The Ford Barn

larry harding · 10-04-2015, 01:07 PM

I am upgrading to modern zerk fittings as I go along. I am trying to remove the clevis/fork from the shaft so I can tap the hole in 5the housing to accept the zerk fitting. I can't get the pin out of the clevis. is it a taper pin or is it a rivet? I even tried heating but it just wouldn't budge. I would like some advice before I start drilling.

aermotor · 10-04-2015, 01:29 PM

If you mean the cross shaft it doesn't have grease fittings, if you mean the pedal shaft - like wise, no fitting.

John

harleytoprock · 10-04-2015, 01:34 PM

Didn't you just post this question already?

H. L. Chauvin · 10-04-2015, 01:43 PM

Hi Larry,

The A-2480C front brake lever is riveted with A-2085 1/4" rivets to the A-2076 shaft.

This rivet should not be tapered.

As with any rivet, when riveted in place, the diameter of the rivet increases as it is hit, and fits tightly in the hole ....... not like a bolt which remains loose in a hole.

If you have a 3/16" diameter punch it can be driven out.

Do not use a pointed punch which will increase the diameter of the rivet and flare on one end thus making it more difficult to remove.

Hope this is what you are asking about & helps to answer your question.

larry harding · 10-04-2015, 02:22 PM

I think you have answered my question. one end looked bigger than the other and I just wanted to be sure. tomorrow I will do a little drilling and grinding like other rivets. I thought I had posted this question earlier but could not find it. anyway thanks!

H. L. Chauvin · 10-04-2015, 03:42 PM

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Hi Larry,

It was very customary in years gone by to have a very "sharp" cold chisel on hand to "easily" cut off and remove heads of rivets or remove hammered tails of rivets.

Once the sheared shank is exposed, it can be driven out with a punch with a "flat" end preferably only a little smaller in diameter than that of the rivet's shank.

Before shank removal ...... and/or the minute the shank moves a few thousandths of an inch .......... spraying both ends with WD-40 helps it to slide out.

One can imagine how this connection would never work as well through the ages with a bolt ........ rivets fill the drilled hole in the shaft solidly to prevent even the slightest of joint movement and/or wear ......... some of our ancestors ......... even without any formal education whatsoever .......... had great mechanical and structural engineering common sense minds which can be very much respected and appreciated today in 2015.

ericr · 10-05-2015, 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

Hi Larry,

It was very customary in years gone by to have a very "sharp" cold chisel on hand to "easily" cut off and remove heads of rivets or remove hammered tails of rivets.

Once the sheared shank is exposed, it can be driven out with a punch with a "flat" end preferably only a little smaller in diameter than that of the rivet's shank.

Before shank removal ...... and/or the minute the shank moves a few thousandths of an inch .......... spraying both ends with WD-40 helps it to slide out.

One can imagine how this connection would never work as well through the ages with a bolt ........ rivets fill the drilled hole in the shaft solidly to prevent even the slightest of joint movement and/or wear ......... some of our ancestors ......... even without any formal education whatsoever .......... had great mechanical and structural engineering common sense minds which can be very much respected and appreciated today in 2015.

H.L., wouldn't a roll pin work just as well?

-Eric

Kurt in NJ · 10-05-2015, 08:26 AM

The holes are slightly off and would have to be redrilled to a larger size, this is why the pin is used, by compressing it the shank of the pin is swelled into the holes filling them ,preventing movement, also making it hard to just punch the pin out when just the heads are removed---I don't just pein the ends, i compress the pin in a large heavy vise or hydraulic press then form the head of the pin

I don't consider modern fittings an upgrade, the original fittings are quicker and cleaner to use with the proper grease gun, only needing one hand while the other holds arag to clean the fittings--aim and push with one hand

Mitch//pa · 10-05-2015, 08:32 AM

i wouldnt use a roll pin as they are hollow spring steel, we are talking about brakes here

bunnyc · 10-05-2015, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

i wouldnt use a roll pin as they are hollow spring steel, we are talking about brakes here

How about a spirol pin? I use them on the driveshaft couplers on antique garden tractors. They stay put and have great don't shear.

Mitch//pa · 10-05-2015, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bunnyc

How about a spirol pin? I use them on the driveshaft couplers on antique garden tractors. They stay put and have great don't shear.

how about these for .95

bdave_mcc · 10-05-2015, 10:52 PM

what mitch said...ive got roll pins in shafts and couplers but they are only to prevent the joint from sliding apart and they are also splined or keyed to take the rotational force, your brake parts don't have any key or spline(except emergency brake levers)that I know of, the pin takes on all of the force. Also the holes may not be perfect, you want that joint to be solid and not have any play. So the swelled up rivet takes up the space. BTW they are not fun to get out no matter how you go about it.

bdave_mcc · 10-05-2015, 10:55 PM

But I have to ask...why tear it all apart to put those fittings in rather than just using the press in style fittings the vendors sell? Pull your old ones out, press the new ones in and done.

10-04-2015, 01:07 PM	#1
larry harding Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: western n.c. Posts: 437	front brake shaft housing question I am upgrading to modern zerk fittings as I go along. I am trying to remove the clevis/fork from the shaft so I can tap the hole in 5the housing to accept the zerk fitting. I can't get the pin out of the clevis. is it a taper pin or is it a rivet? I even tried heating but it just wouldn't budge. I would like some advice before I start drilling.

10-04-2015, 01:29 PM	#2
aermotor Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 1,099	Re: front brake shaft housing question If you mean the cross shaft it doesn't have grease fittings, if you mean the pedal shaft - like wise, no fitting. John

10-04-2015, 01:34 PM	#3
harleytoprock Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Posts: 438	Re: front brake shaft housing question Didn't you just post this question already?

10-04-2015, 01:43 PM	#4
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Re: front brake shaft housing question Hi Larry, The A-2480C front brake lever is riveted with A-2085 1/4" rivets to the A-2076 shaft. This rivet should not be tapered. As with any rivet, when riveted in place, the diameter of the rivet increases as it is hit, and fits tightly in the hole ....... not like a bolt which remains loose in a hole. If you have a 3/16" diameter punch it can be driven out. Do not use a pointed punch which will increase the diameter of the rivet and flare on one end thus making it more difficult to remove. Hope this is what you are asking about & helps to answer your question. Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 10-04-2015 at 01:44 PM. Reason: typo

10-04-2015, 02:22 PM	#5
larry harding Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: western n.c. Posts: 437	Re: front brake shaft housing question I think you have answered my question. one end looked bigger than the other and I just wanted to be sure. tomorrow I will do a little drilling and grinding like other rivets. I thought I had posted this question earlier but could not find it. anyway thanks!

10-04-2015, 03:42 PM	#6
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Re: front brake shaft housing question Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Hi Larry, It was very customary in years gone by to have a very "sharp" cold chisel on hand to "easily" cut off and remove heads of rivets or remove hammered tails of rivets. Once the sheared shank is exposed, it can be driven out with a punch with a "flat" end preferably only a little smaller in diameter than that of the rivet's shank. Before shank removal ...... and/or the minute the shank moves a few thousandths of an inch .......... spraying both ends with WD-40 helps it to slide out. One can imagine how this connection would never work as well through the ages with a bolt ........ rivets fill the drilled hole in the shaft solidly to prevent even the slightest of joint movement and/or wear ......... some of our ancestors ......... even without any formal education whatsoever .......... had great mechanical and structural engineering common sense minds which can be very much respected and appreciated today in 2015. Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 10-04-2015 at 03:43 PM. Reason: typo

10-05-2015, 08:26 AM	#8
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,556	Re: front brake shaft housing question The holes are slightly off and would have to be redrilled to a larger size, this is why the pin is used, by compressing it the shank of the pin is swelled into the holes filling them ,preventing movement, also making it hard to just punch the pin out when just the heads are removed---I don't just pein the ends, i compress the pin in a large heavy vise or hydraulic press then form the head of the pin I don't consider modern fittings an upgrade, the original fittings are quicker and cleaner to use with the proper grease gun, only needing one hand while the other holds arag to clean the fittings--aim and push with one hand

10-05-2015, 08:32 AM	#9
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: front brake shaft housing question i wouldnt use a roll pin as they are hollow spring steel, we are talking about brakes here Last edited by Mitch//pa; 10-05-2015 at 10:09 AM.

10-05-2015, 10:52 PM	#12
bdave_mcc Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: McCalla, AL Posts: 181	Re: front brake shaft housing question what mitch said...ive got roll pins in shafts and couplers but they are only to prevent the joint from sliding apart and they are also splined or keyed to take the rotational force, your brake parts don't have any key or spline(except emergency brake levers)that I know of, the pin takes on all of the force. Also the holes may not be perfect, you want that joint to be solid and not have any play. So the swelled up rivet takes up the space. BTW they are not fun to get out no matter how you go about it.

10-05-2015, 10:55 PM	#13
bdave_mcc Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: McCalla, AL Posts: 181	Re: front brake shaft housing question But I have to ask...why tear it all apart to put those fittings in rather than just using the press in style fittings the vendors sell? Pull your old ones out, press the new ones in and done.