|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Florida - 32128
Posts: 416
|
![]()
In the past few days, I got my new (to me) '30 coupe all organized. Adjusted the brakes, installed signal lights, changed the radiator coolant, the oil, etc. Today my wife and I took it out for our first ride. Went about 30 miles to a restaurant we like. I drove about 35 -45 MPH, checked all components and it ran and drove A OK. All went well until we were on our way home and the "A" started to knock. It is a hard knock under pulling load. Specially going up a hill. If I push the spark advance-up to start mode the knock soothes out. It don't knock under a higher steady RPM. From what I know, it is a main bearing, not a rod. Had my close neighbor, who is an "A" and a "T" owner, to give a look and check my engine. He did so and also, confers it is a main bearing knock.
I will have to find someone in the Spartanburg / Greenville-SC area, who knows and works on Model A Fords. Does anyone have a suggestion ? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: lexington sc
Posts: 456
|
![]()
hello
James Rogers in ashville nc rebuilt my eng runs like new http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...bangers.com%2F kevin 1930 model a tudor 1923 model t roaster p/u |
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Meridian, ID
Posts: 583
|
![]()
Sorry to hear the news... That's no fun, but assuming your car is the avatar pic its a nice looking coupe! It might cost you and hurt a bit to fix, but definitely worth it and you'll get a lot of enjoyment out of the car. I'm not that familiar with engine builders out that way but I believe James Rogers from DreamWorks is relatively in your neck of the woods. He posts on here regularly. I would probably send him a personal message and get his input. Good luck!
__________________
Aaron in T̶a̶c̶o̶m̶a̶ Meridian, Idaho (although still a Montana hillbilly at heart ![]() 1931 Coupe 1931 slant window sedan |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
Posts: 4,610
|
![]()
Drop your pan and check it out first.
The original engine for my truck was loose - and I know from measuring the crankshaft rod journals were egg-shaped. I did the best I could with it. Used plastigauge and set it up (yes I filed the caps) to be as tight as I dared. Each bearing adjusted in turn and each set so it was on the near edge of binding on the newly narrowed rod caps. I drove it like that for quite a while. As it was wont to wear, I went in again and tighted each bearing similarly and again later. One of my last excursions on that engine I wound it up on the highway to typically highway speed. About 15 minutes into that trip it sounded REALLY bad - so I turned around and limped home. Dropping the pan I found one of the rod nuts had come off and was rattling around in the bottom of the oil pan. Made me appreciate how conservatively designed the Model A engine was. Check out that engine - it may be simpler than you think. Joe K
__________________
Shudda kept the horse. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Florida - 32128
Posts: 416
|
![]()
Thanks for the reply notes. I will search around my Spartanburg- SC area a little bit and maybe give Jim Rogers a call. I recently sold my '29 roadster pick-up and I just purchased this coupe. It's nice all the way around. Just rebuilt - frame up and supposedly complete motor job. I sure didn't expect this engine problem to come popping up.
Dave |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Richland Mi.
Posts: 1,172
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Upstate South Carolina
Posts: 794
|
![]()
PM me your phone number and I will try to help you out. Good Luck.
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
|
![]()
pm sent
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2012
Location: inside your RAM
Posts: 3,134
|
![]()
it may not be as bad as you think but the pan has to come down by someone.
I have tightened up a lot of rod and main bearings. On one car the knock was so bad I would have sworn the babbit on the main in question was gone gone gone. To my surprise all the babbits were in superb condition and just needed to be tightened up There are numerous posts here with step-by-step procedures given including a couple by myself. Or, as mentioned above, James Rogers is very close to you if you would rather not check it out yourself. Get a U-Haul trailer and haul it on up there.
__________________
'31 180A |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan / Ontario border, Sarnia, Ontario. 50 miles from Detroit and 150 from Toronto.
Posts: 5,800
|
![]()
[B I have only heard great things about James Rogers.
Wayne's[/B] |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: MN
Posts: 7,063
|
![]()
Ugh that's a bugger.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
|
![]()
Dl,
"Maybe" too much advance on the HILL, causing it to detonate/ping???? Is your gas reasonably "fresh"?
__________________
"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|