removing the rear drums

[RonFX]

How do you go about removing the rear drums on a 28 Tudor? Snyder's sell a puller that is a 2 piece design, has anyone tried that and what was the results?
The car had new wheel cylinders installed all around approx 10 years ago but they rusted up and filled with gunk from moisture in the fluid / lines. The rear drums were pulled then, so hopefully they won't be that difficult to remove.
Thanks, Ron 614 309 1513

[Beauford]

JUst make sure you adjust brakes all the way in
And should pull off.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Search for my sure fire CHEEP method, using the CHEEP axle knocker nut.
Bill W.

[100IH]

There are 2 types of pullers used. And yes, everyone has one of them. The one you describe is like the original kind of puller used by the dealers when the cars were new. The other kind of puller, has 3 legs that pull on the studs to pull the hub drum the axle. Chrysler cars also used tapered axles similar to Ford. Model T cars through to 1948 used the taper to hold the hub firmly to the axle. May I suggest that you learn to use the "advance search" feature here. You will find many long, detailed threads on this subject. The third method of removing the rear hub is one that is responsible for ruining axles that are very expensive and a lot of work to replace. I won't describe that method. You learn will more, reading the past threads in less time than it took you to type in the above question. Both skills are part of the basics that lie ahead for you. Respectfully yours, 100IH.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I "cut" my teeth, removeing old Chrysler drums. NEVER saw one come loose & destroy itself.
Bill W.

[V4F]

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I have 2 that are hung up on the E brake shoes . I believe they are rusted to the drum . any ideas greatly appreciated ............... steve

[captndan]

Originally Posted by V4F

I have 2 that are hung up on the E brake shoes . I believe they are rusted to the drum . any ideas greatly appreciated ............... steve

You can get a three foot puller from most parts places for nothing. BUT you will have to make adapters out of 3/8 all thread , nuts, and washers. Then it does work well.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I have a Snap On 3 jaw puller that works on Model A's, but the safest to use is the original KR Wilson style that grabs the collar of the hub. Be sure to have the nut even with the end of the axle threads, so the bolt in the puller doesn't damage the axle threads.

[SeaSlugs]

Dont whack the drum either - it will distort... Best to pull them.

[CarlG]

The best hub puller is made by Mitchell. It is also sold by Snyder's (& probably others):

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/universal-hub-puller

[Mitch//pa]

The very best hub puller is in post #10 on this thread..
http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread...ght=Hub+puller

It can be used for many other jobs that require pulling...

[Tom K.]

Where are you located. I used the Snyder's puller on the rear of my 29 Tudor. It worked great.

[old31]

I just received this puller from Snyders and used it for the first time a few days a go and it worked great. I picked up a 1 1/2 inch socket to use on my impact wrench to fit the bolt that it uses.

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/economy-hub-puller

[JohnLaVoy]

Because there are two styles of rear brake hubs you need to make sure the puller you get will do both. Mitchell Mfg makes one that works well on either style. There are some made the do the later version of the hub but not the early. there are far more later hubs and this will cover those cars well. I have seen cars with both styles so you need to check what you have and get the appropriate tool. KR Wilson made two version when the Model A was new to cover the changes.