32 Engine fine tune & assembly

[KiWinUS]

I have this rebuilt 32 block crank rods /pistons that has been rebuilt but never run & been sitting in dry storage for many many years . I do not know who did the work but for the most parts it looks excellent . I dismantled it to check clearances , clean lube & assemble complete with valve train & then sell it. It has a brand new Babbitt mains , crank .030 on rods & mains , .040 new bore & pistons , rebuilt rods . I decided to balance the rotating assembly while it is apart .Good thing I did , rods & pistons were very very close , but crankshaft was way way out as was flywheel . Several hours of work yesterday & now balance is perfect !!!
I would like some opinions as to lifters , the block has been drilled for adjustable lifters . Being its a stock 1 year only beautiful 32 engine , should I use adjustable lifters or stock non adjustable lifters ? I have the tools & experience to go with either . I have a very nice stock "Steel" (32 only) camshaft , I will not put one of the so awesome KiWi-L100 camshafts that I sell in this engine .
C,mon guys what are your opinions ? Also aluminum timing gear or fiber ? I have both .
I will take pics & learn how to post them as this build progresses .
Thanks
Cheers
Tony

[DavidG]

How about being brave and using the big original '32-'33 valve springs and guides with the built-in lip? All of my '32 and '33 V8 engines have been restored that way.

[Brian]

Tony, I'd use the stock hollow lifters in it. As the camshaft runs directly in the block [no replaceable bearings], I'd check the cam clearance, before you put it all back together. You don't want to lose oil pressure cause of sloppy camshaft fit!

[KiWinUS]

DavidG I have the correct 32 NOS guides , will have to find springs .
Thanks

Brian , thanks , I will certainly check that . I also have a set of NOS stock hollow lifters
Cheers
Tony

[Bored&Stroked]

Hey Gang: I'm just heading down the same route as Tony - stock 32 V8 build. I was pondering the adjustable lifters versus stock. If somebody has a NOS or super nice set of stock lifters, I'd be up for going that route and doing it the good ole' fashioned way. Anybody?

Thanks!

[Bored&Stroked]

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Align Boring the Cam Bearings: Has anybody ever align bored the cam tunnel for replaceable bearings? I've been pondering whether or not to 'upgrade' the 32 block?

[Lawrie]

Tony,go with the original non adjustable lifters,lighter ,and you will feel better, I,m sure you will have access to some gear to grind the valves or seats to set them,
Lawrie

[DavidG]

KiWinUS,

I'm away from my car stuff until early next month, but if you aren't in a hurry, I may have some extra large springs. Do you have the spring keepers?

Bored&Stroked,

One of my '32 blocks did require line boring and the addition of camshaft bearings.

[Tom Walker]

KiWinUs
When you said your crankshaft was way out of balance, can you run through the balancing process please?

[KiWinUS]

Lawrie I dug out my NOS orig lifters & have all my own valve equipment so no prob setting them correctly.
B&S Sorry I only have 1 set of NOS lifters

DavidG , I may be able to wait , I would also need the retainers for the big springs .
Thanks for all the help guys !!!

Any other tips for assembly of the Babbit engine much appreciated as I have not built a babbit v8 before .

Tom we used a Sunnen engine balancer , I did all the work as my great friend that owns the machine gave me directions .
Turning the flywheel 1/2 a turn made a huge difference , then only needed a 3/8 hole 1" deep to get it perfect.
Thanks again to all !
Cheers
Tony

[motordr]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Align Boring the Cam Bearings: Has anybody ever align bored the cam tunnel for replaceable bearings? I've been pondering whether or not to 'upgrade' the 32 block?

I have a 32 V8 and an early 33 V8 transition block that both have cam bearings. Both are also Canadian blocks that must have been line bored for cam bearings during a previous rebuild.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by motordr

I have a 32 V8 and an early 33 V8 transition block that both have cam bearings. Both are also Canadian blocks that must have been line bored for cam bearings during a previous rebuild.

Thanks! My block is good (cam bores), but I'm thinking of putting bearings in it anyway - as it will make it more serviceable in the future. Truth be told, I'm building this engine for "the next guy" - not for me. It is so hard to find the correct 32-only parts, figured it better do it now and get it done.

Hey - anybody have an 'extra' 32 tall coil? I need one for my 32 distributor and having a heck of a time finding one. The condition of the electronics is not the issue - will have it refurbed . . .

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by Tom Walker

KiWinUs
When you said your crankshaft was way out of balance, can you run through the balancing process please?

It is really not a case of the crankshaft being way out of balance - it is the whole lower rotating assembly. Here is the basic process - I'll try to keep it short:

First: Component Pieces:

1) The rods are first rebuilt (if used rods).

A) Big Ends: Using a rod balancing scale, the big end weights are recorded - then material is removed from the big ends to match the weight of the lightest rod. Henry removed material around the edge of the big-end cap . . . not by grinding the bottom of the cap like most machines shops do. Note: Flathead rods do not have 'balance pads' to remove material from - like modern rods do. See the picture below - see where somebody ground the cap ribs on the bottom - really weakens the cap:

CapGrindingExample.jpg

So, it is important to remove material like you're supposed to. Here is a picture of a 'jig' I made to do this in my lathe - along with a 'balanced' 21A rod:

2015-02-02 21.34.39 copy.jpg

2015-02-07 19.33.56 copy.jpg

2015-02-10 13.16.06 copy.jpg

B) Pin Ends: Using the same scale, the pin ends are weighed on all rods - again, material is removed to make the pin ends weigh the same as the lightest rod.

2) Pistons: All pistons are weighed on a gram scale - and material is removed to make them all match the weight of the lightest.

Rotating Assembly:

3) Bob Weight: A 'bob weight' is a calculated figured that is comprised of both 'rotating' and 'reciprocating' weights (on the rod journals). I won't get into to details, but is is calculated using weights of the now balanced rods, pistons, pins, rings and bearings. The weight is used when balancing the crank (as it has a bob weight as well) - to determine whether or not material needs to be removed or added to balance the crank. If material is added, sometimes it is done by welding up a prior hole in the crank counterweights, or 'heavy' Malory metal plugs might be added.

4) Flywheel and Clutch: These components are important as well and must be included in the balancing mix. The flathead is an 'internally balanced' engine, there isn't an external 'counter weight' used on the flywheel or harmonic balancer like in smallblock Fords. So, the individual components can be independently 'zero balanced' and/or done as an assembly (flywheel and clutch together). Folks have their own opinions on this. In my case, even if I have the flywheel and clutch zero balanced as single components, I still want to have the guy doing the work assemble the flywheel and clutch to the crank and validate the whole assembly (on the balancer) and mark down the 'index' locations (clocking and assembly points) for all components. I will put the engine together in exactly the same manner - to guarantee the balance is spot on.

5) Harmonic Balancers and Crank Pulleys: On engines with harmonic balancers, they are included in the mix - some may be part of an 'externally balanced' assembly, some are not. On cast iron or multi-belt flathead crank pulleys, isn't a bad idea to have them at least checked for balance and and zero balanced.

Okay - enough balance babble!

B&S

[KiWinUS]

Well written B&S
Thanks

[Tom Walker]

Thank you very much for the excellent explanation.
Tony, why did you balance the crank on its own without the bob weights etc?

[KiWinUS]

Originally Posted by Tom Walker

Thank you very much for the excellent explanation.
Tony, why did you balance the crank on its own without the bob weights etc?

Tom
The only way to balance the crank is with bob weights
We balanced my engine using the exact process B&S layed out , that is pretty much the standard for balancing .
Cheers
Tony

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Align Boring the Cam Bearings: Has anybody ever align bored the cam tunnel for replaceable bearings? I've been pondering whether or not to 'upgrade' the 32 block?

Hi Dale
Yep did that for the race block the local machine shop I work with has an ancient machine that's long enough to do the job. Its a slow process but the final result is perfect.
Ron

[Ian NZ]

I have a set of N.O.S 1932 Valve guides if anybody is interested , I no longer require them.