Rodding out a radiator

[Afordman31]

Three days ago I took a 30-31 radiator that I had run a few years ago and replaced with a new one because it was plugged up and would overheat.
My Dad said for me to unsolder the top tank being careful not to get everything to hot so as not to unsolder the flues.
I removed the top tank, took a piece of flat stock 1/8" x1/2" milled some off the 1/2" side so it would just slide into the length of the flue opening easily.
I had to thin the 1/8" side also. The length was app. 24 inches long.
There are 102 flues in the radiator. I also used a piece of 1/8" round stock first to open up the radius ends of the flue, followed by the flat stock I made.
After all was clean I flushed the flues and the bottom of the tank out.
I finished melting out the solder that was left from removing the top tank, cleaned everything then used muriatic acid and a acid brush to get it clean.
The next day I put flux on my parts to be joined and began soldering with a turner propane torch, then after the solder sucked into the spot I was soldering I would wipe it with a rag and the joint came out really nice.
I used the same flux and solder that I have used on rigid copper plumbing and this worked really good for the radiator.
The radiator is back on the car with no leaks. Afordman31

[montanafordman]

Nice work! There's not a whole lot I'm afraid of tackling but taking apart and resoldering a radiator is probably not a job I'd take on at this point without a lot more practice soldering other stuff and working with brass in general. Congrats on a job well done! Do you have any pictures of the gunk you got out? or was there a lot of it? Let us know how it runs!

[Mike V. Florida]

Don't you love it when a plan comes together!

[TerryH]

Many folks think they can clean out a badly clogged radiator by hot tanking it or other solutions, but if it is truly clogged, then rodding is the only way to get it truly clean. I had mine done professionally several years ago at the recommendation of Tom Endy, by an older gentleman who had formerly owned a radiator shop. You do have to be careful, as too much force with the rods can tear a hole in the tubes. Nice to hear that you were able to do it yourself!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Good job and it's nice to have it done right.
Did you use compressed air to blow away the solder from the top tank during removal?

[H. L. Chauvin]

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The little 1" or so thick, black paperback Model T Manual, "Model T Ford Service -- Detailed Instructions for Servicing Ford Cars", sold by parts vendors describes this radiator tank removal & cleaning procedure in detail.

There are many simple & easy to understand mechanical procedures & tips described in this little Model T manual that were never repeated in later Model A repair literature.

The trouble shooting part in the rear of this manual could apply to many internal combustion engines.

The interesting part in this manual is the Time Study with the ridiculously small amounts of time allowed for each mechanical procedure like:

A Ford mechanic should be able to completely remove a Model T differential, completely overhaul it, & completely re-install same within 3 hours & 28 minutes.

Please don't try to compete with any of Ford's mechanical procedures within Ford's Time Limits ......... unless if you have an experienced cardiologist as a helper with a fully equipped emergency ambulance parked in your driveway. LOL

[Ed Wendell]

A couple of additional things to keep in mind.
Solder likes a lower heat, keep your torch turned down. We used natural gas and oxygen for our torches. Clean, clean, clean and tin everything good before you put it back together.
If you can run water thru the radiator while you are rodding. Make an adapter with PVC fittings that with a short section of hose will hook to the bottom casting and a garden hose. You can put a tee on it and inject a few bursts of air to help get the loose crud out.
For taking the tank off, lay the radiator flat and use a good wire brush to remove the solder as you heat the seam. Do this on both ends then prop the radiator up on it's side and do the long seams. Lay the radiator down flat put a stick in the filler neck, keep pressure on the stick as you work the heat back and forth along the end and one long seam. When it comes loose then turn it over and do the same to the other long seam. Learned these tricks a soon as I could safely handle the torch and spent most Saturday mornings and summer breaks working in my dad's radiator shop.
Remember, keep your heat moving and NOT super hot.
Ed

[Afordman31]

Tom, no I didn't use compressed air but I sure will the next radiator I do. It sticks in my mind that I once heard of doing it that way but have forgot. Glad you asked, I will try it next time. Thank you, Afordman31

Montanafordman, I didn't take any pictures of the gunk that came out as I was flushing it. Afordman31