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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sevierville, Tenn.
Posts: 391
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Two 94's on my 276 incher on what I call the Eddie Meyer high rise intake. The motor has restart problems and yesterday started missing badly. When I pulled the first plug the problem was obvious. The plugs were all very black and sooty.
The carbs were rebuilt by a highly regarded 94 guy and run fine with no leaks when running. They both have 5.5 power valves if I remember correctly, but I'm still getting a fuel dump somewhere. My though is that since the two carbs are so close together and share a common plenum relatively high up, would a single power valve suffice? The options are smaller power valves in both, stop trying to band aid together old 94's and pony up for some 97's, or dump multiple carbs altogether for a single small Edelbrock 4 bbl. ![]() |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5,187
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Beside the power valves what is the size of the mains? Were these carbs rebuilt with the intention that both were to be run on a dual manifold? What is your fuel pressure, it should be about 2 to 2.5 maybe up to 3. If you disassemble the tops from both carbs and fill the float bowl to a measured level, then let it sit for about an hour or two is the fuel level the same or does it drop? Some of the early EM intakes used a heating system to help vaporize fuel does your manifold have just two holes for the carb. attachment or is there an additional smaller hole? IMO Charlie Schwendler is the 94 guy for rebuilding he knows what modifications to make for dual 94 carbs. Give him a call.
Last edited by Terry,OH; 11-03-2017 at 06:52 AM. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sevierville, Tenn.
Posts: 391
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Carbs were built as a pair with specs for the engine by a very reputable builder. My fuel pressure is set at 2 and doesn't seem to be an issue. The intake is an Eddie Meyers repop. Main size I don't know but may disassemble the carbs today if I have time.
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#4 |
Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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I would start by contacting the rebuilder.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,638
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^^ I wish we had a "Like" button like on the "H.A.M.B.".
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
Posts: 915
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#7 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 3,019
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cuz,
If I built the 94's the PV's would be eliminated unless I was , in no uncertain terms, told to install PV's. I would be comfortable for any of my 2x2 94 customers to express their impressions of 2x2 carbs I've done for them, 90 % with PV's eliminated. For your motor I'd use #50 jets to start with no PV's. You'll be a tad rich on the lower end and a tad lean on the upper end ( above 85 to 90mph ). Your motor will be ecstatic however in all normal driving ranges. I'm not sure why the modern 'window ' style power valves are pita's , but I've found them to be so. The 'back in the day' low # power valves with the .040 dia outlet orifices are not available period. The other issue is the diaphragm material....is it happy in an alcohol laced fuel environment. Where ever Daytona Parts get their power valves I can say these are the only ones I've found to be consistantly reliable. They however are only available in 5.5 and 7.5 in'hg values. Having dragged everyone thru all this I will mention that even Daytona Parts PV's must be verified as to the actual in/hg. I'm now donning my bullet proof vest ! Charlie ny |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sevierville, Tenn.
Posts: 391
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No need for the vest, no bullets aimed at you or anyone else. Yes, you built the carbs and no, I never opened them up. I put them on, adjusted the idle, and off it went after a world of problems with the 94's from the first builder. They seemed to work so well I had you build me a second set though those haven't been fired up yet.
I've been chasing a problem where the car will start up, run fine, then not restart for several hours. At first I thought this was electrical and that I had this cured. I replaced the coil and lead wire, but now think it might be in the distributor. The distributor was set up by another reputable vendor. I'm not pointing the muzzle at anybody, these are just the kind of puzzles that are one of the "joys" of puttering around with decades old equipment. I had already rerouted the fuel lines as my first guess was a vapor lock. I run non-ethanol fuel only and believe that ethanol fuel is either the work of the devil or crooked politicians. I'm not sure who's worse. When the car started missing badly yesterday I immediately pulled a plug; all black and sooty. I sent you the specs on the engine when you built the carbs so assumed you have jetted it properly. These carbs were done probably three or so years ago and the car has almost no miles on it since due to it's unreliability plus other projects interceding. |
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#9 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 3,019
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cuz,
Pull the air horns and separate the bowls from the bases. I'm guessing the carbs do not have power valves..........please correct me if this is not so.......... fill the bowls 1/2 way with gas and set each on it's base and cover them up. In the morning gingerly remove the bowls from the bases and see if you have a leak past the PV into/onto the base. The saga will continue, I promise, until we are pain free and able to continue our daily activities. Charlie ny |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sevierville, Tenn.
Posts: 391
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Will do. In route now.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Marana Arizona
Posts: 1,829
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Running dual 94's and on Charlies advise blocked off the power valves. Look closely as the PV plugs look like a PV at first glance.
My truck run's great just as Charlie ny said it would. |
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