replacing head studs

[Brendan]

now that i got the head off, what is the best way to remove the head studs? what are your thoughts?

[MikeK]

PATIENCE! Many threads on this topic.

Me: penetrating oil. tap all around with small hammer, repeat many times, try back and forth with small pipe wrench or double nut, have a beer, repeat, repeat several days.

If still stubborn, heat stud to just red about 1" above block, as soon as red goes away squirt your fav snake oil, like 50/50 ATV & acetone, then repeat everything again. Some people use a birthday candle (paraffin) melted at the hot base instead of penetrating fluid, I have not personally tried it, didn't need to.

Rule of thumb:
Number of broken off studs requiring drilling is inversely proportional to PATIENCE.

[daveymc29]

You can buy a stud remover from your local hardware store and use that. They work better than a pipe wrench or vice grips but I have also done them with both. Also double nutting works, You will probably be using new studs so the removal tools don't make a lot of difference, The installation tools are more important. I start them by hand, double nut them and just bottom them, not any real force used here, Then install the gasket and head.

[Tom Wesenberg]

A single pipe wrench puts a lot of side pressure on the stud, so I like to use two of them opposite each other, or any tool that puts all the force into turning torque, rather than adding side pressure, which may help snap a weak stud.

BTW, I see I posted to your other thread on head removal the same thing Mike posted here.

[Mark in MT]

I find that engines that have not been apart in decades are the ones that pose troubles. On these, 1/3 of the studs come out easily, 1/3 extract with penetrant and 1 day soak, rest need heat, soaking and more time. Some will break off no matter what you do, had some snap off flush at the lightest touch of the wrench. I use a stud installer/remover and a shortish flex handle. My elbow is calibrated to 80% of twist off torque and stop there and leave it for the next round. I don't always have time to wait for long term soaking, so a Bridgeport solves many problems.

[BillLee/Chandler, TX]

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I had four studs that were rusted in. I built a small dam around each with some modeling clay and then kept a puddle of penetrating oil inside the dam around each stud. After a couple of days, I double-nutted them and out they came.

I have cleaned the holes with a thread chaser and will be installing new high-strength studs later today when the engine goes back together.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Appears everybody has to break at least one (1) stud to learn how not to replace studs.

For the stubborn ones, found out years ago that the Reply #6 recommendation, with a leak proof dam works better for "overnight" soaking as opposed to just applying liquids to tops of blocks.

Often recommended standard False "overnight" stud soaking, (with a top of block thin penetrant application without a dam), will "always" immediately" evaporate before you get your pajamas on to go to bed.

Best to also get a sharp pointed object to remove possible old former head gasket sealants embedded in the tiny tapped crevices around each stud; and afterwards, place a nut on tops of studs and semi-gently tap tops of studs sideways in all directions before and after soaking for several days.

The above is just Phase One (I).

Phase Two (II) & (III) are used when Phase (I) fails.

[Drive Shaft Dave]

Yes, heat is your friend in a case like this.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Thanks to Vince for a link to his information.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/studremovaltools.htm

[Bruce Adams]

I did not notice where anyone mentioned putting one nut on top of another as a stopper, tighten and turn the bottom one. MAaybe its assumed everyone knows that is how its done so it was not mentioned.

Sorry, I re-read and someone mentioned "Double Nutting" which is a good name for the technique.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Every reply above is helpful and noteworthy.

For well rusted, threaded head studs, please remember that torque stress applied when trying to unscrew a head stud is still torque stress regardless of what tool or method is used to unscrew a head stud.

If the rusty, threaded lower area between the threaded stud and the threaded block offers enough frictional resistance, the studs will break no matter what is used to try to turn and unscrew the stud.

For successful unscrewing, breaking the rusted, tightly bonded joint between the stud and threaded block is most important.

After stud removal by any method, always a good idea to reinstall head studs with lots of anti-seize on block threads, stud treads, shanks of studs, and insides of stud holes in head.

Even if living in an arid dry region, water may get to studs from the water jacket or from a leaking head gasket making the next stud removal difficult, and making the next head removal very difficult.

[RonC]

Why are you replacing them? Are you installing a high compression head? Rebuilding the engine? if just swapping out a stock head-gasket and if the threads look ok I would just leave them. Without proper tools it could end up being more work then it's worth.

[Brendan]

Originally Posted by RonC

Why are you replacing them? Are you installing a high compression head? Rebuilding the engine? if just swapping out a stock head-gasket and if the threads look ok I would just leave them. Without proper tools it could end up being more work then it's worth.

i think that is what i am gonna do, leave well enough alone!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Good move. I don't replace the studs unless they have severe rust problems, such as rust pits.

[denniskliesen]

You really don't want to remove them as RonC mentioned unless you are installing a high compression head or they are badly corroded. Mine were corroded so bad that I had to replace them. Extracting 9 yes NINE broken studs from a Model A block in the frame is no party.

[zzlegend]

If it means anything, I just installed a 6.1 head and I did not replace my studs. They looked fine and were not rusty so I left them. Glad I did. No problems either. Jus my 2 1/2 cents.

[Brendan]

I prayed to the Flathead Gods, used some heat to the studs and penetrating oil, and some patients. i got them all out! did not brake one! so my question is can i run a tap into the threads for the studs? and could i put never seize on the new studs?

[Brendan]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Good move. I don't replace the studs unless they have severe rust problems, such as rust pits.

the more i looked at them, they where no good!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Don't run a tap in to clean threads.
Use a bolt with some notches sawed into the end for cleaning the threads.
Use a Dremel to grind the notches, or a hacksaw to cut them in.

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Don't run a tap in to clean threads.
Use a bolt with some notches sawed into the end for cleaning the threads.
Use a Dremel to grind the notches, or a hacksaw to cut them in.

I aree 100% The taps that most people by are over size for those threads.
There are different class threads. The head studs are a tighter fit than a hard ware tap.