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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: freeport il
Posts: 316
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I need to take the fan off to put on the correct brass packing nut and the thrust collar. I ordered the hammer it puller with the other parts. Not here yet, Just wondered if any one has any other ideas. I have seen hoods were the fan came apart and I sure don't want to hurt the fan or the shaft
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#2 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 2,975
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 9,360
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Screw that nut on the shaft half way then take a bolt and screw it into the nut
until it touches the end of the shaft. Now hold the fan near the pulley in one hand and with the other hand hit the bolt head with a hammer and the fan will pop off. Bob Yes what George said. Last edited by Bob C; 11-25-2016 at 03:38 PM. |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 3,532
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First put a sheet of card board over the radiator fins in front of the fan.
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#5 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan / Ontario border, Sarnia, Ontario. 50 miles from Detroit and 150 from Toronto.
Posts: 5,800
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: freeport il
Posts: 316
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Syracuse,NY
Posts: 264
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Replace the fan.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 710
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Yes, by all means, replace the fan.
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#9 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
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A new fan is a small price to pay compared to getting beheaded
Last edited by Mitch//pa; 11-25-2016 at 08:04 PM. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
Posts: 3,431
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That looks like an accident waiting to happen! The rust outside is inside also!
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sedro-Woolley, WA
Posts: 1,023
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Over the last 50+ years, I have mounted several NOS looking fan blades on my model A water pumps, only to find stress cracks in the blades a year or so later. I did loose one fan blade that not only destroyed my excellent '30 radiator and its water pump, but it also took the unlatched hood completely off the car too. The hood was ruined as was my clean underwear. I had my '30 model A rev'd out in second when a blade let loose with a loud boom. It was an ugly sight. The exploding noise was deafening. Fortunately, I didn't have a tow bill because this happened close to home. For years I refused to use Ford's two blade fans and instead I used the aftermarket four blade fans. Now I am a firm believer in installing the new aluminum fans. They look correct and work excellent. I also use their modern water pumps too. No more taking up on the old water pump packing.
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: freeport il
Posts: 316
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Its unanimous! I will order a alum fan! who sells the best one or are they all made by the same manufacturer? thank you all for your combined experience!
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#13 |
Senior Member
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Smart move. You can always clean it up then hang it as an original manufactured part.
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: freeport il
Posts: 316
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I put in my order for a new snyder"s alum fan thank you all
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Hebron, CT
Posts: 537
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From a technical standpoint the original fan is a sheetmetal weldment. After studying how it was made the people over at ford did a remarkable job of design and fabrication. However they didn't pay attention to how the fan operated mechanically in the engine and it's life exspectancy. In operation the the fan blades flex or bend and pulled outward as the speed of the engine changes. These conditions are not visible to the naked eye but over the years of operation this probably has occurred many billions of times. Welding two pieces of metal together produces tiny cracks in the areas around where the weld meets the metal. These are called microcracks and can grow larger if the welded area is subjected to mechanical stressing like pulling and bending. Continuously pulling and bending of the fan blades while in operation is the mechanism which causes the cracks to grow to the point where the metal joint fatigues or completely fails and breaks apart. Corrosion within the cracks also helps to speed the process along.
What amazes me is to see how long this part has survived while operating under the conditions it has been subjected to. A modern day analytical engineering analysis would rapidly indicate the life of this fan design is very limited. I highly recommend replacing the original fan with a one piece fan especially if you like to drive your A and do touring. |
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Belgistan (formerly known as Belgium)
Posts: 573
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ashby, Mass.
Posts: 250
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I'am glad Iverson made this post I did not know this about the weak fan blade.I will pick up
an aluminum fan next order. I had that happen on my T with a new radiator not fun. |
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: freeport il
Posts: 316
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I had no plans to replace the fan until all the good advice thanks guys! I am putting on a original funnel top radd and fan shroud that I got thanks to the ford barn and a brass packing nut who knows? maybe the original fan failed some time before my uncle got the car in 1951? and I keep everything I can original down to the nuts and bolts
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 8,044
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Good move replacing that fan. You'll never know how long the old one would have lasted but you can rest assured, it would have destroyed itself and who knows what else sometime soon.
When I bought my '29 Phaeton, it had an original fan fitted which I decided to replace before it took the decision out of my hands. Inspection once it was removed showed that cracks had been brazed up everywhere, even around the bottom of the vee in the pulley. I still shudder when I think of it.
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