Let's talk ground connections..

[Larry Jenkins]

There are a lot of ground connections on a Model A. If not very secure, problems with lights; horn and other electrical items may not work well.

So, how do you prepare your grounds, starting with the battery cable (s).

Then, after you have prepared them well, do you add anything like covers; petroleum jelly or other protectants?

Larry

[Mitch//pa]

i use dielectric grease
its almost invisible, protects, seals out moisture, prevents corrosion

[Pete]

I have had many people ask how I wired my car but after I told them, they totally lost interest in talking to me, but I will lay it on you anyway.
I use a seperate ground wire for EVERYTHING electrical on the car. They all go back to one point. The frame and body of the car are not involved in any electrical circuits, except being a ground plane for the 2 way radio antenna.

[Larry Jenkins]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

i use dielectric grease
its almost invisible, protects, seals out moisture, prevents corrosion

I'm not real swift about what "dielectric" grease is.. Comes in a tube? Who carries it?

Great solution! Thanks Mitch..

Larry

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Larry Jenkins

I'm not real swift about what "dielectric" grease is.. Comes in a tube? Who carries it?

Great solution! Thanks Mitch..

Larry

the most common nane you may recognize is permatex..
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...-grease-detail

[Larry Jenkins]

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Originally Posted by Pete

I have had many people ask how I wired my car but after I told them, they totally lost interest in talking to me, but I will lay it on you anyway.
I use a seperate ground wire for EVERYTHING electrical on the car. They all go back to one point. The frame and body of the car are not involved in any electrical circuits, except being a ground plane for the 2 way radio antenna.

Thanks, Pete..

Got a schematic drawing for your wires? Good idea.. Labor intensive. Do you think it's worth it? Any experiences you would like to share?

Larry

[Larry Jenkins]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

the most common nane you may recognize is permatex..
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...-grease-detail

The only thing I can relate to Permatex is gasket sealers. Do they make this under the Permatex name?

Larry

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Larry Jenkins

Thanks, Pete..

Got a schematic drawing for your wires? Good idea.. Labor intensive. Do you think it's worth it? Any experiences you would like to share?

Larry

The schematic is the same as the stock one except for every hot wire there is a ground wire.
I think it is worth it if you don't want wiring problems down the road.
No experiences. I wired it many years ago and forgot about it.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Larry Jenkins

The only thing I can relate to Permatex is gasket sealers. Do they make this under the Permatex name?

Larry

Larry,

Try the link.

Charlie Stephens

[Kevin in NJ]

You have to think about the ground paths.

First, while the frame was bare I tinned the area where the ground is bolted on the frame.

We paint stuff too much as restorers. While setting up my fenders I made sure the contact areas for the front fender brackets to frame, bracket to bottom of fender, fender to bracket top and bottom, the raised pads of the headlamp bar, and the ball socket all had bare areas.

You have to be concerned with path through the axles to the the engine. Springs, use original metal shackles, an so on.

The Model A is a thinking persons car. Lots of little things that you do not worry about on later cars.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Larry wired his car like a fiberglass boat, where EVERYTHING has a dedicated ground wire. It's neat to use only BLACK wire for grounds, as they are easily identified. Chief always pulled ground wires into the looms, for tail lights, headlights, etc. They're easy to add, just bend back the end of skinny mechanics' wire, push it through the loom, tie the ground wire to it & pull it through, attach each end & ZIP, you're through!
Bill Zippo

[Larry Jenkins]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

the most common nane you may recognize is permatex..
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...-grease-detail

Thanks for posting the link, Mitch..

It looks kinda like the grease some battery shops gob onto the ground terminal.

Do you think dielectric grease is better that running a ground wire for every hot wire? I do.. Your thoughts..

Larry

[Tomy Turbos]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

i use dielectric grease
its almost invisible, protects, seals out moisture, prevents corrosion

Many manuals for Eurocars specify 'non-acidic vaseline', which on this side of the pond we call dielectric grease. I use it on almost everything -- ARB bushings included.

With the exception of O2 Sensors and some other electronic components it is used on every splice or termination on every wire I touch.

(speaking to the OP now)
That said, wiring can be tricky and I can't say everything I know about it here. Especially in the context of octogenarian cars.

I have a variety of tools/methods/products I use to rectify terminations. Dielectric grease is one but I also use two CRC products extensively. 'Lectra-Motive' and 'Electronic Cleaner'. Do not confuse the two! Lectra-Motive will eat a printed circuit and/or any wire under 18ga.

Much of this doesn't really apply an old Ford but the principles haven't changed any more than any another law of physics.

Scotch-Brite pads are also part of my wiring arsenal.

Bottom line is that contacts need to be clean. Lubing them with 'bulb grease/aka dielectric grease/aka non-acidic vaseline is a great way to ensure that they stay that way. As well, soldered connections always beat crimps.

And use Heat Shrink unless you like to the same thing over and over, expecting a different result.

Finally, sometimes its the wire. Nothing can be done other than replacing it.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Wire brush the terminals so they are free of all corrosion, then grease them as Mitch said and make sure they are tight. I never remove paint, as I find the lock washers bite in and make a good connection. The frame is a good ground circuit, as long as you don't try to ground through rust. As mentioned, solder the terminals, and don't just crimp them.

[Henry's Lady's Man]

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

You have to think about the ground paths.

First, while the frame was bare I tinned the area where the ground is bolted on the frame.

We paint stuff too much as restorers. While setting up my fenders I made sure the contact areas for the front fender brackets to frame, bracket to bottom of fender, fender to bracket top and bottom, the raised pads of the headlamp bar, and the ball socket all had bare areas.

You have to be concerned with path through the axles to the the engine. Springs, use original metal shackles, an so on.

The Model A is a thinking persons car. Lots of little things that you do not worry about on later cars.

That is a profound statement. Can I quote you on that, Kevin? I will put ur User Name with it when I do... Chuck

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Larry Jenkins

Thanks for posting the link, Mitch..

It looks kinda like the grease some battery shops gob onto the ground terminal.

Do you think dielectric grease is better that running a ground wire for every hot wire? I do.. Your thoughts..

Larry

for me its a matter of correctness and proper look on these old cars so i would not do that. yes it would be better to complete each circuit with its own dedicated ground wire.

[Al 29Tudor]

I use dielectric grease. For the headlights I soldered a ground wires to the sockets and pulled them through the looms for direct grounds to the frame. I have also used a burnishing tool to remove the paint so the terminal will contact the frame directly. If using this method be sure to use dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.
Al

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

On critical connections, such as the output terminal on the cut-out, I put a TINY drop of Blue Loctite on the screw threads, wish they made CLEAR Loctite. I also use the soldered type terminals, nothing worse than a CHEEP, seamed terminal that lets a wire pull out +*%$^%%&+**--The seamless, lead terminals also work quite well, when CRIMPED ON. Be sure to invest in a QUALITY crimping/stripping tool & remember, most crimping tools can cut/shorten most standard machine screws, just look for the little threaded holes, near the main pivot pin. (TIP# 781)
Bill W.

[Kurt in NJ]

Use new lockwashers

Think about the ground path when painting ---the factory paint was quite thin, it was easy for contact to be made, many parts were painted as an assembly, we in doing a restoration want everything covered in primer, rust pits filled, and perfect shiney paint ,this makes for thicker paint coatings, and many times paint in places that wern't originally painted ---places that form part of the ground path

[katy]

the most common nane you may recognize is permatex..
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...-grease-detail

Is that silicone based?