The Ford Barn

Block · 01-01-2017, 08:02 PM

Chasing leaks on a 56/312. Any surprises/tips on replacing oil pump gasket? Biggest leak so far was back corner of passenger side valve cover. Used 2 gaskets and Indianhead shellac and it stopped. Checking everything before saying it is a rear main seal.

Thanks,

Block

Daves55Sedan · 01-02-2017, 02:53 AM

Don't forget to loosen up the large nut that holds the oil pickup tube to the oil pan and unscrew the nut that holds the pickup tube to the pump prior to pulling the oil pump down off the block. As you pull down, try to push the pickup tube forward and pull the pump back a little so the tube will pull out of the pump.
Be careful to pull out with the distributor shaft attached since these do not have a clip that holds the shaft to the distributor.
If any of the four bolts that hold the pump seem too easy when first loosening, it could be that the threads are stripped in the block from someone overtightening. If so, that can be fixed with drilling and tapping for a new threaded insert. DONT drill too deep. Only drill as deep as the depth of the new insert so it will bottom out on solid cast iron.
There is a round gasket that goes on the pump end of the pickup tube that should be replaced also while you have the pump off.

Daves55Sedan · 01-02-2017, 03:07 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I'm not so sure that shellac is a good idea. IMO, a worry free installation here would be to run a bead of Permatex "form-a-gasket" in the little recess all around the bottom of the valve cover. Then you press ONE gasket in the resess, then run a bead of Permatex all around the bottom of the cork gasket. Carefully put the cover on the head using care to align the two holes on top such that there is about an equal amount of space around the hole and the stud. Have the rubber bottomed washers sitting on the fender so that you can reach em while holding the cover with the other hand. Put the washers on the studs as quickly as you can so the cover doesn't slide.
I like to get the acorn nuts barely hand tight enough to press the permatex down flat, but not tight yet. Let the permatex set up dry before final tightening of the nuts.
This creates a real good seal.

01-01-2017, 08:02 PM	#1
Block Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2017 Posts: 4	Oil pump gasket Chasing leaks on a 56/312. Any surprises/tips on replacing oil pump gasket? Biggest leak so far was back corner of passenger side valve cover. Used 2 gaskets and Indianhead shellac and it stopped. Checking everything before saying it is a rear main seal. Thanks, Block

01-02-2017, 02:53 AM	#2
Daves55Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Granite City, Illinois Posts: 3,008	Re: Oil pump gasket Don't forget to loosen up the large nut that holds the oil pickup tube to the oil pan and unscrew the nut that holds the pickup tube to the pump prior to pulling the oil pump down off the block. As you pull down, try to push the pickup tube forward and pull the pump back a little so the tube will pull out of the pump. Be careful to pull out with the distributor shaft attached since these do not have a clip that holds the shaft to the distributor. If any of the four bolts that hold the pump seem too easy when first loosening, it could be that the threads are stripped in the block from someone overtightening. If so, that can be fixed with drilling and tapping for a new threaded insert. DONT drill too deep. Only drill as deep as the depth of the new insert so it will bottom out on solid cast iron. There is a round gasket that goes on the pump end of the pickup tube that should be replaced also while you have the pump off.

01-02-2017, 03:07 AM	#3
Daves55Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Granite City, Illinois Posts: 3,008	Re: Oil pump gasket Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I'm not so sure that shellac is a good idea. IMO, a worry free installation here would be to run a bead of Permatex "form-a-gasket" in the little recess all around the bottom of the valve cover. Then you press ONE gasket in the resess, then run a bead of Permatex all around the bottom of the cork gasket. Carefully put the cover on the head using care to align the two holes on top such that there is about an equal amount of space around the hole and the stud. Have the rubber bottomed washers sitting on the fender so that you can reach em while holding the cover with the other hand. Put the washers on the studs as quickly as you can so the cover doesn't slide. I like to get the acorn nuts barely hand tight enough to press the permatex down flat, but not tight yet. Let the permatex set up dry before final tightening of the nuts. This creates a real good seal.