|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Walnut Grove, Mississippi
Posts: 609
|
![]()
ALL: Driving Clyde ('29 CCPU, bone stock) yesterday, I noticed the Motometer was slowly turning...........when I attempted to tighten it, the entire unit turned, to include the part that it screws onto (whatever that is called, I assume that is the radiator neck?) However, I can not just pull it straight up and out of the shell - will come up about 4 inches, then "hangs". SO - what have I done, and how do I repair it??
__________________
WARM REGARDS, MARCUS |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
|
![]()
It sound like the radiator neck needs to be resoldered, but I don't know where 4" of neck could have been hiding?
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 926
|
![]()
I have seen some 28/29 radiator necks that were extended down to just above the tubes. Makes a great baffle.
Agree with Tom. Needs to be re-soldered.
__________________
I noticed the harder I work the luckier I get! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: San Diego,Ca
Posts: 1,377
|
![]()
The radiator in my 29 double A was this way, I do not believe that it is an original design, it was also a 5 fin 3 row heavy radiator with the original look to it.
__________________
Nothing can be made foolproof, ---- fools are ingenious bastards. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Walnut Grove, Mississippi
Posts: 609
|
![]()
Thank you, all. NOW, for this dummy: What are the steps that I should take? PIPE wrench to separate the two pieces? Just need a starting point, so that I don't screw something else up and cause more problems. Thanks in advance for your guidance and education.
__________________
WARM REGARDS, MARCUS |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2012
Location: inside your RAM
Posts: 3,134
|
![]() Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
No pipe wrenches. Do not try to remove. Remove entire radiator and bring to rad. shop. They do not need to remove the neck to solder it back. If you try to remove it you will distort it leaving big gaps for them to solder, which does not work well
__________________
'31 180A |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Camino, CA.
Posts: 3,086
|
![]()
Remove the shell and the radiator to frame bolts. Put some cardboard between the radiator and the fan so you don't damage your radiator on the fan. Lift the radiator out and take it to a radiator shop to resolder the neck back on to the top tank. Might as well ask them to rod it out while it's there.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Webster, NY
Posts: 84
|
![]()
If it was mine I would try to GENTLY use a strap wrench on the neck - gently and carefully so as not to collapse the neck. Or take it off the car and let the radiator shop deal with it. They may be able to solder with the motometer in place.
I have epoxied radiator necks in place on pressure systems - maybe someone can give some guidance on that - patience is the key here. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
|
![]()
Take the shell with you so the radiator shop gets the neck the right height and the right position, so the ornament (motometer or bird) is positioned correctly.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Lake Mills, WI
Posts: 261
|
![]()
Another thing to keep in mind is the position of the slots on the radiator neck, so it is resoldered in the correct orientation. This is especially important if you are using a locking quail cap. I had the radiator for my sedan cleaned a couple of years ago, and the guy who repaired it completely disassembled it to clean it, then soldered it back together. After I put it back on the car, I could not get the locking quail cap to fit correctly because the notches in the radiator were not in the correct position, the bird would not sit straight! I had to remove everything again (hood, rods, etc,) and take it back to the radiator shop. The guy wanted to charge me another $50 to re-fit the neck so the slots were in the correct position. I told him he did not re-install it correctly, as the cap fit correctly before he worked on it. I took the locking quail cap along so he could see what I was talking about. He said he never ran into this problem before, and insisted on paying him for the repair again, but after promising him to bring in more radiators to fix ( and telling him it was his responsibility to reinstall as removed) he agreed to fix it no charge. Be sure it is done correctly !
Stew |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Walnut Grove, Mississippi
Posts: 609
|
![]()
Wonderful; as usual, very helpful assistance and guidance from you gurus! Now, I know where to start - THANK YOU!!
__________________
WARM REGARDS, MARCUS |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|