94 carburetor questions

[Ralph Moore]

Decided that since I'm slowed down a little due to knee surgery and decided that I would finish rebuilding a couple carbs. I have two Chandler- Groves in pretty good shape, but one has a stripped bowl screw. I want to helicoil it , what size do I need? All my good tools are at work, including tap and die sets.
Also anyone remember the # for the power valve block off that Napa sells? I have CRS and can't even remember the brand they sell, maybe Holley?
Thanks,
Ralph

[cmbrucew]

Ralph
Sorry to hear about your knee.
But the carburetor will be easier to fix. Clean real good, and use J B Weld to fill the stripped out hole, then drill and re tap. Good as new.
I do not know if Echlin makes it on not.
Speedy recovery for the knee.
Bruce

[Ralph Moore]

Thanks Bruce,
The more I get into these carbs the more questions I have. I bought three inlet fittings from Speedway for the carbs, two fit perfect, one however is too small for the threads in the carb top. Does not look like they were ever damaged or re drilled , were there different sizes?

[ford38v8]

Ralph, A Chandler Groves is well worth saving. I don't think a helicoil is the best choice for the repair. I think you have two better options available to you. There is and has (almost) always been an adapter bushing for the purpose, which requires the stripped bowl be drilled and tapped for the bushing. This makes an excellent repair, but obviously is not original as Henry Made It, so it could be a small deduction on an EFV8 Concourse if you enter for judging.

The other option would involve the use of JB Weld, an excellent product, but I cannot offer more than second hand testimony on its use in this application.

[tubman]

I repaired a 8BA 94 with a helicoil in the bowl. It worked well and is indetectable as long as you use the original bowl screws. I think I have the drill, tap, and a few inserts left over. I'll check tomorrow if you are interested. (I've got 5 ot 6 spare rebuilt 94's on the shelf and and have since switched to rebuilding vintage 4 BBL's.)

[Ralph Moore]

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Originally Posted by tubman

I repaired a 8BA 94 with a helicoil in the bowl. It worked well and is indetectable as long as you use the original bowl screws. I think I have the drill, tap, and a few inserts left over. I'll check tomorrow if you are interested. (I've got 5 ot 6 spare rebuilt 94's on the shelf and and have since switched to rebuilding vintage 4 BBL's.)

Thanks Tubman,
Yes I'm wanting to keep this one. Let me know if you find them. I use helicoils all the time at work with good results.

[4tford]

Where is KenCT when you need him lol

[uncle max]

10-32 is what the 94's take for top screws, not 10-24 like Strombergs.

Originally Posted by Ralph Moore

Thanks Tubman,
Yes I'm wanting to keep this one. Let me know if you find them. I use helicoils all the time at work with good results.

[oldford2]

Kenct has been banned from this site but I am sure he is lurking. If anyone is seeking his advice or carb parts just include in your post your email or phone and I think you may hear from him.

[lonewolf]

Ive used heli coils on 94's and 97's and they seem stronger than the oem threads. Dont be afraid to use them.

[Bruce Lancaster]

The heli coil sets I have came with some very short thread units perfect for carb lid screws.
They are indeed stronger...I believe that racers doing a thorough preparation of a race car often install heli coils on all critical bolt holes in brand new parts made of aluminum or magnesium to ward off possible future problems.

[Ralph Moore]

Yea, I did head gaskets for a guy on an aluminum Subaru engine , went to torque it down and stripped one of the bolts in the block, tore down, helicoil, and reassemble re torque.
Stripped one again( different one).
Learned the hard way they should have all been done.

[TJ]

You'll find kenct on the V-8 Club website.

[Ralph Moore]

I went out yesterday and purchased a 10-32 helicoil set. Worked very well I think, the proof will be in the running though.
Still looking for those PV block offs , I'm thinking they were probably Mr. Gasket items.

[Mart]

Ralph, maybe a carb expert will chime in, but as far as I know, the PV blockoffs are not a good idea. This is only what I remember reading after following many carb threads on here. I believe that working power valves matched to the vacuum characteristics of the engine are recommended.

Just my opinion.

Mart.

[ford38v8]

Ralph, I misread your question, thinking you meant the fuel inlet. Apparently I was the only one to misunderstand you! My answer still stands, but for the fuel inlet only!

[scooder]

If your gonna run two carbs, get rid of the blocked power valve idea.
I know there is an "expert" out there that says you must do this, but he's talking out of his 90% improved flow rear end.
The story normally goes with 46 jets. Try it if you want, I did it on friends car to prove a point, damn thing would hardly get out of its garage!
I've had good results with stock mains 50-51 and lower rated power valves. It depends on various stuff as for right rating, but 4.5-5.5 is gonna be close.
If you block power valves, you have to increase main jet to compensate, a fair bit too.
trying to save you time and frustration.
Martin.

[scooder]

Forgot this bit, helicoil is the fix for you bowl screws.
Martin.

[flatjack9]

Absolutely do not block off power valves.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 4tford

Where is KenCT when you need him lol

No doubt out in his shop painting carburetors , um, I mean "rebuilding" carburetors... yeah, that's it "rebuilding....