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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Cincinnati OH
Posts: 422
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I have a 31' Slant Town Sedan.
Since I have had it, almost a year now, three of the doors require you to slam them really hard to get them to latch. I have tried them with and without the door bumpers. The problem is on both the front and rear doors. I have moved the strikers out from the cabin as far as they will move out and the doors still don't want to catch that back part of the 2 step striker. I didn't want to file the back of them yet. Suggestions/Opinions?
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1931 Murray Town Sedan. Black body with Apple Green pin stripe. 1923 Model T Touring with electric start. Low radiator Cincinnati, Ohio |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South East NJ
Posts: 3,398
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For all the slants they changed over to the metal insert dovetails with a spring.
They need to be properly rebuilt and today you can get all the parts (not so when I pieced mind together). The inserts must be able to move with moderate finger pressure all the way back. Worn or the incorrect reproduction parts will not do this. The reproduction springs make it so the dovetails barely move. This will make it hard to shut the door. I suggest you check out how these function on your car. Two different people made reproduction dovetail parts. Both used too strong a spring. A&L makes the better parts and was using the wrong springs. I warned them and when the owner was doing his own car he found the doors impossible to close he remembered someone telling him that was a problem. He changed springs and they started working. A&L is where you want to get those parts. As an aside, do the outside door handles droop? If you go to my website link below you will find may write up on rebuilding the latches. Hope this leads you down a better path. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,425
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I have one front door that takes more pressure to close like yours. Some of the repro strikers don't fit and may need filing. Also, if the latch (projection) on the door is worn down, the door may not grab the striker properly. One can temporarily remove the dovetail guide and see how the striker and latch engage by carefully pushing and holding in the door. Also, check body bolts if snug. I use Door Ease stick lube on the metal parts.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Auburn Washington
Posts: 2,662
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try removing your male dove tail from your doors, and see if they latch right. a lot of the venders out there are selling the WRONG female dove tails, on all slant window bodies the female dove tails have to have a groove in them or they will NOT work. Bratton`s sells the correct one for the slant windows part # 30970 I like to use the original spring.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Cincinnati OH
Posts: 422
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Ok, I took the male dovetails off a couple of the doors and they close the way they should.
So how do I rebuild the female dovetails? I bought this: https://www.brattons.com/30-31-slant...umper-set.html There are no instructions on how to change anything out. I can't even find a diagram of how things work on the female dovetail. Anyone have any diagrams? Also, do I need to buy new male dovetails, or can I use the ones I have.
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1931 Murray Town Sedan. Black body with Apple Green pin stripe. 1923 Model T Touring with electric start. Low radiator Cincinnati, Ohio |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Auburn Washington
Posts: 2,662
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