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#1 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 91
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I've used my newly acquired '56 Crown Vic a couple of times in the dark recently and while the headlights etc work fine the dash lights dont! First time they flashed on and off when I rotated the switch but are now dead.
I can buy a replacement sw but removing the old one seems difficult. The repo workshop manual talks about pressing the spring release button....if that's the silver button in the centre of the knob its rigid and doesn't budge. I don't want to force anything in case something breaks and I can't easily see or get to the back of the sw without getting my head among the pedals. Anybody out there had to remove the light sw before? I found some old posts on the barn from 2013 which talked about locating the mysterious button to press but I just cant find any on my switch... Colin |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mn
Posts: 2,543
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The little spring loaded button is on the Body of
the switch. If you can get your fingers up on the switch, just feel around and you will feel the little spring loaded button. it only pushes in a small fraction of an inch. While holding the button in, pull the light knob out. The knob needs to come out before you can get the swicth out of the dash. .
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If mama ain't happy, ain't nobody happy. But if daddy ain't happy...RUN What I GOT DONE TODAY... I got the rear-end put in the recliner, and now I'm going to rest up & watch TV. ![]() |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Tampa fl
Posts: 136
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I live here in Florida also, close to the gulf, and periodically have the same problem. What's happening is the salt air accelerates corrosion on the coiled spring on the rheostat and you loose contact. The solution for me is to rotate the switch knob back and forth and the corrosion will clean off within a minute or two, no need to remove the switch. If you want a permanent fix, remove the switch and solder a wire between the two contact points at each end of the rheostat. I have a 56 f100.
Sam |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 91
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Great Idea Sam as I don't need to dim the panel lights..just get them working!
Thanks again Colin |
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#5 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Abq, NM
Posts: 3,725
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![]() Quote:
Here's a photo of the terminal side of a ('57) headlight switch, the mystery release button is outlined with a yellow circle. With all the wires in the way it may take just a moment to find... . Last edited by dmsfrr; 06-03-2017 at 10:19 AM. Reason: add '55 light switch photo |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Tampa fl
Posts: 136
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: West Hempstead, New York
Posts: 171
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Of course, unless something is converted, 1955 and 1956 are VERY< VERY different --- because 1955 is -- 6 VOLT -- and 1956 is -- 12 VOLT --.....
If you want an N.O.S. U.S.A. made switch -- and possible, even a N.O.S. FOMOCO Head Light Switch (I might have 1 last FOMOCo -- have to look) --- Call me -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935.... New York..... ![]() ![]() |
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#8 |
Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Moorpark, CA
Posts: 72
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I have had some success with spraying rheostat and contact with WD-40 and turn the dimmer back and forth a few times. This was done without removing switch - Bob
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Tampa fl
Posts: 136
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Colin, did you ever get your headlight switch problem solved?
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Granite City, Illinois
Posts: 3,008
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Ummm...I seem to recall that it is necessary to pull the knob out to the parking light on position (first notch) before you can press the button down. IT WILL NOT PUSH DOWN UNLESS SWITCH KNOB IS IN PARK LIGHT POSITION).
I don't think the switch needs to be replaced. The problem is probably in that white porcelain round thing. That is the dimmer. It can be pulled out after the switch is removed. Clean the spring wound around the back of the dimmer AND clean the tab that it comes in contact with. After the corrosion is gone the interior lights should work unless the fuse on the end of the headlight switch is blown. Check it first before you do anything. |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: West Hempstead, New York
Posts: 171
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Colin never called me -- and never responded to you, who asked --
so it is all for "conjecture", I suppose............. |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: West Hempstead, New York
Posts: 171
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Maybe it is too dark in the woods where he wound up,
and doesn't have head lights to see!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ![]() |
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#13 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 64
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I was able to get my finger up there, press the button and pull the knob out! What is the next step to remove the whole switch body from the dash? I need to clean all terminals as most of the dash lights don't work. Thanks very much.
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#14 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Abq, NM
Posts: 3,725
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![]() Quote:
Note any letter designations on the switch terminals and label the wires the same before removing them. Oxidation / bad connections or burned out bulbs that don't get replaced cuz they're harder to get to. The center contact at the base of the bulbs and the matching contact inside it's socket can be temperamental with age and humidity. . Last edited by dmsfrr; 01-28-2018 at 02:42 PM. |
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#15 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 64
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Thanks! I had to make a little custom tool to unscrew the bezel piece and it came out.
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