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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 124
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So I’ve got a cluster voltage regulator like the one pictured on out ‘42 Ford. I have my +12v coming into the single terminal, and the dual terminals feed the gauge cluster. It’s powering three gauges total- the fuel and temp are in parallel and the oil pressure is on its own. When I turn the key on I get 12v on both terminals, then a second later it shuts off. It will only reset if I turn the key off. I’ve tried adjusting the screw in and out, no change at all to the voltage. I’ve tried reversing the leads and no change. I’ve tried grounding directly to the frame (was only grounded through the cluster before) and still no change. Any idea what is going on here? I opened up the regulator to check the internals and everything looks ok.
(Note- when I uploaded the picture I noticed that it says “ign” next to the double terminal. It appears I’ve had it hooked up backwards- could I have killed it doing so? Thanks in advance. ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: central nj
Posts: 734
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Im not sure that hooking the wires up wrong ruined it ,but I bought one for my merc comet from ebay for about twenty bucks ,and it failed right away. then I ordered the NOS type one for forty dollars and it worked.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 124
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Mine was $58 from the parts store. I wish there was a way to test it, I’m not even sure what parts are supposed to connect to what
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Phoenix,AZ
Posts: 1,417
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Here is an image of the diagram for hook up.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Detroit suburb, MI
Posts: 3,794
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I sounds like China is making everything now.
Sal |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 17,411
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Last edited by rotorwrench; 05-21-2018 at 08:54 AM. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: IN A GALAXIE FAR, FAR AWAY
Posts: 7,386
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Here is some TECH INFO- http://squarebirds.org/Electrical/CV...StateRetrofit/
__________________
***** "Last Sunday, I caught him makin' eyes at Idell Bushey durin' preachin'. And I know what they do up there in the hills when they say they're possum huntin'. They're just sittin' around the campfire, drinkin' hard cider, hittin' each other on the shoulder and hollerin' 'flinch!'." ― Charlene Darling (Daughter of Briscoe Darling) |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,605
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Wow! That is excellent info. Thanks.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 124
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Thanks for the info guys. I was kind of in disbelief that it was toast, but I actually had a 7805 voltage regulator at home (I build guitar electronics) so I wired it up and mounted the chip to the inside of broken regulator’s case, connected the leads to the terminals, and so far it’s working ok. I’m not sure of the current draw the gauges have but if it doesn’t burn up I’ll count it as a win. While the original truck probably supplied 6-7v the gauges seems to be reading pretty accurately at 5v.
Thanks again for the advice! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 17,411
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The King Seeley gauges worked best on lower voltages. That' why they opted for the CVR (which wasn't actually a CVR at all). The 7805 or 7806 have both been used successfully. It seems one volt doesn't make much difference. I think King Seeley just didn't want them to operate at too high a temperature so they used less voltage for their systems. Most folks use one per instrument to keep reliability up. They should last longer than the instruments do.
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