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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 322
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hello- not much luck using the conventional diagr for setting neut---i want to use a more real time approach----with rear jacked up , engine running , i want to push down on slow speed pedal til wheels go from fast to slow and then adjust the pedal to cam screw clk wise til it touches cam.
my ques is : which pedal position best defines neut, the last of high or the start of slow? i'm told by experienced people that there is no pedal posn. btween at which the wheels will stop turnining all together. thank you---i know most people use the diagr method but i want ton visualize the affect of the screw position as its being adjusted |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Toms River N.J.
Posts: 515
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I don't know how well this will work as I believe, as you said, the wheels might not actually stop turning.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 6,410
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RE;"i'm told by experienced people that there is no pedal posn. btween at which the wheels will stop turnining all together."
The model T has a wet multi disk clutch and with the wheels jacked up there will be drag in the clutch and the wheels will want to turn even with warm oil. The screw adjustment for the cam on the brake cross shaft; simple take the cover off and look, with the lever pulled to the horizontal position, is the collier pulled back and are the fingers loose? If so then that is set correctly. The adjustment screw only need to be adjusted enough to move the collier back off the fingers when the parking brake lever is pulled back. Real time is set all the parts to the diagram for the linkage. Set the screw for the cross shaft cam to where the collier is releasing the fingers when the lever is pulled back. Set the fingers to the proper distance from the drive plate. If the clutch slips in high, turn the finger screws in another 1/2 turn and drive it again. Repeat as needed. You need to have the wheels on the ground to really see what is going on and almost ALL Model T's will have some creep if the parking brakes are not set when using the original steel clutch disks. |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tulsa OK
Posts: 476
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I have five Model T's with the original clutch disks. None of them creep in neutral. They do have to be adjusted properly. And the oil needs to be oil, not molasses.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,370
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I always thought that Ford built his model T to give a gentle nudge to its operator when started to give homage to old dobbin it was replacing.
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 322
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 322
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thank u very much-i understand,correct me if i'm wrong-the big spring at the rear of the trans when extended all the way fwd push on the fingers which in turn pushes clutch discs together & hi,slow, brake , or reverse are engaged depending which is selected.THIS IS NON NEUTRAL.
when lever is vert or back, the spool is pushed back,compressing the spring, taking force off the fingers and allowing discs to separate. this is NEUTRAL |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,370
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Discs separated = neutral as long as first or reverse pedals are not engaged.
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#9 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Central Mich
Posts: 28
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The clutch disk are not compressed or used when in low or reverse. When in high the disk are compressed and makes a solid connection from motor to driveshaft. in other words the disk are free to slip in neutral,low and reverse.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 6,410
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Should have been vertical not horizontal. The collar = clutch release collar part number 3344 in the parts book (it does have a different name in the parts book) As stated above the only time the clutch is engaged is in high. All other times the clutch is disengaged when the car is running (low, reverse and braking.) The clutch can be engaged when using the tran. brake to slow down but for full stop must be disengaged.
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