Electrical Issue at light switch?

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Had an issue yesterday where I lost all lights and horn. quick check of exposed wires showed no issues, and when I restarted the car I got them back. My wife checked brake lights for me and they seemed weak to her, but it is admittedly an untrained eye.

So my thought is some issue at the steering wheel base where light switch contacts are? I have a new battery, run a fuse at the typical starter to wiring harness location and all those connections checked out.

Harness looks to have been done at some point, but before me, and all lights, horn, etc. are functioning fine otherwise.

I have not yet consulted Les Andrew's book as this happened towards end of the day yesterday and close to home.

So my question is, are there known issues/subsequent shortcuts to help diagnose the issue given these symptoms?

We put on 50 miles yesterday, car is running great but I won't likely stray that far from home until I correct this.

Thanks guys - appreciate any tips and advice!

[Tom Wesenberg]

If the engine never missed a beat, but you lost the horn and lights, then start looking at the terminal on the cutout, and work your way to the light switch.
Don't overlook a fuse holder issue, as some have had problems.
How long did the power for the lights and horn stay out?

[Jacksonlll]

If you have a fuse holder on top of the starter, wiggle it and see if you lose contact. Those little rivets don't stay tight and cause trouble.

[Mitch//pa]

Exactly what Tom said, start at the feed from the cutout. The fuse on the starter feeds the ignition circuit also so if nothing acted up drivability wise that's ok.. Use the wiring diagram to prove everything out....

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Thanks guys. Yes, engine ran so I will follow up on these tips - tough to say on the length of time the lights/horn were not working as I may not have noticed right away, but I did nothing other than tighten battery cable to starter (which was I think, an unrelated problem but only finger tight) - when I tested lights I got nothing, then I started the car to move it into the garage and got lights and horn. Seemed odd to me.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

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Sometimes the contacts in the light switch get "fuzzy" from just sitting a long time. Work the light switch through all the positions, about 50 times. The friction will, many times, "shine" up the contacts.
Same thing will many times work on a "tricky" ignition switch. MANY times, I switch my BRAIN?? switch off & on, when I first get up, so I know what to do NEXT!!!!
Bill W.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Steve_Mack_CT

Thanks guys. Yes, engine ran so I will follow up on these tips - tough to say on the length of time the lights/horn were not working as I may not have noticed right away, but I did nothing other than tighten battery cable to starter (which was I think, an unrelated problem but only finger tight) - when I tested lights I got nothing, then I started the car to move it into the garage and got lights and horn. Seemed odd to me.

The lights and horn got power from the generator once the engine started. It took less to power the coil, so the finger tight connection at the starter switch worked for that.
I think you fixed the problem.

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Guys, thanks once again for your help - Fordbarn folks are great.

Tom, that makes sense to me now. Will watch closely of course, but it stands to reason. Picked up the fuse last fall, and I must have fumbled on tightening the main connection when installing, the first long run was enough I think to shake it lose enough to be an issue.

Bill, great tip - shades of my Mercedes SL which are known to have troublesome dimmer switches for dash lights and the fix is 50 to 100 rapid turns, sure beats taking a somewhat complicated dash assembly apart!

Bill, Also, I believe you shared some tips on shifting with a new tower while it breaks in last fall - happy to say it is getting there; and while I had to hunt for second a couple of times, I was able to get it in second gear every time, a good thing...