1956 ford steering float

[nix1934]

Just finished a 56 vic with 351w and AOD with Borgeson conversion and new rod ends, ball joints, bushings etc. and the float is scary. Aligned twice and all is tight and right..Anyone out there have this problem?

[paul2748]

When you say float, is it up and down movement? How about the shocks? Did you put them back on?

[dmsfrr]

You may need an old-school alignment guy who is willing to adjust/experiment to counteract the problem, not just set it by-the-book.
Some car owners find that alignment specs other than stock work better, especially with radial and wider/larger tires.

.

[nascardave]

It would help to be a little more descriptive on the terminology Floating. Do you mean car to be uncontrollable? wondering from side to side on highway? All these things would help. Please explain what new parts you have installed, other than tie rods and motor, if any.

[Daves55Sedan]

If you are using radial tires you can't go by the book. My understanding is that the Caster/camber adjustment is opposite of what is called for in the original specs if you have Radials, but then after re-adjusting, you also need to redo the "toe-in" adjustments.
And if you are not doing your own adjustments, you can't just drop it off at a shop because they will probably just go by the original specs. You need to gain knowledge of exactly what is required and tell them what the adjustment parameters would be on the caster/camber.
There's lots of people in this forum who probably know the measurements in degrees for radial tires right off the top o their heads.

[JeffB2]

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Maybe call Dave here and get one of his sway bars I think they are 1 1/8" http://www.dropnstop.com/home.html Guys in my 1952-59 Ford Group have posted very positive results after installing.

[40cpe]

I have a '55 with a saginaw 605 integral box. It was built /installed by someone else and everything was new in the steering except the idler arm and it had slack in it. It drove terrible until I replaced the idler. I also put spacers in the pump relief valve to lower the pump pressure. It is much better, but I plan to have 4 or 5 degrees of caster put in it.

The problem now is I can't feel either side of neutral in the steering on the highway, like there is too much assist in the steering. Normally you would feel a little resistance in the steering when changing from the straight-ahead position. If I get it going straight and hold the wheel steady, it runs true but it feels like it needs castor to track straight on its own.

I hope someone can give the changes from stock settings to compensate for radials and integral power steering.

[KULTULZ]

Adding a power box and replacing the original P/S on an early FORD should not change front end geometry.

What does change is the use of radial tires.

As said previously, you cannot MIDASIZE here. You need to find a quality knowledgeable shop or high performance shop.
______________________________________

STEERING TROUBLESHOOTING

Power Steering Pressure

GM power steering pumps will produce up to 1,500 PSI. We recommend 1,200 PSI for steering box applications and 800–900 PSI for Mustang rack & pinions. If a pump is generating too much pressure for the rack or box you are using, the steering will be over assisted resulting in twitchy steering at speed.

This can be corrected by adjusting the pumps internal pressure valve. To properly adjust this pressure order part #899001-Pressure Reducing Kit.

Road Wander:

Vehicle wanders left/right without any definite input from the steering wheel requiring constant small correction to drive straight.

• Low or unequal tire pressure.
• Steering linkage from column to box or rack loose or worn
• Front-end alignment out of specification. (Inadequate positive Caster)
• Steering box or rack worn or out of adjustment
• Steering tie rod ends worn or loose

No Recovery or Return to Center:

Vehicle fails to return to center after a turn or requires steering input to return to center.

• Binding of steering linkage or components
• Front-end alignment out of specification. (Inadequate positive Caster)
• Steering box or rack improperly adjusted.

Over-steering / Darting:

Vehicle over steers and is overly sensitive to all steering wheel input requiring constant correction.

• Excessive P/S pump pressure / mismatched components.
• Steering linkage from column to box or rack loose or worn
• Steering box or rack worn or out of adjustment

Lost motion at steering wheel:

Excessive free play felt in the steering wheel before the wheels begin to turn.

• Steering linkage from column to box or rack loose or worn
• Steering box or rack worn or out of adjustment
• Steering tie rod ends worn or loose
• Steering gear loose on frame

High Steering Effort in both directions:

An abnormal amount of force is required to turn the wheels in both directions.

• Low tire pressure
• Low P/S fluid level
• Insufficient P/S pump pressure and flow
• Excessive P/S fluid temperature
• Binding of steering linkage or components

Intermittent / Loss of power steering

After servicing the P/S system you experience either a loss of power steering or intermittent assist.

• Low P/S fluid level
• P/S Belt broken or slipping
• Air trapped in the P/S system
• Dirt or contaminants trapped in the P/S pump bypass valve

SOURCE- http://borgeson.com/Images/100th_Catalog.pdf


Changing To Radial Tires-

Most Factory Settings
(bias ply tires)
0.5 Negative Camber
0.5 To 1.0 Positive Caster
0.24 Toe-In

Good Street Performance Settings
(radial tires)
0.5 Negative Camber
3.5 TO 4.5 Positive Caster
0.10 Toe-In

SOURCE- http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/cha...gnment-basics/

[bobss396]

I agree that the pressure can cause the loss of road-feel. This is probably what the OP is experiencing.

[40cpe]

I put the shim kit in my pump. I put so many shims in that it had no assist at idle and it was still too "light" at road speeds. I took out just enough shim to give assist at idle. I have a 605 box, though, not a Borgeson.

[KULTULZ]

Pump output pressure is also going to vary with type pump used, the EATON, THOMPSON, CII or SAGINAW.

[KULTULZ]

The below notation is included in the instruction sheet-

It is recommended to get a complete alignment. We recommend increasing caster to 3-4 degrees positive.

Borgeson Universal Co., Inc.

9 Krieger Dr. Travelers Rest, SC 29690

www.borgeson.co

Now what I am wondering when retro-fitting a SAGINAW link style OEM PS car, do they say anywhere the steering linkage must be converted to MAUAL STEERING linkage?

INSTRUCTION SHEET - http://borgeson.com/instructions/800115.pdf


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