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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: SoCal Desert
Posts: 842
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Hey All,
I'm cleaning up my new 221 flathead and I found a couple of cracks around the drivers side water pump. Can they be fixed, and if so, how much? Regards Bill |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 10,162
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern France
Posts: 5,837
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Better strip the entire engine down before you go further. Its likely cracked elsewhere.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Perry Mo.
Posts: 714
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Sad to to see but those look like freeze cracks to me. If so there are probably more you haven't found yet. Tim
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,538
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1. CAN the cracks be repaired?
2. SHOULD the cracks be repaired? 3. WHEN is the best time for repair? A. Is this a running motor or a core for rebuild? B. Are the cracks stable or progressing? C. Are there any oil, coolant, or combustion gas leaks? If the motor is running with good compression and no abnormal leaks, and the cracks are stable, then leave as is. Monitor for progression of cracks and leaks but enjoy the car. A failed repair could destroy a perfectly functional running motor. If its a core, by all means consider having the cracks welded by a competent welder familiar with welding cast iron. Remember the costs of repair may exceed the current price of a good core. |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,723
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I would closely inspect the oil pan rails (where the oil pan bolts too) - especially around the area of the center main cap. Usually if there are freeze cracks in other places, the oil pan rail will crack along its length. Also, check on the outside of the block on the sides (like around all the exhaust ports) - see if you see any cracks in these locations. To me, you're now in "no mans land" - where the only way to know that this block/engine is good is to tear it apart and have it magged and then pressure tested. This starts to get expensive and I'd only do it if you really want to run this motor and know that it can be reliable (or not). The cracks you showed could be fixed with 'pinning' - I wouldn't be afraid to do that at all. BUT, it is the other potential cracks that I'd be worrying about. If the pan rails are cracked, I consider them to be "fatal" - I won't invest time/money into a block with these issues. Best of luck and sorry to see what you just showed . . . B&S |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: SoCal Desert
Posts: 842
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I don't mind spending time on this because I'm calling it getting an education the quick way, and getting educated is never free.
I paid $225. for the motor, but I told him I'd give him $300 for it if he removed it from being a generator and that I only wanted the engine and radiator. It took him 9 hours to release the engine and to drop it off at my house. 9 hours in 100 degree weather to make that extra $75. I spent another $100 on an order showing up today. An oil filter, book, a pan gasket and one dome and two boots for the distributor. I'm still going at it with the wire wheel on the outside and haven't found anything that's on the same side as the crack. I have yet to do the right side. Total investment so far, ... $400. Before I have the cracks welded, I'm going to fire it up first to see where I'm at. If it runs like crap, I' guess I'll have a $400 boat anchor. Regards Bill Last edited by BillCNC; 07-20-2022 at 12:17 PM. |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Beverly Kansas
Posts: 5,303
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If thats the only cracks they could be stitched easily. However, could be more as all have stated. I once was going to fire up a motor that looked like an old rebuild, or at least a " rattle can " rebuild. once I had everything hooked up and ready to go, the last thing was put some water in it. Sadly, I could hear water running into the oil pan ! I ran it anyway since it was ready to go, then later found one cylinder cracked from top to bottom. Wide crack, like pushed from freezing. It ran better than one would think !
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