New 35 Hydraulic brake conversion issue..

[CSArno]

Have a new issue with the front brakes on this '35 hydraulic brake conversion... After finally getting the backing plates plug welded, redrilled and installed I find out that the front hubs/drums that I have wont go on far enough to get the spindle nut on..
I understand that '35 front spindles are longer than others?
If anyone has spindle lengths for '35 and others, that might help..
I'm guessing that I have '35 drums and the spindles have been replaced with shorter ones from another year..
Perhaps the guy forgot to give me that basket of parts..
The back ones fit beautifully!
Here are a couple pics to see if anyone knows what I have here.

[CSArno]

Just found out that '35 front hubs won't work with hydraulic brakes. I need 40-42 with drum on the outside and wire wheel supports..
Does this sound right?
Have to go see if that guy missed a basket full of parts...
Anyone have some insight on more problems that I might run in to on this conversion?

[mrtexas]

40-42 squareback spindles will work good. you need the wire wheel supports as well.

[JM 35 Sedan]

This is part of the reason I chose to use '37-'41 round back spindles (as mentioned in your previous post https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161120) on a '35 tudor I converted to hydraulics 8 years ago.
When you mentioned having a Dave Wilton conversion, I thought you would have had the correct hubs/drums and support rings necessary for this conversion.
Actually, '40 to '48 drums should work on those '35 spindles (if they are stock '35's) if you have the correct spacer rings specifically made for this (not talking about the spacer rings you will need for wire wheels).

[rich b]

You have that correct, the '35 hub&drums won't work with juice brakes due to the different offset. Any '40-'48 pass or '40-'47 1/2 ton hub and drum will work on your spindles; but you have to watch the balance weights on later ones with the external hub flange as they will interfere with your '35 wires. Usually have to knock the weights off.

[CSArno]

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Are you talking about the silver spacer shown here behind the backing plate?
I've already dealt with the hole issue by plug welding and re drilling to correct size and position.
I'd really like to find out what I have for spindles and go from there.

[flatheadfan]

CSArno-

The '35 rear drums will work with the later backing plates. The fronts are another problem. You will need 1) the bearing spacer and ring for the spindles (see picture). 2) You will need '40-'48 front drums. 3) If you wish to retain wire wheels you will need the wheel adapter ring (see picture). The rings can be made from 4" cast iron pipe cut to a 0.190 thickness.

Hope this helps.

Tom

[CSArno]

Thanks Tom, great info. I don't see the pictures though. Did they post?

[flatheadfan]

Pictures!--

[CSArno]

Thanks Tom

[flatheadfan]

CSArno-

The reason the cast iron ring is needed is to substitute for original mounting platform. If you note the picture, the '35 wheel rests on pairs of two mounting platforms per bolt hole (marked red). When installed, the spoke wheels on a '40-'48 drum the wheel will rest on the outer edge but there is no platform for the wheel to rest on the inner part of the hub. This leaves an unsupported gap. This is where the iron ring comes into play. When attached to the drum (epoxy/weld) the ring becomes the inner resting platform for the wheel. Without his ring you will have (at best), wobbly wheels or (at worst), cracked mounting holes in the wheel that eventually lead to wheel failure.

Tom

[CSArno]

Tom,
Where is that adaptor kit from that you show in the catalog?

Thanks for the great info, much appreciated,

Chris

[flatheadfan]

Chris-

This is a common repo part just about everyone has it. As for the picture, I believe it was copied from an advertisement (Drake?).

Tom