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12-31-2017, 05:22 PM | #1 |
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Clam shell question
The finger on the upper shell half is right on the frame cross member. It is the first time I have actually seen this shell version on a car, so I don't know what proximity it should be from that frame section. Could this be indicative of frame sag? The rear engine mounts are stock and all the sheet metal gaps look good.
Last edited by Great Lakes Greg; 12-31-2017 at 05:24 PM. Reason: addition |
12-31-2017, 05:43 PM | #2 |
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Re: Clam shell question
That is one of the early clam shells. As is your frame. Put a piece of rubber innertube under it, if you wish. Other then that, it looks ok to me.
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12-31-2017, 05:54 PM | #3 |
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Re: Clam shell question
RG&JS page 4-4 & 4-15 Revised 2011
Beginning of production through December 1927 Both the upper and lower caps were forgings. There were two types: Type 1 - The upper cap had a safety lug with a raised rib going up the center of the lug. The lower cap had a "T" shaped raised area. Type 2 - The upper cap had a welded on safety lug with no raised rib. The lower cap had a "D" shaped raised area where the safety lug was not welded on.
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12-31-2017, 05:55 PM | #4 | |
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Re: Clam shell question
Quote:
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12-31-2017, 06:34 PM | #5 |
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Re: Clam shell question
If the safety finger is actually hitting the frame, I would check the front engine mount to see that it is in the correct position. Look through the crank hole and see that it is perfectly aligned with the crank nut.
But it looks like you have other issues that should be addressed. Is that a hole in your bell housing? If you change it (there are plenty available) be sure that you get the correct one for your car. Your car, if still original, would have a multi-disk clutch. Looking at the transmission inspection plate, your car may have been converted to the later style clutch. Your emergency brake rod is not connected. And your stop light switch ls not connected. So leads me to believe you were into other issues or doing some winter maintenance when your attention was drawn to the safety tab. Last edited by GRutter; 12-31-2017 at 06:35 PM. Reason: spelling error |
12-31-2017, 11:03 PM | #6 |
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Re: Clam shell question
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01-01-2018, 01:06 AM | #7 | |
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Re: Clam shell question
Quote:
Sharp observation, if the bolt is missing, is there is a shim missing that would maintain correct alignment?
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01-01-2018, 01:46 AM | #8 |
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Re: Clam shell question
My 28 has at least a 1/4" gap, and more likely about 3/8" from the hook to the frame crossmember.
If you install the correct length battery cables, that ground strap looks correct for a Studebaker from about 1950. |
01-01-2018, 10:36 AM | #9 |
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Re: Clam shell question
You might want to review this article also on "clamshells":
http://www.plucks329s.org/studies/studies_ujoint.html Pluck |
01-01-2018, 10:57 AM | #10 | |
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Re: Clam shell question
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It is Type 3 that Greg has...only used from Mid-October 1928 thru Mid March 1929. Also see the June 1929 Service Bulletins for more information. Pluck |
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01-01-2018, 11:06 AM | #11 |
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Re: Clam shell question
The Service Bulletins say there should be at least 1/16" gap between the frame
and the lug. Bob |
01-01-2018, 12:58 PM | #12 |
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Re: Clam shell question
Okay, thanks fellers. The bolt isn't missing on the throttle bracket, it's just an illusion. I replaced the clutch so some things are not hooked up yet in the photo. There are a number of things that bother me in the picture, including the incorrect cables and routing, but it isn't my car, so it is what it is.
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