brake equalizer cross shaft

[pat in Santa Cruz]

I'm working on a late 28 frame that's under a station wagon body. It has the equalizer cross shaft system. Clearly the brackets that hold the cross shafts to the frame do not carry the type of bushings found on the one piece shafts. I cannot find any descriptions nor photos of how the bushings should be supported, or what they look like. The supports and bushings on this car look fishy to me ( see photo) My question is, is this correct? if not, what is?

TIA


IMG_1289 by tiopato2000, on Flickr

[1931 flamingo]

That may be a "farmer" fix. What do the vendor catalogs show??
Paul in CT

[pat in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

That may be a "farmer" fix. What do the vendor catalogs show??
Paul in CT

neither Brattons nor Snyders carries early equalizer shaft parts, just the one piece. Even Ford did not make replacement parts...the service bulletins say to replace the twin shafts with the single one.

[criswellnk]

Are those the correct brackets for the two-piece cross shafts? The two-piece set-up did not use any type of bushing between the brackets and the shaft, and the brackets were a different shape as well. The shaft just rode in/on the bracket itself.



The top bracket in the photo is for the two-piece cross shaft and the lower one is for the later one-piece cross shaft.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Pages 202, 203, and 264 in the SERVICE BULLETINS have good pictures of the early brake system.

[supergnat]

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Here is a photo of one of my 28 cross shaft brackets.
Supergnat

[moasew]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Pages 202, 203, and 264 in the SERVICE BULLETINS have good pictures of the early brake system.

Tom:

Would you be able to email a copy of these bulletins . I have Les Andrews book and was told it has these diagrams but not so.

Thanks.

Wilfred

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by moasew

Tom:

Would you be able to email a copy of these bulletins . I have Les Andrews book and was told it has these diagrams but not so.

Thanks.

Wilfred

Sorry, but my scanner/copier doesn't work, so I can't help.

You would need a lot of parts and work to change your rear brakes. I'd keep it stock.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

thanks guys
this all helps. Apparently the shaft or brackets are worn, and the oddball thing is in there to take up the slop. It has the correct brackets, but either they or the shaft is worn so much someone could get a 1/4 inch "shim" in there. I guess the shaft is coming out one of these days to address the looseness. As it is now, it clunks rather loudly on bumps.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by pat in Santa Cruz

thanks guys
this all helps. Apparently the shaft or brackets are worn, and the oddball thing is in there to take up the slop. It has the correct brackets, but either they or the shaft is worn so much someone could get a 1/4 inch "shim" in there. I guess the shaft is coming out one of these days to address the looseness. As it is now, it clunks rather loudly on bumps.

My 28 Phaeton also makes a loud clunking when ever I go over railroad tracks or hit bumps. I thought it was brake rods, but it may be this linkage. Someone stuck a sliver of wood under the left side top bracket part.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

My 28 Phaeton also makes a loud clunking when ever I go over railroad tracks or hit bumps. I thought it was brake rods, but it may be this linkage. Someone stuck a sliver of wood under the left side top bracket part.

maybe the same guy had your phaeton as had my pickup. It had the window felt channel bailing wired to a hatchet-cut stick of wood that was wired to the brackets that were supposed to hold the metal channel.

[columbiA]

The early 2-piece cross shafts had to have the side to side movement on the ends to equalize the pull between front & rear on both sides of the car.Shoving anything on either side of the cross shaft is defeating the purpose of the original design.

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Originally Posted by columbiA

The early 2-piece cross shafts had to have the side to side movement on the ends to equalize the pull between front & rear on both sides of the car.Shoving anything on either side of the cross shaft is defeating the purpose of the original design.

Sorry, not to be nit-picking, but in order to clarify your statement, don't you mean front to back ? I agree with the rest of your statements. This was actually a better braking system, IMHO, than the later style! (other than the fact that if the frame is "twisted" badly when going through a ditch or over a curb, that the dogbone can fall out! Ever had this happen? Jim

[columbiA]

Jim--To me,the side to side movement meant the same as your front to back statement.Maybe I didnt word it right.I know on the earliest brakes the dogbone would sometimes fall out & I think that a little later on there were stops on the frame to try and prevent that from happening.

[supergnat]

Oh, so that'e why those stops are there.

[moasew]

I'm planning to machine the two cross shafts so I can place the split bushing and newer frame bracket on . Is this OK or should I stay with the original brackets and no bushings?

I do not have the individual emergency brake shoes so changing to the single cross shaft would be pricey and take away from the originality more than I'd like.

BTW does anyone have original cross shafts (preferably the second style with the longer tapered socket as shown on the right in the photos) for the equalizer shaft (dog bone)? I need to replace with the same style on each side.
It turns out I have two styles of cross shafts.The very first one on the left and the second style on the right.

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by moasew

I'm planning to machine the two cross shafts so I can place the split bushing and newer frame bracket on . Is this OK or should I stay with the original brackets and no bushings?

I do not have the individual emergency brake shoes so changing to the single cross shaft would be pricey and take away from the originality more than I'd like.

BTW does anyone have original cross shafts (preferably the second style with the longer tapered socket as shown on the right in the photos) for the equalizer shaft (dog bone)? I need to replace with the same style on each side.
It turns out I have two styles of cross shafts.The very first one on the left and the second style on the right.

This is the single cross shaft Ford used for cars with the left hand
emergency brake. It has an extra lever for the emergency brake.

Bob

[moasew]

Hi Bob:

Do you have this for sale? I've ordered AR drums (same front and back)
from Mel(Randy Gross) but am wondering if I should order the newer drums to accept the separate emergency brake providing I can get the other parts required. Do I need a totally different backing plates for the rear? What other parts do I need to make the transition to separate E brake and keep the lever on the left.

Thanks

Wilfred

[mrtexas]

Originally Posted by Bob C

This is the single cross shaft Ford used for cars with the left hand
emergency brake. It has an extra lever for the emergency brake.

Bob

Sure that isn't a bubba fix part?

[Ron in Quincy]

Another important part of the floating brake system is the socket springs that are installed in the socket at the inside of the cross shafts; the springs keep outward tension on the cross shafts ; this should stop the rattle.
When setting up the brake rods insert a small wood block on both sides of the cross shafts on the outside brackets to hold the cross shafts in the center of the brackets; now adjust the brake pedal rod so the cross shaft ends are vertical; then adjust the length of the brake rods with out the return spring attached to the frame, be sure to pull the built in free play out of the rear brake rods; when complete attach return springs to the frame, remove small wooden blocks at cross shaft brackets.
Assuming you have good brake shoe lining and have adjusted brake shoes in each wheel you should have good brakes, 60 percent on the rear and 40 percent on the front.

Good motoring,

Ron