The Ford Barn

flatford39 · 01-09-2016, 02:55 PM

Well I got a good prognosis back from my machine shop on my 53 Merc 8BA. No cracks in valve seats or cylinder walls. They boiled it out, magnaflux and a pressure test and I am good to go.

Now my question....to get this engine apart which was stuck I had to cut 8 exhaust valves heads off and drive the guides out from the top so I need to replace the entire valve train which is OK with me.

Most of the kits I see offer stainless valves some Chevy and some Ford.

My question is can I just lap the stainless valves into the seats with grinding compound by hand like we used to do in the old days. You know with the suction cup on a stick method??? Or will not this work with the stainless valves???

Thanks,

Tom

JSeery · 01-09-2016, 03:03 PM

Lapping is a final clean up type of procedure (and often not recommended). You need the seats cleaned up by a machine shop using the proper equipment.

Ronnie · 01-09-2016, 03:24 PM

Yup x2 ^^^

R

GOSFAST · 01-09-2016, 04:06 PM

Hi Tom, avoid the "long" valves if possible, causes too much grief with spring hgts/pressures. If you need the add'l valve length in the future just use some lash caps. They will add to the length but have no effect on setting up the springs. Been their and done it many times. We only use/sell stainless valves nowadays.

Here we do the "good old" bronze-lined guides, no more "hung"/"stuck" valves ever again.

(Add) JSeery has it correct above here!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. To get the best possible (valve) job have the seats either machined with the correct cutters or at least "ground" with some dedicated stones. The photo here shows the seat machined first and then double-checked by lapping. We have no issues with lapping, but only after machining.

flatford39 · 01-09-2016, 04:25 PM

Thanks guys that all makes sense to me. Since I am going to need to have it bored out some I may as well have them grind the seats as well. I am using Johnson adjustable lifters so I hope to have some play with the valves.

Pete · 01-09-2016, 05:23 PM

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As long as you have to have a shop do the work, try to find one that has a valve machine with vacuum. This is used to check the valve for sealing after the machining is done.
They will be able to install the bronze liners also.

GB SISSON · 01-09-2016, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete

As long as you have to have a shop do the work, try to find one that has a valve machine with vacuum. This is used to check the valve for sealing after the machining is done.
They will be able to install the bronze liners also.

Pete, since you live in Washington do you have a shop that has this vacuum equipment in mind? Also on another note, you have my favorite avatar on the barn, could you post it big real quick, then we'll get right back to the valve topic. Thanks

Pete · 01-09-2016, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Pete, since you live in Washington do you have a shop that has this vacuum equipment in mind? Also on another note, you have my favorite avatar on the barn, could you post it big real quick, then we'll get right back to the valve topic. Thanks

A friend of mine just bought the equipment from the shop I was having do my valves on a Serdi machine.
He should be operating by now but I don't have his address of phone number yet. He is in Tacoma.
I will have to make some calls to get it.

V8COOPMAN · 01-10-2016, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Pete, you have my favorite avatar on the barn, could you post it big real quick? Thanks

...............

01-09-2016, 02:55 PM	#1
flatford39 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NE Illinois Posts: 499	8BA Valve Train Well I got a good prognosis back from my machine shop on my 53 Merc 8BA. No cracks in valve seats or cylinder walls. They boiled it out, magnaflux and a pressure test and I am good to go. Now my question....to get this engine apart which was stuck I had to cut 8 exhaust valves heads off and drive the guides out from the top so I need to replace the entire valve train which is OK with me. Most of the kits I see offer stainless valves some Chevy and some Ford. My question is can I just lap the stainless valves into the seats with grinding compound by hand like we used to do in the old days. You know with the suction cup on a stick method??? Or will not this work with the stainless valves??? Thanks, Tom

01-09-2016, 03:03 PM	#2
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: 8BA Valve Train Lapping is a final clean up type of procedure (and often not recommended). You need the seats cleaned up by a machine shop using the proper equipment.

01-09-2016, 03:24 PM	#3
Ronnie Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Canada Where it snows Posts: 2,059	Re: 8BA Valve Train Yup x2 ^^^ R

01-09-2016, 04:25 PM	#5
flatford39 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NE Illinois Posts: 499	Re: 8BA Valve Train Thanks guys that all makes sense to me. Since I am going to need to have it bored out some I may as well have them grind the seats as well. I am using Johnson adjustable lifters so I hope to have some play with the valves.

01-09-2016, 05:23 PM	#6
Pete BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wa. Posts: 5,423	Re: 8BA Valve Train Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) As long as you have to have a shop do the work, try to find one that has a valve machine with vacuum. This is used to check the valve for sealing after the machining is done. They will be able to install the bronze liners also.