Front wishbone

[hotrodalley]

While driving today, i noticed a bit of shimmy/wandering. When i checked the radius ball connection to the transmission I found it to have quite a bit of "play". Can anyone tell me how tight this connection should be?
Thanks

[pat in Santa Cruz]

the lower cup should be tightened up against the spacers, then backed off to the nearest cotter holes. If the ball is not worn, there will be a space about 1/8th inch between the cups. If there is no space, the ball is worn. One trick is to add a cupped flat washer as a shim to take up the wear. I have seen some so worn they took 2 washers. A better solution is to build the ball back up with weld and file or grind it back to its original size. If I remember right it's 1 1/2 inch, but don't quote me on that size, its off the top of my head. I always double check the specs before I do something like that to make sure I am shooting for the correct measure. Apparently there are new radius balls made now that can be pressed and welded onto a stub made from turning the old ball.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Pat is correct, it is 1.500" diameter.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by pat in Santa Cruz

the lower cup should be tightened up against the spacers, then backed off to the nearest cotter holes. If the ball is not worn, there will be a space about 1/8th inch between the cups. If there is no space, the ball is worn. One trick is to add a cupped flat washer as a shim to take up the wear. I have seen some so worn they took 2 washers. A better solution is to build the ball back up with weld and file or grind it back to its original size. If I remember right it's 1 1/2 inch, but don't quote me on that size, its off the top of my head. I always double check the specs before I do something like that to make sure I am shooting for the correct measure. Apparently there are new radius balls made now that can be pressed and welded onto a stub made from turning the old ball.

James Rogers and I have discussed this at length as I have found stainless steel balls that are the correct diameter but I/we have not been able to figure out a easy way to machine the existing ball off on our Bridgeports in a timely enough manner to make it profitable. Since NOS wishbones are still out there, the procedure would need to be performed in about one hour from start to finish to make it feasable. Any suggestions?

[RockHillWill]

Use a 'hollow' mill in the headstock of the lathe to turn it down while holding the wishbone in a fixture near the tail stock. Drill a hole in the 'ball' and weld it in place like A&L does on the steering arms.

Because this pivot ball (unlike the steering arms) requires both fore and aft restraint in addition to lateral control, I have been concerned about welding this ball in place for liability issues.

Instead, I have made a 1/8" x 2-1/4" diameter plate with an 1-1/2" diameter bored hole in it. I then weld up the worn areas, and dress the ball up using the bored hole as a gauge by rotating it all around to dress to size. I do NOT weld and dress completely smooth because I like the thin gaps around the welding additions to hold grease and provide better lubrication.

While doing some of these wishbones as a result of concerns about wandering in the steering, I have come to the understanding that a car with a wishbone 'issue' also has wear issues in and around the wishbone pivot area up inside the bell housing.

The top part of the boss in the bell housing is originally cast with a 2 degree draft angle for mold release. Because of that, the top of it is spot faced flat to accept the bottom of the wishbone pivot bolts. I have ALWAYS found that this flat area has been worn and ob-longed in most instances.

In addition to that I have found (11) different drawings in the archives for that wishbone pivot bolt and among them are at least (4) different dimensions for the depth of the groove in the top of them.

To correct for this steering issue I made a fixture for holding the bell housing upside down and inserted a back spot facing tool to re-cut the spot face. This makes the spot face deeper, and I go deep enough so that I can insert a hardened steel sleeve. Then it is equally important to check to make sure the grooves are the same depth in the top of the bolts.

It has been my experience that re-doing the wishbone alone will not correct the entire steering problem.

Just a thought!

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

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Thanks Will. In retrospect, I think you and I have had this discussion too. I, like you, share the same concerns. Currently, we are also welding up the ball, grinding it back to size, and are using a brass bushing that was bored to 1.500" as a gauge.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

that's great stuff, Will. I also weld and dress the ball, but I was unaware of the bolt issues you bring up. That explains a lot about some steering problems that persist in spite of replacing everything else. Thank you for addressing this.

[hotrodalley]

Thanks, great info. After pulling the wishbone free from the bell housing I found that I had a combination of reproduction and original attaching pieces. I have a stamped bottom to replace the cast bottom piece that was installed. Hopefully this will improve the situation until i can find a nos wishbone or weld up my ball. Thanks for all the help