Wheel bearing torque wrench

[Keith True]

With people talking about torque specs,I remembered this wrench I got from an old fellow.He had mostly GM cars,and they had ball bearings in the front,not roller.This tool specifies BALL wheel bearings.You can't read it in the picture,but it tells you to tighten until the needle hits a certain number,then back off and tighten to another number.I tried it on the tapered roller bearings in an A,if you follow those directions the bearings are locked up.I guess it only works for ball bearings.

[RonC]

This is how Ford specified wheel bearing adjustment in the Jan and April 1928 Service Bulletins

"Adjusting Front Wheel Bearing

If there is excessive play in the bearing it can be adjusted as follows: Remove wheel. Withdraw cotter key and tighten adjusting nut until the hub just starts to bind. Then back off the adjusting nut one or two notches until the hub can be freely revolved. Before replacing the wheel, be sure to insert cotter key in adjusting nut.

Important Information on Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment

1. See that front hub, inner and outer bearings are packed with grease.

2. Front hub grease retainer and lock washer should slide over threads on spindle body with fingers (loose fit).

3. Install nut, tighten same so that all component parts are pulled together snugly; that is, inner and outer bearings will be snug in cones, lock washer tight against roller bearing, and nut tight against lock washer. Grasp drum at top and bottom, apply side strain; see that bearings are tight in wheel hub with no side play. (A slight drag will be noticeable when drum is turned.) Not over eight or ten pounds' pressure is required on speed wrench to get these results.

4. Turn nut back two castle slots (this is approximately 1/4 turn of nut); insert cotter pin and try bearings for a slight side play and a free spinning wheel."

[RonC]

The key is slight side play hardly noticeable

[40 Deluxe]

Agree, no preload on a grease-packed tapered roller bearing! All you will do is force the grease off of the bearing rollers and races so it runs dry and with the pressure of the preload starts pitting and flaking. Ford specs on the last of their packable front wheel bearings called for .000"-.005" end play without any preload. Step one is to tighten the nut to a specified torque and spin the hub a few revolutions. Step two is to back the nut off to the specified end play. Some guys would skip step two and wonder why the bearings failed!

[Mitch//pa]

interesting here is a recommended modern method on an 82 mustang tapered bearing..

[Keith True]

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I tried this thing on a 55 Chevy with ball bearings in the front.No way would I drive it tightened according the the instructions.It is a well made tool,not junk,but I still feel it was just a gadget.I wonder how many bearings got ruined by somebody following the instructions on that thing,thinking they were doing the right thing.

[Tom Wesenberg]

For those who use a torque wrench, notice step 3 in Mitch's picture calls for INCH pounds, NOT FOOT pounds.

[Mitch//pa]

thats easy enough to do by feel no torque wrench needed for me.. however i would never leave one out the door with .005 or any play...old or new

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

thats easy enough to do by feel no torque wrench needed for me.. however i would never leave one out the door with .005 or any play...old or new

Hey, SLICK, I "taught" you well
Badwrench Bill W.

[jax55]

The "GM tool" looks to me like an inch pound torque wrench. I wonder what's special about this one?

[Tinbasher]

The way I was taught was to tighten up the wheel nut and make it snug. Then back it off 1/4 turn and check the feel of the wheel. Too tight and it will take out the bearing. Too loose and it will takeout the bearing, but just right you're good to go. It's all in the feel!! Do you have the hands??

J.Poole

[40 Deluxe]

"10-12 inch-pounds"-that's one foot-pound or less. That's barely finger tight.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

"10-12 inch-pounds"-that's one foot-pound or less. That's barely finger tight.

Exactly, it's just a repeatable amount so one mechanics feel cannot be different than another.

[J Witt]

Here's what Timken says about adjusting tapered roller bearings, look at the manual adjusting information:

http://www.timken.com/EN-US/Knowledg...r-Bearings.pdf

Note that the bottom line is to shoot for "zero" axial play in the cold condition.

John

[RonC]

Originally Posted by J Witt

Here's what Timken says about adjusting tapered roller bearings, look at the manual adjusting information:

http://www.timken.com/EN-US/Knowledg...r-Bearings.pdf

Note that the bottom line is to shoot for "zero" axial play in the cold condition.

John

Actually it recommends end play at cold and near zero play at operating temperature. Which is what Ford recommended.

To quote Timken "Generally, the ideal operating bearing setting is near- zero to maximize bearing life. Most bearings are set with a cold setting of end play at assembly. This comes as close as possible to the desired near-zero setting when the unit reaches its stabilized operating temperature."