The Ford Barn

Robert/Texas · 10-06-2016, 12:00 PM

I bought my ’28 roadster in 1988 and have never had a problem with the steering until recently. I did install teflon tie rod and drag link seats and a shortened pitman arm though. The steering box always leaked just enough to leave a little fluid on the frame but nothing on the floor. I always topped off the fluid when servicing the car. Over the years the leakage increased and the steering wheel play got to about 4 inches so I decided to fix it.
First I adjusted the end play per the instructions in the Les Andrew’s book and reduced that play to about 1/4 inch. After my first drive I saw that the box was dripping fluid out of the horn switch assembly so I decided to fix that. The retainer (c-clip) was real hard to get out and I had to use a break over bar to get the seal retainer nut off. When I got the nut off I saw that the felt seal was completely compressed/solidified. When I put everything back together with a new seal I found that I could not get the c-clip back in place. It needs about 1/16 inch more clearance on the horn/light rod to get it in.
I think the problem might be related to 1970’s repro parts. I have an early ’28 RPU and comparing the light switch escutcheon area on both cars, the gap between the escutcheon base and the steering wheel is 1/4 inch on the RPU and is 3/8 inch on the roadster. This just doesn’t look right to me on the roadster but it’s been this way since I bought the car. Also the wheel nut looks correct to me on the RPU but that same nut on the roadster is about three times as thick and has a much larger external diameter.
Any and all suggestions will be much appreciated and thank you in advance, Robert

Robert/Texas · 10-06-2016, 03:58 PM

I’m embarrassed. I think problem is the nut behind the wheel. It’s an extra thick nut that takes a 15/16 inch wrench and has been beaten so much that it’s hard to get a socket wrench on it. The nuts illustrated in the catalogues take a 5/8 inch wrench, thin and are slightly rounded at the top. I believe this is a clearance issue with the horn button escutcheon and replacing it should solve my problem.

Bob C · 10-06-2016, 04:09 PM

According to the Ford parts book the thread is 5/8"-18 The nut in 3/8" thick
and takes a 15/16" wrench.

Bob

Robert/Texas · 10-06-2016, 04:54 PM

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Thanks Bob C. My steering wheel nut measures just that but it is not rounded at the top like those pictured in the Snyder's and Bratton's catalogues. I think that this causes a clearance problem with the escutcheon and I could probably grind it to work. I'd rather wait and just order one from one of the vendors for 50 cents especially as the old one is so beaten up.

10-06-2016, 12:00 PM	#1
Robert/Texas Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Burton, Texas Posts: 742	Steering Box Problem I bought my ’28 roadster in 1988 and have never had a problem with the steering until recently. I did install teflon tie rod and drag link seats and a shortened pitman arm though. The steering box always leaked just enough to leave a little fluid on the frame but nothing on the floor. I always topped off the fluid when servicing the car. Over the years the leakage increased and the steering wheel play got to about 4 inches so I decided to fix it. First I adjusted the end play per the instructions in the Les Andrew’s book and reduced that play to about 1/4 inch. After my first drive I saw that the box was dripping fluid out of the horn switch assembly so I decided to fix that. The retainer (c-clip) was real hard to get out and I had to use a break over bar to get the seal retainer nut off. When I got the nut off I saw that the felt seal was completely compressed/solidified. When I put everything back together with a new seal I found that I could not get the c-clip back in place. It needs about 1/16 inch more clearance on the horn/light rod to get it in. I think the problem might be related to 1970’s repro parts. I have an early ’28 RPU and comparing the light switch escutcheon area on both cars, the gap between the escutcheon base and the steering wheel is 1/4 inch on the RPU and is 3/8 inch on the roadster. This just doesn’t look right to me on the roadster but it’s been this way since I bought the car. Also the wheel nut looks correct to me on the RPU but that same nut on the roadster is about three times as thick and has a much larger external diameter. Any and all suggestions will be much appreciated and thank you in advance, Robert Last edited by Robert/Texas; 10-06-2016 at 01:35 PM. Reason: To add to my post, the light switch rod is 46-3/16 inches long, 45-3/4 inches to the groove for the c-clip. The steering whee

10-06-2016, 03:58 PM	#2
Robert/Texas Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Burton, Texas Posts: 742	Re: Steering Box Problem I’m embarrassed. I think problem is the nut behind the wheel. It’s an extra thick nut that takes a 15/16 inch wrench and has been beaten so much that it’s hard to get a socket wrench on it. The nuts illustrated in the catalogues take a 5/8 inch wrench, thin and are slightly rounded at the top. I believe this is a clearance issue with the horn button escutcheon and replacing it should solve my problem.

10-06-2016, 04:09 PM	#3
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 9,360	Re: Steering Box Problem According to the Ford parts book the thread is 5/8"-18 The nut in 3/8" thick and takes a 15/16" wrench. Bob

10-06-2016, 04:54 PM	#4
Robert/Texas Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Burton, Texas Posts: 742	Re: Steering Box Problem Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Thanks Bob C. My steering wheel nut measures just that but it is not rounded at the top like those pictured in the Snyder's and Bratton's catalogues. I think that this causes a clearance problem with the escutcheon and I could probably grind it to work. I'd rather wait and just order one from one of the vendors for 50 cents especially as the old one is so beaten up.