Newbie With a 1930 Coupe

[Lefthander1930]

Going to change over to 12 volts, Things I know I have to do.
1 Battery
2 Coil Internal resistor ??
3 Head & tail light bulbs
4 Alternator
5 Starter is good for now
6 Backup Drive gear spring
7 Change to positive ground
8 Switch wires on amp gauge
If there is anything else please let me know.

[DJ S]

I wouldn't switch over to 12v... too much work that isn't needed. A good 6v system will work just fine and if you want to improve it, just switch from a generator to an alternator.

[KGBnut]

Sorry, I can't help you much with the change to 12 v, but I think it is covered in Les Andrew's books.

However, I would agree with DJ S. It is easy to make the mistake of trying to "improve" your Model A before getting used to how it was originally. I made that mistake when I was a newbie.

I would change to 12 v only if I was planning to do a lot of night driving, or if I needed a bunch of modern accessories...radios, CB, satellite radio...

If you are doing this to get better charge, brighter head lights, etc... attack your grounds aggressively. You would need them cleaned up for the 12 v system, too.

Good luck.

Ken

[Y-Blockhead]

My Town Sedan had been converted to 12v before I bought it and I'm not sure I see much of an advantage except it turns over and starts much easier than any of the 6v Model A's I'm familiar with. If my car had 6v when I bought it I doubt I would change it over to 12v for just that reason tho.

If you're set on switching to 12v, two things I suggest you include in your list are 12v field coils for the starter and a modern starter drive.

[bobpo1]

I agree with DJ S in that the 6 volt is fine, it starts every time and requires no work. The Main thing is to make sure you have a Good Ground. The only thing I did was to install an alternator. The (standard ) battery is charged once per year and I've been using it for five (5) years now. Love the Six Volt...............

[Charlie Stephens]

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Originally Posted by Lefthander1930

Going to change over to 12 volts, Things I know I have to do.
1 Battery
2 Coil Internal resistor ??
3 Head & tail light bulbs
4 Alternator
5 Starter is good for now
6 Backup Drive gear spring
7 Change to positive ground
8 Switch wires on amp gauge
If there is anything else please let me know.

Just a few comments:

3. Get your 12 volt headlight bulbs from Ron Francis Wire Works, https://www.ronfrancis.com, (800) 292-1940 Their bulbs go into the original sockets and are VERY bright Look for their "Brite" bulbs

7. You probably meant to say change to negative ground (which is what you should do).

Final thought, why are you changing?

Charlie Stephens

[Lefthander1930]

halgen lights, 12 volt outlet for cell phone & gps & maybe radio.

[1930artdeco]

Welcome lefthander. You can get halogen bulbs in 6v for these cars just make sure you get the new Bratton reflectors. As for the rest, I believe that someone made a 6-12v converter so the could charge their phone. I think it was in one of the restorers from mafca. Maybe a smart person here will remember which issue.

Mike
A fellow lefty....

[daveymc29]

I'm staying with 6V, added the alternator and the aluminized headlight reflectors, Now people dip their lights to get me to go to low beam. Never happened before. Added an inverter for GPS, never used it but to check speedometer reading, Spark is almost 1/2 inch when grounded coil wire, bright blue. Installed splash pans which improved grounding and clean and solder all connections. No radio in any of my Model A's, to much noise to listen to Bach. Starts first time every time with my Optima battery from amazon.com

[Gold Digger]

I bought an alternator a few years back so I could use halogen lights. When I installed the alternator I didn't even need halogens. The lights are bright as any 12 volt and I also have used my Garmin gps on 6 volts with no problem. I would never change to 12 volts.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Lefthander1930

Going to change over to 12 volts, Things I know I have to do.
1 Battery
2 Coil Internal resistor ??
3 Head & tail light bulbs
4 Alternator
5 Starter is good for now
6 Backup Drive gear spring
7 Change to positive ground
8 Switch wires on amp gauge
If there is anything else please let me know.

Add to the other items I suggested you should install a 30amp ammeter

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Lefthander1930

halgen lights, 12 volt outlet for cell phone & gps & maybe radio.

Welcome to the hobby!!

On your list only a radio on the cars battery needs 12 volts.

Reflectors from Brattons, correct bulbs that are properly focused will take care of the lighting problem. GPS and Cell Phone use 5 volts so in almost all cases the converter you have will work as well converting 6 volts to 5 as it will converting 12 volts to 5. (do a search on the forum to see what other have done.

If you have your heart set on 12 volts, look here;

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpo...27&postcount=3

[Bill in SoCal]

Welcome Lefthander1930.

Well there is a lot of good advice for you to consider. If you do not have two tail lights, I would consider adding the passenger (right) side tail light assembly. 6 or 12 volt system does not matter. The Model A is not easily seen from the rear at night. The extra tail light does help - so does a rear window stop light.

Whatever you do - I think you are in for a lot of fun. Welcome again, Bill

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Add to the other items I suggested you should install a 30amp ammeter

A cheap way around a new ammeter is to run a jumper wire across the two ammeter terminals so a portion of the current goes through the ammeter and the rest through the wire. You ammeter reading will be off but just adjust for it in your head. I usually run 10 gauge wire but it depends on how the rest of your electrical system is set up. You may be able to jumper cross the two terminals at the junction box depending upon how your vehicle is wired.

Charlie Stephens

[monto]

As per Y-Blockead, mine came with 12V installed. Modular with starter, alternator and distributor with automatic advance. Negative ground. Only other change required was bulbs. (unless I forgot something) Not sure, but I think you can buy the above as a conversion kit....Compared with 6V, quick starting is neat.

[Terry, NJ]

I was a "Modernize" person when I bought mine too.Nothing but a 12V E-system and Hyd brakes would do. After owning 3 A s iI have come to see the wisdom of leaving it alone. 6V is adequate! Keep your engine in tune and time, Keep your connections CLEAN BRIGHT and TIGHT and you should have no problems.
Terry

[Al 29Tudor]

Welcome to a great hobby Lefthander.

12V not necessary for a good running car.
I use high candle power bulbs and installed Bratton's head light reflectors and drive at night any time I want to.

Enjoy your coupe.
Al

[mike657894]

i got mine going on 12v just worked through this yesturday. the generator reads varying voltage at different rpms 12 at idle 25 revved up. 6v ballast resistor on the circuit that you will separate for your coil,key and distributor. then switch all your lighting to 12v bulbs. i bought a 8 spot fuse block off ebay for 7$. i re ran all the wires except those in the column there was bare spots every where. i put a wire from my generator to the starter post. a wire from the starter post feeds my fuse block. fuses are separated as: 1 lights 2 ignition system with 6v res 3 horn 4 will be radio that will have to be insulated to maintain positive ground. im using positive ground until i switch the gen over. if i ever do. to test the system i ran the car and detached the positive ground cable and ran the tail lights and blew the horn with no effect to the ignition. the horn tune would follow with rpm more without a battery. i havent got the 55w halogen bulbs i ordered and i dont know how well the gen will run those but i think it should work, My main goal for the 12v switch was the availability of 12v batteries and a jump if needed ever.

[mike657894]

your coil dist circuit will work positive ground connect from a 15 amp fuse to the 6v resistor the coil negative then the coil positive to the key from the key to the distibuter. I kept the metal wraped wire that goes to the distributer because it looked good. every thing else on 12v circuts. cut out the ammeter and add a volt meter later that doesnt have to be in series. remove the wire that goes from distribution block to the generator

[mike657894]

http://s332.photobucket.com/user/mic...40949.jpg.html