The Ford Barn

Larry Jenkins · 01-08-2016, 04:19 PM

Some time ago, I replaced the gas valve packing. At the time, it seemed a little long because the screw cap didn't go down very far at all.

Later, I couldn't turn the valve handle. Seems like the stem was froze up due to the packing being too large. All suppositions on my part.

Finally got the stem to turn. Pried the stem and packing out and cleaned well.

Now thinking about using an "O" ring. Initial indications are that a 3/8" I.D. x 5/8" O.D. would work.

Anyone done this? What size did you use? Thank you!

Larry

Tom Wesenberg · 01-08-2016, 06:09 PM

I used the original packing after I lapped the taper with toothpaste. I greased the taper and packing as I assembled it, and it's been working perfectly for 20 years now.

d. · 01-08-2016, 06:20 PM

what Tom said...the toothpaste lapping of the taper really works well to burnish the 2 surfaces to allow a good seal. I never tried the greasing of the taper before reassembly, but it makes sense and obviously works...Toms 20 year trial test proves that.

Rowdy · 01-08-2016, 06:27 PM

Some of the packings (Macs) I have seen are too thick. Possibly order the proper thickness packings from Berts. I have replaced a couple of packings with the ones bought from Berts and no problems. Have about 15 of these valves on the shelf. May lap some of these and put in new packings to sell this spring. Healing up right now, so can not go dig to get an exact count. Rod

dalton · 01-08-2016, 10:30 PM

I got my 28/29 valve rebuild kit fom Snyders. lapped it with valve compound and its working great. I have only soaked the tank with Evaporust, so I can't say with gas, but I'm hopeful.

Mike V. Florida · 01-09-2016, 12:47 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

If you use toothpaste use the white kind not the gel kind.

Steve Plucker · 01-09-2016, 05:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

If you use toothpaste use the white kind not the gel kind.

I like Crest myself.

Pluck

Larry Jenkins · 01-09-2016, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Plucker

I like Crest myself.

Pluck

Tapered part of the stem and the valve inner body have a nice, smooth finish. Now, how about the "O" ring idea?

duke36 · 01-09-2016, 07:55 PM

This may be off topic as not stock looking, but after having many A's and leaking valves, one option was to replace the valve completely. Remove valve from tank bottom, install an elbow in the tank opening (available from most hardware stores), take a stock A gas line with brass end fittings and cut a section out and install compression fittings with a modern 1/8' ball valve.

DougVieyra · 01-09-2016, 09:23 PM

Rip - while doing what you suggest IS quite efficient and 'leak-free', it does look quite a bit 'out of place'. I used a variant of that system (the famous 'Dog Leg') for about six months, while cleaning out all the debris and rust in my gas tank. It worked well, but did look like it belonged in a basement boiler, rather than on a car (of any marque).
So after it did it's job, I took it off, set it aside for future use, and replaced the original stock (rebuilt, from Bert's) tank fuel shut-off valve.

Larry Jenkins · 01-09-2016, 10:14 PM

Has ANYONE tried the "O" ring replacement?

DougVieyra · 01-10-2016, 01:15 AM

Larry Jenkins - "Has ANYONE tried the "O" ring replacement?
______________________________________________

Well, Larry, you pointedly asked the question THREE TIMES - yet still no answer, or even a reference to the 'O' ring question.

Which would seem to reflect poorly on our ability to focus on the question. So at least from those who responded with a post, a 'no answer', it would appear, is a "No" answer. No one has tried using an 'O' ring.

It appears that you must indulge the FORUM readers a bit longer, in the hopes that later on down the road, someone will find you thread, and reply with a positive answer and give their results.

Sorry that we have only 'danced around' the question and not been able to give a more positive answer to your question. But don't give up on the FORUM, I am sure SOMEONE has tried the 'O' ring, and will eventually find your thread, and give a response.

tbirdtbird · 01-10-2016, 03:29 AM

none yet

Mike V. Florida · 01-10-2016, 04:00 AM

As for the O ring, we purchase the rebuild kits from the vendors because "Good enough.. isn't".

C26Pinelake · 01-10-2016, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Jenkins

Has ANYONE tried the "O" ring replacement?

For less than a dollar you can try your O ring! Currently it would appear that people for some reason have not tried it. So this is your opportunity to be a pioneer! Wayne

Pete / MA · 01-10-2016, 07:53 AM

http://www.elastotechgaskets.com/sta...namic_seal.php

An old millwright told me o-rings were best for static or non moving sealing and self lubricating packing or lip seals, were best for dynamic (moving) sealing jobs.

To answer your question, no, I have never tried an o-ring on my fuel valve. I have used the kit that Snyder's sells a couple of times with good results...........Pete

kenparker · 01-10-2016, 08:49 AM

Ok,OK,OK, but don't yell at me.

I have used the O ring on several occasions and currently run one in both my 28 Pickup an 31 Coupe. But, as stated above the O ring is for static applications and NOT for moving joints as is the Shut Off Valve. I do not turn my gas valve off each time I park my A's, not even at night. I instead rely on the electric shut off valve installed in the fuel line.

The O ring keeps the valve from leaking. Good Line Joints keep the linesand Filter bowl from leaking and the Electric keeps the pressure off the carb keeping it from leaking. Problem solved. ken

Larry Jenkins · 01-10-2016, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DougVieyra

Larry Jenkins - "Has ANYONE tried the "O" ring replacement?
______________________________________________

Well, Larry, you pointedly asked the question THREE TIMES - yet still no answer, or even a reference to the 'O' ring question.

Which would seem to reflect poorly on our ability to focus on the question. So at least from those who responded with a post, a 'no answer', it would appear, is a "No" answer. No one has tried using an 'O' ring.

It appears that you must indulge the FORUM readers a bit longer, in the hopes that later on down the road, someone will find you thread, and reply with a positive answer and give their results.

Sorry that we have only 'danced around' the question and not been able to give a more positive answer to your question. But don't give up on the FORUM, I am sure SOMEONE has tried the 'O' ring, and will eventually find your thread, and give a response.

Thanks, Doug. Yes, we are all a little anxious when we post. I'm probably very guilty about that. You are absolutely right.

Mike.. Yes, that's my philosophy. BUT.. Where does it say that improvements can't be made? Did Henry know about "O" rings? Were they even around then?

Yes. reinventing the wheel sometimes is better..

Larry

Mitch//pa · 01-10-2016, 11:07 AM

I didn't say this but what about buying a new one? Both my cars have new ones and they work perfect... If either fails I'll get another....

700rpm · 01-10-2016, 11:35 AM

Larry, since no one here seems to have experience with o rings and shutoff valves, you could try this and give us a report on how it works out. If you do, I would suggest you first put the o ring in a small amount of corn gas for a month or two to see if the gas destroys the rubber before you install it on your shutoff valve.

01-08-2016, 04:19 PM	#1
Larry Jenkins BANNED Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: East Central Iowa Posts: 1,275	1930 under tank gas valve Some time ago, I replaced the gas valve packing. At the time, it seemed a little long because the screw cap didn't go down very far at all. Later, I couldn't turn the valve handle. Seems like the stem was froze up due to the packing being too large. All suppositions on my part. Finally got the stem to turn. Pried the stem and packing out and cleaned well. Now thinking about using an "O" ring. Initial indications are that a 3/8" I.D. x 5/8" O.D. would work. Anyone done this? What size did you use? Thank you! Larry __________________ Good enough.. Isn't.

01-08-2016, 06:09 PM	#2
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: 1930 under tank gas valve I used the original packing after I lapped the taper with toothpaste. I greased the taper and packing as I assembled it, and it's been working perfectly for 20 years now.

01-08-2016, 06:20 PM	#3
d. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 510	Re: 1930 under tank gas valve what Tom said...the toothpaste lapping of the taper really works well to burnish the 2 surfaces to allow a good seal. I never tried the greasing of the taper before reassembly, but it makes sense and obviously works...Toms 20 year trial test proves that.

01-08-2016, 06:27 PM	#4
Rowdy BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Gothenburg Nebraska Just off I-80 Posts: 4,893	Re: 1930 under tank gas valve Some of the packings (Macs) I have seen are too thick. Possibly order the proper thickness packings from Berts. I have replaced a couple of packings with the ones bought from Berts and no problems. Have about 15 of these valves on the shelf. May lap some of these and put in new packings to sell this spring. Healing up right now, so can not go dig to get an exact count. Rod __________________ Do the RIGHT thing - Support the H.A.M.B. Alliance!!!!

01-08-2016, 10:30 PM	#5
dalton Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Orlando Posts: 94	Re: 1930 under tank gas valve I got my 28/29 valve rebuild kit fom Snyders. lapped it with valve compound and its working great. I have only soaked the tank with Evaporust, so I can't say with gas, but I'm hopeful.

01-09-2016, 12:47 AM	#6
Mike V. Florida Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Florida between Sarasota and TampaSouth Florida Posts: 14,054	Re: 1930 under tank gas valve Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) If you use toothpaste use the white kind not the gel kind. __________________ What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II

01-09-2016, 07:55 PM	#9
duke36 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Posts: 1,425	Re: 1930 under tank gas valve This may be off topic as not stock looking, but after having many A's and leaking valves, one option was to replace the valve completely. Remove valve from tank bottom, install an elbow in the tank opening (available from most hardware stores), take a stock A gas line with brass end fittings and cut a section out and install compression fittings with a modern 1/8' ball valve.

01-09-2016, 09:23 PM	#10
DougVieyra Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Eureka, California Posts: 1,733	Re: 1930 under tank gas valve Rip - while doing what you suggest IS quite efficient and 'leak-free', it does look quite a bit 'out of place'. I used a variant of that system (the famous 'Dog Leg') for about six months, while cleaning out all the debris and rust in my gas tank. It worked well, but did look like it belonged in a basement boiler, rather than on a car (of any marque). So after it did it's job, I took it off, set it aside for future use, and replaced the original stock (rebuilt, from Bert's) tank fuel shut-off valve.

01-09-2016, 10:14 PM	#11
Larry Jenkins BANNED Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: East Central Iowa Posts: 1,275	Re: 1930 under tank gas valve Has ANYONE tried the "O" ring replacement? __________________ Good enough.. Isn't.

01-10-2016, 01:15 AM	#12
DougVieyra Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Eureka, California Posts: 1,733	Re: 1930 under tank gas valve Larry Jenkins - "Has ANYONE tried the "O" ring replacement? ______________________________________________ Well, Larry, you pointedly asked the question THREE TIMES - yet still no answer, or even a reference to the 'O' ring question. Which would seem to reflect poorly on our ability to focus on the question. So at least from those who responded with a post, a 'no answer', it would appear, is a "No" answer. No one has tried using an 'O' ring. It appears that you must indulge the FORUM readers a bit longer, in the hopes that later on down the road, someone will find you thread, and reply with a positive answer and give their results. Sorry that we have only 'danced around' the question and not been able to give a more positive answer to your question. But don't give up on the FORUM, I am sure SOMEONE has tried the 'O' ring, and will eventually find your thread, and give a response.

01-10-2016, 03:29 AM	#13
tbirdtbird BANNED Join Date: May 2012 Location: inside your RAM Posts: 3,134	Re: 1930 under tank gas valve none yet __________________ '31 180A

01-10-2016, 04:00 AM	#14
Mike V. Florida Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Florida between Sarasota and TampaSouth Florida Posts: 14,054	Re: 1930 under tank gas valve As for the O ring, we purchase the rebuild kits from the vendors because "Good enough.. isn't". __________________ What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II

01-10-2016, 07:53 AM	#16
Pete / MA Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Brookfield, NH Posts: 102	Re: 1930 under tank gas valve http://www.elastotechgaskets.com/sta...namic_seal.php An old millwright told me o-rings were best for static or non moving sealing and self lubricating packing or lip seals, were best for dynamic (moving) sealing jobs. To answer your question, no, I have never tried an o-ring on my fuel valve. I have used the kit that Snyder's sells a couple of times with good results...........Pete

01-10-2016, 08:49 AM	#17
kenparker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Van, Texas Posts: 1,122	Re: 1930 under tank gas valve Ok,OK,OK, but don't yell at me. I have used the O ring on several occasions and currently run one in both my 28 Pickup an 31 Coupe. But, as stated above the O ring is for static applications and NOT for moving joints as is the Shut Off Valve. I do not turn my gas valve off each time I park my A's, not even at night. I instead rely on the electric shut off valve installed in the fuel line. The O ring keeps the valve from leaking. Good Line Joints keep the linesand Filter bowl from leaking and the Electric keeps the pressure off the carb keeping it from leaking. Problem solved. ken

01-10-2016, 11:07 AM	#19
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: 1930 under tank gas valve I didn't say this but what about buying a new one? Both my cars have new ones and they work perfect... If either fails I'll get another.... Last edited by Mitch//pa; 01-10-2016 at 12:25 PM.

01-10-2016, 11:35 AM	#20
700rpm Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 6,039	Re: 1930 under tank gas valve Larry, since no one here seems to have experience with o rings and shutoff valves, you could try this and give us a report on how it works out. If you do, I would suggest you first put the o ring in a small amount of corn gas for a month or two to see if the gas destroys the rubber before you install it on your shutoff valve. __________________ Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole.