Finished overheat-proofing

[DaWizard]

I know, I know, I have been reading threads on proper radiator cleanliness, water pump impeller size and drilled, but I think I have brought my '28 Tudor up to todays standards.

Boiled out the radiator, heh, 88 years old, a must.

Since I wasn't thrilled with the stock water pump situation, decided to go electric.

Also not being thrilled with fans, went electric.

Below you will see pictures of what and how I did this and along with those pictures are 2 pictures of the temperatures taken at the front and rear of the head after the motor running and up to operating temp. more than ½ hour of idling and adjusting the temp the fan kicks in.

Also, I decided on Evan's Waterless Coolant filled until it just covers the bottom of the baffle.

I am sure someone will rip me for this abomination, ahh well, it will happen and I am thick skinned and we know about opinions....

I think it is worth it when you see that the front and rear reading are within 10° and the rear is running cooler sitting still in the driveway.

As soon as this weather breaks and I can get another coat of rubber on the roof, I will be one runnin fool, out and about each and every day.

So Cal, beware, another "A" saved from the rust heap and on the road!!

[Pmsqrd]

Love you are still running a powerhouse.

[Will Ziegler in LI NY]

Very interesting. Don't worry about others, it's your car you can do what you want!

What make and model is that electric pump?

[iverson]

nice neat installation!

[Jacksonlll]

Ok, where did you get your pump? That is exactly where the pump should be. A push through system. When you can run it, go a solid 45mph for 10 minutes. If it stays cool, you are all set.

[DaWizard]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Here is the pump.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/332053073627...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The only thing I couldn't really compensate for was the drain petcock location, so, with it closer to the front, I enlarged a hole that was already there, added a ¼" pipe soldered to it and sent it out that hole.

[The Master Cylinder]

Originally Posted by Pmsqrd

Love you are still running a powerhouse.

If I remember correctly Da said he has a 12v alternator in that case. I've seen an ad for 12v alternators that resemble the stock generators in a nearby club's monthly news letter.

[DaWizard]

Originally Posted by Pmsqrd

Love you are still running a powerhouse.

Yes, sneaky bastard that I am, there is a Denso 45amp self energizing alternator within the Powerhouse case, and the Cutout is shorted straight through, purely for looks.

WOW, someone sure thinks I stink. I looked and this was my first posting that actually gathered 3 stars, then someone musta voted it down to 2

[RUNNERBUN]

Originally Posted by DaWizard

WOW, someone sure thinks I stink. I looked and this was my first posting that actually gathered 3 stars, then someone musta voted it down to 2

It is obvious from previous posts that very few of us pay any attention to the star rating. Just Ignore Them

[Jacksonlll]

If that pump will come close to 55 GPM, or at least be rated that high, you are all set as long as it does not suck your radiator down through it. That will take care of a few plugged tubes. Let us know how she does.

[eagle]

I am curious as to the total current draw with fan running.

[C26Pinelake]

What have you accomplished above and beyond a normal Model A cooling system that is maintained and operating properly? Wayne

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by eagle

I am curious as to the total current draw with fan running.

I am to, at idle, with highbeams on, and brakes on, with wiper going(if electric), and horn. Me thinks better have a fire extinguisher handy...also wondering what happens under same electric load minus the fan but then the fan kicks on what it would spike to.

sure above scenario is worst case but if someone pulls out in front of you on a rainy night its all but possible. Last thing I would want is a fire, blown fuse, fried alternator etc.

[DaWizard]

Originally Posted by Jacksonlll

Ok, where did you get your pump? That is exactly where the pump should be. A push through system. When you can run it, go a solid 45mph for 10 minutes. If it stays cool, you are all set.

See, now I am wondering why you would need me to go at 45mph? Is it because at that speed the stock pump pushes way too much water through the radiator, possibly creating an over heating problem? Because I don't think this is going to be a So Cal "freeway" car, (you have no idea of the perils this brings up) there are only a few streets that a speed of 45 can be obtained, but I will do my best to run it as long and hard as I possibly can to insure that overheating is not going to be a problem. Also, if you would note, I am using Evan's Waterless Coolant, and in case you have done no research on this, it doesn't boil until 375°, at which point, I believe I will be replacing the motor if it boils over.

I believe that with this pump working at a constant speed, I will not be subject to boiling, cavitation, or any other problems caused by engine RPMs and water pump speed.

Originally Posted by eagle

I am curious as to the total current draw with fan running.

I was too, so with the engine idling and fan and pump running I checked my 0 to 30 amp meter and it read about 6 amps. Now, one thing I did notice, when the fan energizes, it draws considerable more, but the amount of time it takes to get it up to speed is not enough to cause concern.

Right now, I am tickled unbelievably pink.

Thanks for the interest.

[C26Pinelake]

Why would you build this concoction to end up with nothing more than a normal Model A system. Why not just fix the original system properly? Wayne

[Tom Wesenberg]

"I was too, so with the engine idling and fan and pump running I checked my 0 to 30 amp meter and it read about 6 amps. Now, one thing I did notice, when the fan energizes, it draws considerable more, but the amount of time it takes to get it up to speed is not enough to cause concern."

The ammeter is wired into the circuit to show ONLY the charge going into the battery, or coming out of the battery. I'm thinking the guys wanted to know how many amps the fan and pump draw together, so to find that number, just run both with the engine off, and read the draw on the ammeter. I don't know, but suspect it might be 30 amps or so.

[C26Pinelake]

5 x 5 stars and 8 x 1 star! An all time record I am sure! Wayne

[DaWizard]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

"I was too, so with the engine idling and fan and pump running I checked my 0 to 30 amp meter and it read about 6 amps. Now, one thing I did notice, when the fan energizes, it draws considerable more, but the amount of time it takes to get it up to speed is not enough to cause concern."

The ammeter is wired into the circuit to show ONLY the charge going into the battery, or coming out of the battery. I'm thinking the guys wanted to know how many amps the fan and pump draw together, so to find that number, just run both with the engine off, and read the draw on the ammeter. I don't know, but suspect it might be 30 amps or so.

No Tom, YOUR ammeter is wired into the circuit to show only what is flowing to battery. Mine is wired right off the ignition switch output and shows everything that is going on. See, I did the wiring on this car, and because it is nowhere near stock, I did what I wanted to do to show what I wanted to see. Now, I do run a Volt meter to see what is going to the battery, but the ammeter shows all the draw in the car.

[mike657894]

I gave you a five star rating to level it out. im keeping my cooling system original. But i think threads like this have as much merit as any other. some one will reproduce this set up im sure. I would worry less about top speed and more about a parade speed. And when I have had overheating(in my 78 chevy) it was in a drive through waiting for the mini van full of special orders in front of me. Or low on coolant or sticking thermostats.

[1931 flamingo]

Are you running a t/stat?? Did you evaporust or vinegar the block??
Paul in CT