Headlight disconnect

[Redbird]

I am trying to remove the radiator for the first time and need a little help. Hood is off, radiator drained, hoses disconnected, horn wire disconnected. I need to unplug the headlights to pull the wire out of the conduit and radiator shell. How do you unplug/disconnect the headlights? See pic attached.
John

[msmaron]

To remove where you are showing, twist the outer ring and it will drop down., You should remove the front rims with the lens to see if you have the 2 words wired tired to be able to remove them. There is a little latch under the headlight rim that has a spring and when you push back from standing in front of the car it will come loose and pivot down, then you can remove the rims, lens, bulb and the reflectors,. DO NOT touch the reflector with your hand and get oils on it.. use a soft cloth and then you can see behind where the wires are...Good luck...

[CarlG]

If your headlights haven't been re-wired (many of them have), just twist the ferrule at the base of the bucket counter clockwise about an eighth of a turn and it should pull right out. If they have been re-wired, it's anybody's guess as to how they are, but most probably you will have to go at it from the front by removing the lens and reflector.

(Mark is a faster typist)

[Redbird]

Headlights have not been rewired. They had the twist off as you said. The radiator is out and any all screws/parts are soaking in EvapoRust. Should the screws that hold the radiator shell on have the square nuts? One side did and one had hex nuts. I will take the radiator to the shop tomorrow or Monday and let them work their magic, being careful not to use over 4 lbs pressure to test.

[Mitch//pa]

Yes square nuts

[Redbird]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Thank you Mitch.

[Goldhardt]

Hey Redbird, after looking at your 3rd picture, you may to put a piece of felt on your radiator apron. Now's the time since you have the radiator and shell off.



Felt Pads

For the front radiator splash apron. Rivet or glue to the splash apron to prevent rattles between the apron and radiator shell. The 1928-29 models use two and the 1930/31 use only one. U.S.A.
Part Number: A-16529-AS 1928-29 $1.25 / pr.
A-16529-BS 1930-31 $0.75 / ea.

[J Franklin]

Also, now is a great time to give the engine a new shot of genuine Ford model A green paint. Never an easier time!

[Redbird]

Goldhart, I'll take one of the 30/31 felts if you are selling. Do the auto parts stores carry the Ford green paint?

[John Duden]

the parts houses carry the felts and the paint, I would recomend powerwashing the block down and drying off very good, Take any loose paint off with a power washer and a steel wire brush. then when good and dry, take a can of engine paint and Brush paint it,
John

[Goldhardt]

Originally Posted by Redbird

Goldhart, I'll take one of the 30/31 felts if you are selling. Do the auto parts stores carry the Ford green paint?

Redbird, I'm not a seller or anything like that. I copied the picture and prices from the Snyder's website. I do know that they also sell the Ford green engine paint. Other places sell them as well, but I use them quite a bit because they are one of the closest suppliers to me.
Not trying to sell you anything, just spending your money!

[Redbird]

Thanks.