The Ford Barn

V12Bill · 07-07-2015, 11:07 AM

My 1939 PU came with an Argentina replacement lock. It worked fine, but I wanted to code my ignition and door locks the same and the repop ignition lock had different lands and grooves. I have finished the restoration and came upon a Ford ignition lock cylinder that fits and only needed to be re coded to the door key. The new lock is recoded and installed, but when indexed properly to the old lock pin(1/4") I can not remove the key. If I rotate the lock cylinder beyond the proper index, I can remove the key, but cannot unlock the ignition. At the top of the column drop I can feel the slide move up and down as the key turns. It appears that the slide is made of hardened metal and has little wear. The back of the "new" ignition lock appears to have very little wear. The lock cylinder removed from the drop turns 180*, but appears to turn only about 170* when installed, not allowing the key to be removed.
To remove the column drop I have to remove the steering box from the frame to remove the horn rod and the steering wheel and then the column jacket. Needless to say I don't want to go this far. I have done a search and do not see any information on the 1939 column drop mechanism. Does anyone have any info on what could be my problem removing the key?

Kahuna · 07-07-2015, 12:16 PM

Bill
The only thing I can suggest is to try to rotate the steering column tube and see if that makes a difference.
I had a similar problem using a 36 column drop in a 32 Ford. By rotating the tube slightly, I was able to make the thing work (remove the key and have the lock work properly).
Just a thought

Terry,OH · 07-07-2015, 02:39 PM

It would appear the slide bolt is hanging up and not allowing the lock cylinder to rotate properly.

V12Bill · 07-07-2015, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

It would appear the slide bolt is hanging up and not allowing the lock cylinder to rotate properly.

I had thought of that, but when I turn the key I can feel the slide bolt move up and down at the top of the column drop. I tend to go with what Kahuna said about rotating the column jacket. I did make up a new jacket and I may have been off on the holes that lead to the column lock. If I can get the shear bolt out I will try that. It's harder to weld a nut on the end of the shear bolt while the column is in the car.

Kahuna · 07-07-2015, 04:25 PM

Bill
Re the shear bolt. I use an allen head bolt and reduce the head diameter to fit in the drop.
I know it's not original, but sure makes it easy to remove.

Ken/Alabama · 07-07-2015, 10:18 PM

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Bill I had the same problem with my 39 Zephyr . I removed the NOS lock cyl and compared it to the old one and found that when I turn the key to the locked position on both of them the cam on the end was at a different orientation from one to another. Im thinking there is a difference between the lock cyls depending on if the locking bolt works in the verticle position ,such as yours and my Zephyr, and the horizonal bolt like the 40 and up has. My lock cyls in my comparison were all Hurd locks.

07-07-2015, 11:07 AM	#1
V12Bill Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mt. Holly,NJ Posts: 1,822	1939 Column Drop/lock My 1939 PU came with an Argentina replacement lock. It worked fine, but I wanted to code my ignition and door locks the same and the repop ignition lock had different lands and grooves. I have finished the restoration and came upon a Ford ignition lock cylinder that fits and only needed to be re coded to the door key. The new lock is recoded and installed, but when indexed properly to the old lock pin(1/4") I can not remove the key. If I rotate the lock cylinder beyond the proper index, I can remove the key, but cannot unlock the ignition. At the top of the column drop I can feel the slide move up and down as the key turns. It appears that the slide is made of hardened metal and has little wear. The back of the "new" ignition lock appears to have very little wear. The lock cylinder removed from the drop turns 180, but appears to turn only about 170 when installed, not allowing the key to be removed. To remove the column drop I have to remove the steering box from the frame to remove the horn rod and the steering wheel and then the column jacket. Needless to say I don't want to go this far. I have done a search and do not see any information on the 1939 column drop mechanism. Does anyone have any info on what could be my problem removing the key?

07-07-2015, 12:16 PM	#2
Kahuna Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NorCal Posts: 2,617	Re: 1939 Column Drop/lock Bill The only thing I can suggest is to try to rotate the steering column tube and see if that makes a difference. I had a similar problem using a 36 column drop in a 32 Ford. By rotating the tube slightly, I was able to make the thing work (remove the key and have the lock work properly). Just a thought

07-07-2015, 02:39 PM	#3
Terry,OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 5,187	Re: 1939 Column Drop/lock It would appear the slide bolt is hanging up and not allowing the lock cylinder to rotate properly.

07-07-2015, 04:25 PM	#5
Kahuna Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NorCal Posts: 2,617	Re: 1939 Column Drop/lock Bill Re the shear bolt. I use an allen head bolt and reduce the head diameter to fit in the drop. I know it's not original, but sure makes it easy to remove.

07-07-2015, 10:18 PM	#6
Ken/Alabama Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 3,394	Re: 1939 Column Drop/lock Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Bill I had the same problem with my 39 Zephyr . I removed the NOS lock cyl and compared it to the old one and found that when I turn the key to the locked position on both of them the cam on the end was at a different orientation from one to another. Im thinking there is a difference between the lock cyls depending on if the locking bolt works in the verticle position ,such as yours and my Zephyr, and the horizonal bolt like the 40 and up has. My lock cyls in my comparison were all Hurd locks.