The Ford Barn

Chris H · 09-27-2015, 11:11 AM

Hi Guys,

I know this has been discussed before, and I am sorry to repeat it again, but I am getting ready to install my new shocks and I have a question regarding the installation of the grease seals on the shock balls. I have searched the site and what I have found is that "the offset goes up" on the shock linkage cylinders. The term "offset" is what is bothering me. Does this mean that the hole in the rubber seal goes on the upper side of each shock ball when installed, or is the hole on the bottom side of the ball when installed? Just to confuse me even more, I searched the various vendors, hoping for a little guidance and found this photo on Mac's web site. This seems to contradict what has been previously posted. Installing the shock links looks like it is going to be a real PIA, so I would really like to do it right the first time. Thanks, in advance for any help.

Chris

Tom Wesenberg · 09-27-2015, 02:23 PM

They go together just as the picture shows, so the lips of the metal and rubber cup around the tube. Turn the offset hole so it best covers the oblong hole in the tube.

J Franklin · 09-27-2015, 02:29 PM

The offset is the long side. see item 2.

offset
noun |ˈôfˌset, ˈäf-|
1 a consideration or amount that diminishes or balances the effect of a contrary one: an offset against taxable profits.
2 the amount or distance by which something is out of line: these wheels have an offset of four inches.

Dick Carne · 09-27-2015, 03:34 PM

Tubular shock links were probably not one of Ford's better ideas. They are troublesome to install on a good day. I found that it was best to try to install the links to the arms and perches first, and then manipulate the arm to fit the shock. I might also recommend using some heavy grease to help hold those internal "caps" that ride against the perch balls when putting these together - otherwise they will move around on you as a matter of routine. Finally, once the links have been fitted to the "balls" on the arms and perches, be sure to tighten these down and align your holes for the cotter pins. It is much easier to perform this function before the arms are attached to the shocks. Good luck, my friend.

Mitch//pa · 09-27-2015, 03:44 PM

this thread may help you out a little
http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread...ght=shock+link

the oblong hole goes down on both ends

Fullraceflathead · 09-27-2015, 03:46 PM

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The threaded cap on the end will be on top when installed on the car on all 4 corners.

pgerhardt · 09-27-2015, 06:06 PM

I used the tip given here on the bard to use grease the "glue" the internal pieces in place and mine went on with no problems.

Chris H · 09-27-2015, 09:18 PM

Thank you all for the advise and help.

Chris

Bikerider58 · 09-06-2017, 11:18 PM

How much free play in the:

Shock arm around the shock pivot.

Linkage

I assume things should be snug with no noticeable free movement. On my 30 some are tight, some are sloppy.

Tinbasher · 09-07-2017, 06:42 PM

I just went through this on my car. I found I couldn't get the pieces together. started to to some researcher and found that the metal tubes where almost 1/4" to long. After I cut the tubes down everything went together easily. So don't be afraid to trim the tubes if you find your's are to tall. If I did it again I would just measure up what I needed to get rid of and then use that measurement. That way everything will be a nice fit.

John Poole

Tom Wesenberg · 09-08-2017, 03:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tinbasher

I just went through this on my car. I found I couldn't get the pieces together. started to to some researcher and found that the metal tubes where almost 1/4" to long. After I cut the tubes down everything went together easily. So don't be afraid to trim the tubes if you find your's are to tall. If I did it again I would just measure up what I needed to get rid of and then use that measurement. That way everything will be a nice fit.

John Poole

John, do you mean the outside housing, or the spacer tube?
I assume you mean the spacer tube, but first thought of the housing tube.

Bikerider58 · 09-09-2017, 09:17 AM

For it to be loose, it would be a long outer housing.

If all parts are proper, my guess is wear of the brass ball seats or strung spring.

I was checking parts and saw the new teflon ball seats. No need to grease them.

Tinbasher · 09-10-2017, 10:01 AM

Yes the spacer tube. Thanks Tom

DTG · 06-02-2018, 04:30 PM

To go back to the original question. The offset (longer part of the grease seal) both point up(lower and upper seal), or go by the diagram from Macs, the lower seal the offset is up and the upper seal(shock ball) points down.

jw hash · 06-02-2018, 06:21 PM

if you look at the picture along with the original question. the picture is INCORRECT . the off set on both seals should be to the top. the picture shows one up and one down. I start off with the link in the horizontal position on the perch install the inner parts stand it up and push it on the shock arm then finish with the cup and plug.

09-27-2015, 02:23 PM	#2
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Shock Links They go together just as the picture shows, so the lips of the metal and rubber cup around the tube. Turn the offset hole so it best covers the oblong hole in the tube.

09-27-2015, 02:29 PM	#3
J Franklin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 6,373	Re: Shock Links The offset is the long side. see item 2. offset noun \|ˈôfˌset, ˈäf-\| 1 a consideration or amount that diminishes or balances the effect of a contrary one: an offset against taxable profits. 2 the amount or distance by which something is out of line: these wheels have an offset of four inches.

09-27-2015, 03:34 PM	#4
Dick Carne Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fayetteville, Georgia Posts: 472	Re: Shock Links Tubular shock links were probably not one of Ford's better ideas. They are troublesome to install on a good day. I found that it was best to try to install the links to the arms and perches first, and then manipulate the arm to fit the shock. I might also recommend using some heavy grease to help hold those internal "caps" that ride against the perch balls when putting these together - otherwise they will move around on you as a matter of routine. Finally, once the links have been fitted to the "balls" on the arms and perches, be sure to tighten these down and align your holes for the cotter pins. It is much easier to perform this function before the arms are attached to the shocks. Good luck, my friend.

09-27-2015, 03:44 PM	#5
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: Shock Links this thread may help you out a little http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread...ght=shock+link the oblong hole goes down on both ends

09-27-2015, 03:46 PM	#6
Fullraceflathead Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Chillicothe, Missouri Posts: 1,684	Re: Shock Links Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) The threaded cap on the end will be on top when installed on the car on all 4 corners. __________________ "If I asked people what they wanted they would have said faster horses." -Henry Ford "Primitive technology is not a design flaw" 1928 Ford Model A Roadster Pickup 1930 Gordon Smith Air Compressor 1941 Willy's Pickup 1960 Thunderbird-For Sale 1964 Buick Riviera 2x4 425 1965 Pontiac GTO, 455 Super Duty 2004 Dodge Ram SRT-10, V-10 Viper 1977 Charger Jet Boat,460 Ford,Jacuzzi Jet Front Engine Nostalgia Dragster,Supercharged 296 "Fullrace Flathead" Ford Engine Build up on DVD ask

09-27-2015, 09:18 PM	#8
Chris H Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Wood River, IL Posts: 119	Re: Shock Links Thank you all for the advise and help. Chris

09-06-2017, 11:18 PM	#9
Bikerider58 Member Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: SoCal Posts: 53	Re: Shock Links How much free play in the: Shock arm around the shock pivot. Linkage I assume things should be snug with no noticeable free movement. On my 30 some are tight, some are sloppy.

09-07-2017, 06:42 PM	#10
Tinbasher Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Innisfil, Ontario Canada Posts: 1,205	Re: Shock Links I just went through this on my car. I found I couldn't get the pieces together. started to to some researcher and found that the metal tubes where almost 1/4" to long. After I cut the tubes down everything went together easily. So don't be afraid to trim the tubes if you find your's are to tall. If I did it again I would just measure up what I needed to get rid of and then use that measurement. That way everything will be a nice fit. John Poole

09-09-2017, 09:17 AM	#12
Bikerider58 Member Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: SoCal Posts: 53	Re: Shock Links For it to be loose, it would be a long outer housing. If all parts are proper, my guess is wear of the brass ball seats or strung spring. I was checking parts and saw the new teflon ball seats. No need to grease them.

09-10-2017, 10:01 AM	#13
Tinbasher Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Innisfil, Ontario Canada Posts: 1,205	Re: Shock Links Yes the spacer tube. Thanks Tom

06-02-2018, 04:30 PM	#14
DTG Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2018 Posts: 1	Re: Shock Links To go back to the original question. The offset (longer part of the grease seal) both point up(lower and upper seal), or go by the diagram from Macs, the lower seal the offset is up and the upper seal(shock ball) points down.

06-02-2018, 06:21 PM	#15
jw hash Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Auburn Washington Posts: 2,662	Re: Shock Links if you look at the picture along with the original question. the picture is INCORRECT . the off set on both seals should be to the top. the picture shows one up and one down. I start off with the link in the horizontal position on the perch install the inner parts stand it up and push it on the shock arm then finish with the cup and plug.