Found clutch problem

[1930artdeco]

I was coming back from Hot August Nights and was going to visit the Aunt in Sacramento. Well she suddenly would not go into gear-at all. I had to jamb her into first so I decided nope going home after getting gas. Nope. After filling up that was all she wrote.

So I did what every Model Aer does I reached out to the local club and several Capitol Aers came out to lend a hand. While I was trying to adjust the fingers on the clutch which were out of whack in various ways we heard a bang. Then the phone came out and 1-800-AAA.....

Anyhow I got time to tear Barbara apart and here is what I found.
#1 Clearly shows why the TO Bearing won't move
#2 Shows the clutch in the car with one finger (at 12 oclock) really sunk way down. I am not able to get it to even move.
#3 Not sure if this contributed but the TO Bearing spins freely but a little rattely.
#4 The disk is fine and still quite usable but I bought a new one so I will install that with a new cover plate and bearings.

Mike

[Patrick L.]

Ooops, looks like some new parts are needed. At least you found the problem quickly and it should be back on the road soon.

[Tom Endy]

While you have it apart it would be prudent to change out the clutch disk you have installed. A few years ago all the suppliers were offering the disk you have that does not have spring retainers and they are prone to pop out and jam the clutch.

Bratton's has the type shown in the photo with the spring retainers. Part number 11400, $34.70.

Tom Endt

[50B]

Mike:
Glade you found the problem.
Get the new clutch release shaft arm on PG 52 #11270 in Brattion's catalog.

Jerry = 50B= Capitol A's

[Bob/Kansas City]

And change your pilot bearing while you're at it... you'll be glad you did.

[1930artdeco]

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I already have a new set of bearings and a disk from Bert's sitting on the bench. I just have to order a new cover plate, and arm. I have a bell housing that I can swap out with a cast arm on it already but I am tempted to just go with the repo welded one, are they any good? There just is no telling about the original cast one. Will it/will it not break in the future?

Mike

[J Franklin]

Everything breaks in the future!

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

I am tempted to just go with the repo welded one, are they any good?

Mike

Mike, I replaced mine with a new repo welded one ~1 year ago because mine cracked just like yours. I like the new ones, they are a little longer, giving you more leverage so it is easier to push in the clutch which is a good thing when double clutch power shifting with old tired legs...

[P.S.]

Mike- Good work, OM!

There is a spare clutch arm in The General's road spares kit. If you go with the original type, then I suggest you also carry a spare. If you choose to go with the welded repro type, then no spare necessary. They are tougher than originals.

Good decision on replacing the disk as a matter of policy any time you have that apart like you do. Looks like your pressure plate has seen better days also. Make sure to use the grade 8 (or whatever it is) bolts to reattach.

Good suggestion above to replace the pilot bearing also. It's cheap, and easy to do at this point. Money in the bank.

If you guys tour out this way and you need a Model A to use while Barbara is down, come get my tudor and use it.

[H. L. Chauvin]

FWIW:

Mr. Endy "always" has very keen, precise, and very valuable observations and suggestions.

Nothing like having bad luck with removing an engine and replacing a clutch plate because of a result of a dumb clutch plate spring retainer design.

Thanks.

[1930artdeco]

Ok I have ordered an all new clutch and parts that go with it. But I just thought of something, the clutch pressure plate is one of those brand new ones. does anyone have any experience with them? Are they made in the USA, do they hold up vs. having my old one rebuilt?

Mike

[DJ S]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

Ok I have ordered an all new clutch and parts that go with it. But I just thought of something, the clutch pressure plate is one of those brand new ones. does anyone have any experience with them? Are they made in the USA, do they hold up vs. having my old one rebuilt?

Mike

Tam's suggests that you have your pressure plate rebuilt. I have no idea where you ordered your pressure plate from but Tam's sells imported reproduction pressure plates.

I don't have any first hand experience with reproduction pressure plates, but as always, you're most likely better off having original parts rebuilt if possible.

[1930artdeco]

I have a used pressure plate that needs to be resurfaced. Is there attest I can do to make sure the springs are good? I am going to send the one I bought back just because I do t really trust Chinese made things.

Mike

[1931 flamingo]

Try Fort Wayne Clutch. Do a search on the EV8 forum. They are highly recommended.
Paul in CT

[1930artdeco]

Ok I have a new pressure plate ready to go. However, there is just a slight lip on the outside of where the disk rides. Does it need to be surfaced? I can just barely feel it. The reason I ask is I am having a hard time finding some one to surface it.

Mike

[Patrick L.]

There is a ridge on the new pressure plate ? It should be ready to go except for checking finger height adjustment. As long as you barely feel it, I don't think I'd worry about it.
I would recommend putting the assembly together on the bench and make sure the finger heights are correct to within .002"

[Mitch//pa]

I would resurface the flywheel not so much for the ridge but to prevent chatter...
if its worn enough to have a ridge most likely its out of runout spec also

There must be someone local to clean it up. It's a lot of work to risk doing twice

[Tom Endy]

If you plan to have the clutch surface of the flywheel re-surfaced there are several things to consider. First I would also have it balanced at the same time. The step where the pressure plate bolts has a factory dimension between the step and the clutch surface that is 1.123" . Have the machinist restore this dimension by also taking a cut on the step. It is also possible that the clutch surface has been resurfaced in the past, maybe several times. This could put the springs on the clutch disk close to the four bolts that hold the flywheel to the crank. I always check this by putting chalk on the four bolt heads then lay the disk flat against the flywheel and rotate it and see if any chalk comes off on the springs.

It is also prudent to adjust the fingers on the pressure plate to the proper distance. Don't believe that they come factory adjusted. There is an article explaining how to make the adjustment that might be helpful.

Go to the web site of the Santa Anita A's of Arcadia, California at www.santaanitaas.org. On the home page put your cursor on "Technical Reference", my name will appear below, click on it and a new menu will come up. Scroll down to transmission, and then to clutch adjustment. It is a PDF file, you are welcome to download it and print it out.

Tom Endy