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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Miami Oklahoma
Posts: 543
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I`ve noticed lately that when I move my 37 out of the shop to work on something else the rear brakes are dragging in reverse. Forward is fine. Getting worse. Today I put it on the lift and sure enough the right rear would turn forward but not back. I loosened the adjustment some and the wheel would spin both directions. Backed it out and brakes are dragging still. Am I adjusting them wrong? Does the adjustment cam turn clockwise to tighten as I am doing? This not just a slight drag.. It seriously does not want to back up. Gotta use some rpm and clutch to get it to move. Thanks in advance for any help. Guess I need to buy a hub puller. Anyone recommend a source for a good one?
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Tommy |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 10,154
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Juice or mechanical brakes???
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Miami Oklahoma
Posts: 543
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Sorry.. Juice brakes
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Tommy |
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#4 |
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Join Date: May 2015
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Fairly new brakes? Did you start experiencing this after the car sat for a prolonged period of time? I'd try to message those brakes a little bit by driving the car before I pulled the drums....
Try this for a hub puller > http://www.vintageprecision.com/prod...ers/index.html |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Miami Oklahoma
Posts: 543
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Thanks Pete.. No recent brake job. Car sits during the winter except for when I warm it and move it around the yard once a month or so. I will try to get it out for a spin tomorrow. I am thinking wheel cylinder sticking?? But then.. why only in reverse? Thanks for the link. I will order one. Going to need it even if not today.
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#6 |
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Miami Oklahoma
Posts: 543
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Tommy |
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#7 |
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Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 10,154
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I never adjust to "lock" the wheels when I adjust my brakes. My initial adjustment is to where the shoes just start rubbing....You might have a broken spring given the symptoms you've stated....
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: upstate SC
Posts: 3,000
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might be a good idea to pull the drum, I had a lining coming off that caused the same thing
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,634
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Can depend on the type of brakes used, Lockheed or Bendix. If the Lockheed is used, it is possible one of the clips that hold the shoes has come loose, or was left off when assembled. This allows the shoes to cock enough to cause your problem, and makes pulling the drum very difficult, as well. Check the rubber caps on the ends of the wheel cylinder for signs of leakage. The aluminum wheel cylinders can corrode, causing the piston to stick in the bore. A missing, broken, or weak spring can prevent the shoe from fully retracting. We replace all the springs when doing a brake job. Not expensive, and good insurance against a brake lockup out on the road.
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#10 |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 260
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There is plenty of info about the proper way to adjust these brakes. One was published by "rumble seat" Google Paul Garrigan (sp). Also you need to match shoe radius to drum ID.
I have a 38 with stock Henry brakes except with Buick finned drums. Contact Richard @ V8 garage. My car stops just fine... |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Miami Oklahoma
Posts: 543
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Perfect El Rat. Thank you.. I will redo the adjustment and see if it helps before pulling drums.
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Tommy |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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[QUOTE=El Rat;1239779]There is plenty of info about the proper way to adjust these brakes. One was published by "rumble seat" Google Paul Garrigan (sp).
Here is a link to a bunch of articles, many are credited to "rumbleseat". http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/flathead.htm |
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