The Ford Barn

Chris Haynes · 02-26-2017, 05:58 PM

Who has run a Eubanks & Drake crankshaft? I just got a NOS crank from this now defunct maker. Pro's and Con's?

MikeK · 02-26-2017, 07:04 PM

Eubanks and Drake made cast nodular (ductile) iron cranks for A's and I think B's several years ago. I haven't heard anything about Eubanks and Drake since about 2006. Volume 1 issue 2 of Model A Times had a rudimentary story about them.

If I could get my hands on one, I'd take a cast nodular iron crank for a banger any day over a forged! They are plenty strong, many high power big blocks from various OEM makers used them as production parts as they proved both superior and cheaper than forged. The two big advantages: 1) They are stiffer (flex less) than a forging and due to the grain structure they readily dampen shock waves, converting the energy internally into heat. 2) Superior bearing surface oil retention and oil drag, pluses with both inserts or cast babbitt bearings. Disadvantage: There is a limit, perhaps 250 hp, on a crank with A sized journals. That's well beyond my limit!

I have not run one, but I think you have a good crank. As with any unknown crank, careful checking of dimensions, run-out, and indexing is paramount before use.

If a new one were to be cast with 80+% counter-weighting it would certainly be a welcome 'buzz killer' for those nasty I-4 second order harmonics and would permit an extremely light flywheel, taking loading off the rear flange.

hardtimes · 02-26-2017, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Haynes

Who has run a Eubanks & Drake crankshaft? I just got a NOS crank from this now defunct maker. Pro's and Con's?

Are you talking B/C (integral wts. and drilled?).

I don't know anything about 'Drake', but a drilled C new crank that was made by Dan Eubanks (#1 I was told) resides in my Russian B (via Joe Mac) block/engine...since about 2002. I'd have to check records to be sure of year, as memory is not good

. This crank has Eubanks name and ser # stamped on it.

I have a picture with Dan at the Turlock swap meet back when he showed up with the crank for sale. It then went to a crankshaft specialty guy...who checked it out and declared it 'perfect'

. It then went to Joe Sivils A/B builder in Turlock. This Eubanks crank now has a whopping 2500 mi on it and works perfectly and with modern seals ..still does not leak a drop !

If 'things' ever straighten out in life, this Russian B will be headed back to Joe (Turlock) for more horse power and to add a special ('like hens tooth')head

!

BTW..As MikeK says, regarding the 'small' (A like rod)diam. throws on some cranks...I would not spend any money on that. I used to keep a file of pictures of broken #4 rod throw, if run hard.

Jim Brierley · 02-27-2017, 12:35 PM

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I have run 2 Eubanks cranks, 1 under my 4-port Riley and put over 9,000 miles on it, they are good. Dan has closed his shop doors, but quit making cranks some time ago because he had trouble finding a reliable grinder to finish them. I am running his steel rods in my blown Bonneville engine with good success. He quit making them for the same reason

02-26-2017, 07:04 PM	#2
MikeK Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Windy City Posts: 2,919	Re: Eubanks & Drake crankshaft Eubanks and Drake made cast nodular (ductile) iron cranks for A's and I think B's several years ago. I haven't heard anything about Eubanks and Drake since about 2006. Volume 1 issue 2 of Model A Times had a rudimentary story about them. If I could get my hands on one, I'd take a cast nodular iron crank for a banger any day over a forged! They are plenty strong, many high power big blocks from various OEM makers used them as production parts as they proved both superior and cheaper than forged. The two big advantages: 1) They are stiffer (flex less) than a forging and due to the grain structure they readily dampen shock waves, converting the energy internally into heat. 2) Superior bearing surface oil retention and oil drag, pluses with both inserts or cast babbitt bearings. Disadvantage: There is a limit, perhaps 250 hp, on a crank with A sized journals. That's well beyond my limit! I have not run one, but I think you have a good crank. As with any unknown crank, careful checking of dimensions, run-out, and indexing is paramount before use. If a new one were to be cast with 80+% counter-weighting it would certainly be a welcome 'buzz killer' for those nasty I-4 second order harmonics and would permit an extremely light flywheel, taking loading off the rear flange.

02-26-2017, 05:58 PM	#1
Chris Haynes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Camarillo, CA and Pine Grove, CA Posts: 2,962	Eubanks & Drake crankshaft Who has run a Eubanks & Drake crankshaft? I just got a NOS crank from this now defunct maker. Pro's and Con's? __________________ 1921 Runabout 1930 Tudor Early 1930 AA Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?

02-27-2017, 12:35 PM	#4
Jim Brierley Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 4,251	Re: Eubanks & Drake crankshaft Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I have run 2 Eubanks cranks, 1 under my 4-port Riley and put over 9,000 miles on it, they are good. Dan has closed his shop doors, but quit making cranks some time ago because he had trouble finding a reliable grinder to finish them. I am running his steel rods in my blown Bonneville engine with good success. He quit making them for the same reason