Bent head stud on a 59AB

[russcc]

Suggestions for straightening a bent head stud. Using a machinist square and measuring the distances between the studs, one of the studs in the 2nd row from the top is clearly bent. The studs have been in there for at least 50-60 years, and in my experience, don't exactly want to leave their happy home. I have used heating and cooling cycles on head studs in the past, with successes and failures. I would like to straighten this stud in place rather than trying to getting it out to replace it. Should I do it cold with section of pipe, or heat it cherry at the base and tweak it. Need about .060 to .100 thousands movement at the top of the stud. Thank you Fordbarners.

[Fordors]

If it was mine I would just bop it around with a soft hammer; hit and check, etc. Use the machinist's square to check the perpendicularity to the deck and decide where to hit first.

[petehoovie]

A long pipe with an inside diameter just a little bigger than the diameter of the stud might do the job. Slip the pipe over the stud and gently apply pressure in the direction that will straighten the stud....

[Phil Gillespie]

I should fit an old head nut, you no longer need to the stud to be straightened. Then you can set the flat of the nut in the direction you want to straighten. Hit with a good weight hammer. The stud will move/straighten and at the same time the thread is protected.
Phil NZ

[russcc]

Thank you all for your ideas. I felt cold was the way to do it, and that a tap with the brass hammer would do it. The head stud nut is a good idea for protecting the thread. Will report back the results.

[supereal]

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Banging or bending a bent head stud can ruin a block. If it doesn't break, it is likely the thread seal will be lost. If you don't have a good stud puller, have a machine shop do it.

[WestCoast]

head studs don't like being bent or straightend,, the metal is compromised and will break sooner or later, most likely sooner, if you cant get it out your self let a machinest do it, cheaper and safer in the long run, don't want it to break 100 miles from home

[done4]

^what he said.

[Russ/40]

Just use the pipe over the stud. No need to be banging on it. Just have a head gasket available to check the top. You should be able to drop the head gasket on the top of the studs and easily shimmy it down to the block surface. If you can do that, the head will go on fine. Done it multiple times. Don't need to over think it.

[Bulligen]

Yes, I have bent them back straight many time with a few konks of a hammer, it doesn't take much. I have done it to Model A Engines as well with good results every time.

[Brian]

Me too...invariably, every engine I build I need to 'fine tune' the studs in order to allow heads and gaskets to drop on; no wiggling- drop on. Part of the process, as is subsequently coating each and every stud with nickel based anti-seize prior to fitting the aluminum heads. Years down the track, those same heads will come off.

[russcc]

New post, removing head studs from the block.

[Dodge]

I've smacked plenty around with a hammer over the years to get the head to go off and on easily with no problems.

[russcc]

In respect to anti-seize, I understand that aviation grade graphite and petrolatum is the recommended product for steel in aluminum. The GP AS was designed to prevent steel spark plugs from seizing or galling in aluminum aircraft engine cylinder heads. Got mine from McMaster Carr.