Tig or Mig panels

[CSArno]

Just looking at welders and wanted some input on what welding process works best. I have a big old Mig that works good on big stuff. In the past I have used a small Hobart mig welder that worked really well on panels (lost that one in a fire) Best mig welder I ever used was a Snap On. Could only "try it out" for so long..

Anyway, I am interested in getting a Tig welder and wanted some input on how well they work on panels. Would like to be able to weld aluminum also. I have never used a Tig before.
I have gas welded using wire coat hangers for rod though. Lol.

Thanks,
Chris

[deuce_roadster]

For an experienced welder, a TIG works well, not for a beginner though. Put some EasyGrind wire in the MIG and use it. This wire is soft enough to work the panel when done.

[cmbrucew]

For TIG you need good eyes and a steady hand. You can weld aluminum with MIG.
Does a nice job. I have used my Miller Matic 200 with the spot panel for many years.
I believe GM was involved with Snap On machines.
Bruce

[Tony, NY]

For panels using TIG you need good fitment between pieces, very clean pieces and practice. I believe every car builder, restorer should have one as well as a MIG. You can weld aluminum with MIG. I have a spool gun just for aluminum but hardly ever use it because the TIG is easier to setup and use, more me anyway. A pulser on the TIG would be nice for thin stuff. Seems Millers are popular with the car guys.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by CSArno

Just looking at welders and wanted some input on what welding process works best. I have a big old Mig that works good on big stuff. In the past I have used a small Hobart mig welder that worked really well on panels (lost that one in a fire) Best mig welder I ever used was a Snap On. Could only "try it out" for so long..

Anyway, I am interested in getting a Tig welder and wanted some input on how well they work on panels. Would like to be able to weld aluminum also. I have never used a Tig before.
I have gas welded using wire coat hangers for rod though. Lol.

Thanks,
Chris

Chris your "big old MIG" will do the same small low heat welding as a newer small unit. The size and speed of the welding wire determines the amperage when welding. You will need the correct drive rolls for the wire you want to use. I suggest you try .030 wire, 75/25 gas in your present gun. If your welder has a volt meter pull the trigger and set the voltage without welding at 18 volts this is open circuit volts (OCV). the voltage when welding is called arc volts. Set the wire feed speed at about 1/3 of the dial. Set the gas flow to about 18 on the ball in the flow tube, grind a thin piece of steel clean with the ground clamp tight on clean metal. strike an arc with a slight dragging of the wire which should cut off to remove the oxidized ball that forms when the last weld is stopped. If the wire stubs the work and won't start slow the wire feed until an arc will start. The wire feed should be adjusted with the end of the contact tip 1/2 to 5/8" away from the work. Adjust the wire feed until it sounds like bacon frying. If it's to hot for the metal being welded turn the voltage down a little and readjust the wire feed until you get the heat wanted. On very thin metal you may have to go to .023 wire. If you get in the range you want you may want to buy a smaller light weight gun and cable assembly. I designed and built the
Snap On welders for them over 45 years ago, sold the company 32 years ago and they are still making them today. Glad you liked it. G.M.

[Vics Stuff]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I use a miller matic 250 mig unit. I push .023 steel wire through it for body panel repair. You still have to remember to spot weld the parts and allow sufficient time for each spot to cool. Otherwise you are going to have some seriously warped panels. I use 75/25 gas
Vic

[JWL]

It has already been stated the fitment and cleanliness requirements of TIG are significant. But, so too are the operator skill level and stamina. When compared to MIG it is a slow, demanding, process.

One of the best systems for panel welding is the Hobart 250 MIG with stitch and spot features. Like "Vic", I recommend installing drive rollers, cable liner, and gun tip for .023 wire. I use only a 10' cable length for the small wire.

Although I have a spool gun for aluminum MIG welding I have not used it for a couple of years. There is no substitute for the Lincoln TIG welder with adjustable pulsing for joining almost any metal type or thickness.

[flatmotor40]

I use a mig to tack then use tig for all welds with 1/16 tungsten and use 030 mig wire for rod and sometime use 023 for the tig use.Also use silica bronze because it flows at a lower temp for tig

[flatmotor40]

I forgot I use a Hobart cyber-tig 300 amp and I use a Eastwood small 110 volt mig

[cmbrucew]

GM
Are you familiar with Millers spot panel? you are able to set the pulse rate.
I believe some later built welders have that feature built in.
Bruce

[CSArno]

G.M. That's pretty neat that you designed and built those welders. Was the best one that I have ever used. I don't remember the model of it but it was pretty good size. Was all on wheels and would take a large tank. I remember it had a "fill mode" where it would heat the wire just enough to semi melt it to fill big holes. Was a late 80's machine.

I'm going to mess around with the Mig we have now to see what it will do on sheet metal. its a 250 amp Airco machine.

Still would like to get a Tig and plasma cutter though..

Thanks for the info everyone.

[Ronnie]

Both have a place in body panel work.The biggest hurdle you will face is controlling the warping of the panel.Tig will drive you crazy until you begin to learn the properties of how the preparation and fitment of the panel comes into play.You will get many posts about how the members have done their own panels.A tig can be as simple as a scratch start torch on an old dc tombstone machine. A tig that will make the job much easier to control won't be cheap.The starting amps should at least start at 5 amps and go up with a foot pedal.On the other hand a middle of the road mig for body panels are used every day in body shops across the nation.There is a learning curve with tig that you will have to get seat tine to learn the process.You will get an acceptable weld with a mig.Myself i own a miller dynasty 200dx and a water cooled 20 series torch.It is way more machine than you need but it makes welding thin panels and repair a dream.Have done many repairs on small brackets and panels for old ford projects for a couple of my close friends and the end products have a pleasing results.I believe what you need is a good Lincoln or Miller mig.Enough of this rambling post.

R

[waterboychuck]

If you want to learn more about TIG welding here's a site.
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/tig-welding.html

[51 MERC-CT]

With the correct settings an practice. practice and more practice you will succeed.
For example this was done using a Miller 'Sidekick' Mig. when I replaced my 'barn door' gas flap with a round one.

[CSArno]

I have done panels with a Mig in the past. Have done rear quarter panels on a 65 Mustang and a bunch of other stuff with good results. Try not warping the hell out of a Mustang rear quarter that takes 6ft + of welding on the top. Major patience required.. Just have never used a Tig before. What I am reading is a Tig takes less heat to use which would be better with less warpage.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by cmbrucew

GM
Are you familiar with Millers spot panel? you are able to set the pulse rate.
I believe some later built welders have that feature built in.
Bruce

I'm not familiar with current MIG or TIG machines, I have been away from it over 30 years. I am familiar with spot panels, on our standard wire feeder 45 years ago there was a provision to add a spot timer. If I recall there were 3 adjustments, run in speed so the wire came in slow so it didn't stumble when the wire hit the work then a sensing coil around the welding cable in the feeder to pick the wire speed up to the welding speed. Then there was a control that controlled the length of weld time plus a burn back timer that held the arc on for an adjustable short time after the wire stopped. This burnt the wire off short so it wouldn't stick to the work and was ready for the next weld. When we got into body shop MIG's we had similar controls but a stitch mode where it would weld for say 1/2" shut off for maybe a second which was adjustable then start another short weld. This can be perhaps better by manually releasing the gun trigger as required. Filling holes you can watch the color of the weld puddle. The weld will be a bright yellowish orange and on thin metal will turn into a dripping ball of hot metal. Watch the color close and release the trigger keeping the weld wire at the same position and when the ball gets dark as it starts to solidify give it another little shot of weld. With a little practice you can fill some fairly large holes. The trick is to move around to different areas, do short welds and never get the work to hot. G.M.

[prpmmp]

http://www.trifive.com/forums/showth...mig+butt+weldshttp://www.trifive.com/forums/showth...ight=butt+weld Do a search on Roberts threads,He is amazing and a good teacher!! Pete

[39portlander]

Chris, I bought a Miller MIG 180 auto set last year after saving for sometime and love it. I'm in Portland if your in the area sometime to check it out. The 180 offers an aluminum spool gun as well. I like the Miller also because of that Ford blue.

The Miller 180 is so easy to use, my 4 year old grandson could weld with it. The best deal on Millers for me was Lnynox here in Portland and Bangor, good luck. Scott

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

With the correct settings an practice. practice and more practice you will succeed.
For example this was done using a Miller 'Sidekick' Mig. when I replaced my 'barn door' gas flap with a round one.

Nice work. So, to confirm, you tacked it in with a MIG and finished it with gas welding?

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Nice work. So, to confirm, you tacked it in with a MIG and finished it with gas welding?

All done with MIG. Heated as necessary to hammer and shrink.
Back in the 50's I would have totally welded this with Gas.