.

My opinion, and how I’d proceed based upon what you’ve said. But as Ronn stated, you’ll get a wide variety of other opinions here. Remember, you asked! ��

Ernie Vitucci · 02-04-2025, 12:04 PM

Good Day to you. If you can, ask the fellow who rebuilt the engine what oil he suggests. Some rebuilders set the main and rod clearances for 10-30, others for simply 30 detergent. Others suggest 15-40 detergent. The original Ford owner's manual suggests 20 wt in the winter and 40 wt in the summer. Depending on where you drive your A it might be happier with thinner oil for cold weather starting or thicker oil for desert conditions...Reprints of the manual are available from the usual sources. Ernie in Arizona

Chris Haynes · 02-04-2025, 01:29 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

If your car drops one drop of oil a mile with conventional oil it will drop five drops a mile with synthetic Why you ask. Because synthetic penetrates and lubricates better.

BButturff · 02-04-2025, 02:33 PM

If it were mine, I'd add a full flow filter kit, change the oil adding 10w40 and drive it. With that low amount of kilometers it can't have much, if any sludge build up.

Sunny the Model A · 02-04-2025, 06:13 PM

I put a partial flow oil filter on my A engine and I daily the thing, I change the oil when it gets dark and then I filter the oil out and run it in the A like two stroke oil. The a will digest pretty much anything you can throw in it. No smoke and no smell if kept under 30-1 mix

Synchro909 · 02-04-2025, 06:18 PM

As I have posted before, I have 4 Model As, all with a Mitchell O/D. I have installed a magnet on every drain plug in every car for obvious reasons. I suggest you (and every other Model A owner) does he same.
As for the original question, I'd drain the oil and while the drain plug is out, I'd poke my finger into the sump and check for sludge. I doubt there will be any. If you find none, change the oil and drive confidently away. If there is any sludge, flush it, refill with your favourite oul and drive confidently away. I also have a full flow filter on each engine and unless yours is a show car, I can't see any reason why an owner wouldn't do the same.

02-04-2025, 04:52 AM	#1
German guy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2023 Location: German/French border Posts: 104	More questions on oil change My 30 A had a good quality engine rebuild about 5000 km ago but then sat around for three years while a previous owner died of prolonged cancer. As soon as it warms up I will install the Snyder's partial oil filter and new 6.1:1 head, and grinding the valves (if needed). ???It is extreme overkill to...after the head and filter installation...fill it with Mobil 3000 high detergent 10 W30 oil and run it for a few hours at moderate RPM before draining it, replacing the new filter, dropping the oil pan, scrubbing it and the pump screen, and then shifting to Mobil One 0-W40 full synthetic? No idea how much sludge has built up with the limited use but that oil has been in the engine for at least 4 years with no more than 400 km use at this point. My thought is that this may eliminate any pollutants coming from the new installations as well as break up old sludge that has settled. Is this overly cautious or manic compulsively clean freakish?

02-04-2025, 05:21 AM	#2
ronn Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ Posts: 7,650	Re: More questions on oil change you are a super freak! sounds like over kill to me, but the answers you get from Ford Barn will vary GREATLY. lol

02-04-2025, 06:09 AM	#3
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 5,872	Re: More questions on oil change Go with the evidence. Is there any evidence of sludge? When you drained out the old oil was it clear or dark colored? Did you run you finger up inside the engine pan to see if there was sludge? If you use the high detergent oil, run the car for 500 miles at least and then change it. Or go directly to the 0W-40 oil. The high mileage oil is a waste of money if you are not going to keep it in the engine for 3,000 miles or more. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

02-04-2025, 10:57 AM	#4
JayJay Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 2,110	Re: More questions on oil change My $0.02 worth - nothing bad in what you propose, but I think a bit overkill. Three years sitting is not a lifetime, especially on a new rebuild. Like NK suggests, I would change the oil (examine the drained oil closely for chunks or shiny stuff) and install the goodies, then drive it for a couple hundred miles or so before changing it (and the filter) again. Unless you see anything to suggest that you are eating bearings I would not worry about dropping the pan and clearing sludge. And a valve grind with 3000 km on the engine? Why on earth? That’s a brand new engine! Don’t fix it if it isn’t broken. My opinion, and how I’d proceed based upon what you’ve said. But as Ronn stated, you’ll get a wide variety of other opinions here. Remember, you asked! �� __________________ JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature!

02-04-2025, 12:04 PM	#5
Ernie Vitucci Senior Member Join Date: May 2016 Location: Scottsdale, Arizona Posts: 656	Re: More questions on oil change Good Day to you. If you can, ask the fellow who rebuilt the engine what oil he suggests. Some rebuilders set the main and rod clearances for 10-30, others for simply 30 detergent. Others suggest 15-40 detergent. The original Ford owner's manual suggests 20 wt in the winter and 40 wt in the summer. Depending on where you drive your A it might be happier with thinner oil for cold weather starting or thicker oil for desert conditions...Reprints of the manual are available from the usual sources. Ernie in Arizona

02-04-2025, 01:29 PM	#6
Chris Haynes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Camarillo, CA and Pine Grove, CA Posts: 2,962	Re: More questions on oil change Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) If your car drops one drop of oil a mile with conventional oil it will drop five drops a mile with synthetic Why you ask. Because synthetic penetrates and lubricates better. __________________ 1921 Runabout 1930 Tudor Early 1930 AA Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?

02-04-2025, 02:33 PM	#7
BButturff Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2024 Location: The driftless area of SE Minnesota Posts: 116	Re: More questions on oil change If it were mine, I'd add a full flow filter kit, change the oil adding 10w40 and drive it. With that low amount of kilometers it can't have much, if any sludge build up.

02-04-2025, 06:13 PM	#8
Sunny the Model A Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2021 Location: Charleston SC Posts: 309	Re: More questions on oil change I put a partial flow oil filter on my A engine and I daily the thing, I change the oil when it gets dark and then I filter the oil out and run it in the A like two stroke oil. The a will digest pretty much anything you can throw in it. No smoke and no smell if kept under 30-1 mix __________________ "Ain't but three thangs in this world worth a solitary dime, but A Models, Sweet Tea, and Macaroni Pie!" Last edited by Sunny the Model A; 02-04-2025 at 06:21 PM.

02-04-2025, 06:18 PM	#9
Synchro909 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 8,044	Re: More questions on oil change As I have posted before, I have 4 Model As, all with a Mitchell O/D. I have installed a magnet on every drain plug in every car for obvious reasons. I suggest you (and every other Model A owner) does he same. As for the original question, I'd drain the oil and while the drain plug is out, I'd poke my finger into the sump and check for sludge. I doubt there will be any. If you find none, change the oil and drive confidently away. If there is any sludge, flush it, refill with your favourite oul and drive confidently away. I also have a full flow filter on each engine and unless yours is a show car, I can't see any reason why an owner wouldn't do the same. __________________ I sometimes wonder what happened to the people who asked me for directions. Even at my age, I still like to look at a young, attractive woman but I can't really remember why.