Flathead engine removal

[Macdozer]

I have a 1936 Ford panel delivery with a 59 A-B engine in it (24 stud).

Trying to get things together for the removal, first time doing this.
I have the hood, grill, and radiator all removed as well as the heads and intake manifold. Still have to remove exhaust.

Where/ what is the best way to pick from?
Does anyone make a lifting bracket that bolts on where the intake manifold would go? Or should I just make one?

Should I get an engine leveler like this?

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...ler-67441.html

The transmission will be coming out to but I think first I am just going to remove the engine first. As I understand it I just unbolt it from around the transmission and it should slide out.
Is that correct or is there any steps that I am missing?

[Scott H in Wheaton]

Thats a lot of work so far! Good job, and I'll bet you are having fun. I love doing that kind of work.

Don't over-think it...50 years ago the local garage didn't have or need an engine leveler. Simple to just bolt a chain diagnally from the front of one side to the rear of the other side. Put the hoist hook on the chain and pull! You'll be able to wiggle the engine around enough to mnuever it out of there with no problem.

[Binx]

Here's something to checkout:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...lifting+points

Lonnie

[Motorhead6]

Concur with ScottH, but would add that a bolt through a couple of links near the center of the chain to make a loop in the chain will stabilize the assembly so that it cannot tilt. To be a bit more clear, the engine can slip on the lifting hook and tilt forward or to the rear and cause damage or injury. Simply use a bit more slack in the chain that you bolt to the engine and sort of make a loop in the center of it by using about a 3" bolt with washers and a nut. Then slip the lifting hook into this loop and lift. Other than something like this, use the leveling apparatus.

[Lawson Cox]

Use a leveling bar/device and pull the engine and transmission at the same time. One man can do it but it helps to have someone to guide the engine/transmission while you do the lifting/lowering part. Piece of cake.

[Russ/40]

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I'd leave the transmission in like you planned. A piece of pipe under the transmission and over the frame rails will hold it at the right angle, and allow you to get a good look at the clutch linkage before disassembly. You have removed the anti-chatter rods ...... Right? Disconnect the exhaust at the block, leaving the rest intact. Easy to put back later. You did not need to pull the heads, which would be a lot easier after the motor is out. Also using the front driver side and rear passenger side intake manifold bolts with a segment of chain will allow you to pull it at a comfortable angle. Be sure to use a thick washer on the bolt over the chain. You could pick up a motor three times the weight with these lift points. Don't need a leveler, it's a waste of money. It's so easy to just wiggle things around and out.

[B-O-B]

Get yourself a levelor. Harbor freight on sale $27.00 . They make the job a lot easier to remove & install the engine. Hell you can just borrow one from a friend or rent one from autozone. They are cheap & well worth the money . Remember you need to put this back together also don't you? You can also use them for other things too.
While I'm here listen up TAKE YOURSELF A LOT OF PICTURES & MAKE NOTES. Being a first time deal for you. If you are already taking pictures & notes pay no attention to this ole fart.

[V12Bill]

Get the heat sensing bulb out of the way of harm. Crush that and you have a large expense to replace it.

[Macdozer]

Great advice thank you guys.

I still have to remove anti-chatter rods and exhaust.
I have been taking a lot of pictures and notes its the best way for me to stay organized.

After looking things over today I'm not sure which way to go. Remove engine and tranny together or one at a time.

With the engine out how would you remove the transmission, I don't have a transmission jack would I need one?

Does anyone have any good instructions or info on how to remove transmission?

[Tinker]

Pull the engine and trans together if its a full pull. Shifter can be removed by either pulling the top case and forks or removing the the shifter only. Ask if you want detail.

Levelers are nice but not necessary depending on firewall paint. If ya don't want to scratch anything then a leveler is best. Very least some old tshirts as buffers. Now on levers, the hf have gotten better but they are problematic. I have one that has done 3 pulls and has become very unstable (ask if interested) It's locked up in the crank and I will not use it again. If anyone has a suggestion on a good USA lever for under 200 I would like to hear about it.

Be safe, take your time, and don't be afraid to muscle it .

[Tinker]

Once the trans and engine are removed the trans will unbolt very easily. Use a big soft hammer and a small bar to separate, small bar for the seal. Undo bolts equally for best results, but that's it.

Engine and trans together is easier really. Otherwise you will have to support the trans to get the engine out. Engine and trans mounts are just that. Front of engine mounts to the front cross member (front of engine) then back of trans mounts to the rear of the trans. That holds it all to the frame.

[Macdozer]

should I remove the starter before removing engine?

[Tinker]

Ya dont have too. If your doing both. The more you take out the engine does help.

[Straightpipes]

I remove the engine and transmission as a unit. Much easier and since you have everything out of the way in front thats the way to go.

[DD931]

Agree with 'pipes.

[AnthonyG]

I've had mine in and out more than several times. With and without the tranny mounted. I find on the way back in much easier to do the install with the tranny on the complete engine. Anyway if you decide to install new PP, FW, TOB and Clutch much easier job out of the car. Last install against most advise I installed the engine and trans complete with intake on, heads on, and headers on, wasn't that bad on my '35. Leveler will be a big help. Having another pair of hands around is a very good Idea help and safety wise.

[B-O-B]

levelors can be used for many jobs. Pic is a 4L60 being painted.
I pulled & installed the engine & A T from our 57 T-bird by myself 4 different times. Now that is job doing it alone.

[Russ/40]

Originally Posted by Macdozer

Great advice thank you guys.

I still have to remove anti-chatter rods and exhaust.
I have been taking a lot of pictures and notes its the best way for me to stay organized.

After looking things over today I'm not sure which way to go. Remove engine and tranny together or one at a time.

With the engine out how would you remove the transmission, I don't have a transmission jack would I need one?

Does anyone have any good instructions or info on how to remove transmission?

First, the reason I dont like the leveler, is I pull with the hood on the car and the grill in place. On a forty that is tricky, and the leveler takes too much room. I also believe without the trans attached it is easy to vary the tilt of the motor by just moving the motor from the water pump mounts. the whole thing is more maneuverable without the trans. I have always done engine pulls and installs alone.
Now to the transmission removal. Like I said above, just slip a piece of 1 inch metal conduit pipe or the like, under the transmission and across the top frame rails. It holds the trans in the perfect orientation. Then to pull the tranny, after the mounts and clam-shell is undone, just climb in there between the frame rails, and pull it out. I just use my floor jack to catch the weight, its not that heavy, and doesn't have to move that far.
I understand others have different methods. I have adapted to what is easiest and safest for me without having to rely on others, and I have respect for their differences. Whatever floats your boat they say. JMHO

[Mart]

Well, I'll put my vote in in favour of the leveller. I bought one that looks like the one pictured and it's ideal for the flathead with the four angle brackets bolted to the intake surface. I extended the chains on mine and I can pull my motor with the hi-rise thickstun and the twin carbs still attached. I just used four long bolts, one in each corner.

Mart.

[Don]

I've had better luck with a plate bolted to the intake surface with the balance point rearward and centered and remove transmission with motor .you have the radiator out so you have plenty of room and pit it on before putting the motor back in,pro ally get by with the leveler if balance point is to rear of intake..