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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 322
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has anyone made their own packing? if so how did you get materials? i saw some 1/16'' graphite string for faucets but it seemed thin and not very much graphite on it.when looking at the cap [back to the bumper and facing driver's seat] which way does the shaft turn? any other tips would be appreciated. thank you in advance
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Parkerfield KS
Posts: 526
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For thicker string I'd check with a plumbing supply store. The shaft has to turn the same way as the engine, doesn't it?
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Two Rivers, Wi.
Posts: 1,406
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The pump turns the same direction as the engine. Take a foot at a time of that packing and wrap the shaft in the rotating direction adding some graphite never seize as you go. Run the nut (gland) as tight as you can by hand and turn the pump. Tighten a bit more with the water pump pliers until you feel decent resistance. If the gland bottoms out, add a few more wraps. Ideally, you need maybe 3-4 turns of engagement with the gland. Fill with water and fire it up. Snug the gland until is JUST WEEPS a drip of water. It needs to burnish itself against the shaft. Wrap your fingers around it and it should be NO HOTTER than the water, if it is, back off the nut a bit. Add water as necessary. After a while snug it a bit and eventually it "shouldn't leak". That depends on the shaft condition.
Honestly, a T shouldn't need a pump, but that's your call. Depending on the pumps gland, It may want to loosen up. I used a big pair of rusty vise grips on one and the weight of the pliers kept it from loosening. If that skinny packing seems too small, you can also braid it into a double or 3 or 4; the main goal is don't overtighten it to get it hot; that's bad! Don't forget, the flat belt only drags on about 1/8 of the pulley. Too tight and it wont turn. Theres a happy medium with all that T stuff. ws
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 6,408
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When I put string type packing in I wind it the opposite direction of rotation. That way any water will want to feed back into the pump not out. While the graphite packing will work see if they have a small package of the Teflon type faucet packing. Both should come in small blister packs so you don't have to buy a full spool.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 252
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As Yachtsmanbill stated above. A water pump should not be needed on a model T.
If your radiator is in good shape and the block is clean, there should be no need for that pain in the rear pump. Ford factory did not put pumps on the model T cars with exception of the early 1908 model. On a very marginal cooling systems, the pump might help. I live in South Texas and drive parades without a pump in July with not overheating problems on any of my cars. (no pumps on any of my cars) |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 322
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 322
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thanks to all, very informative - i'm a beginner-what does belt drags 1/8 on pulley mean?
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Two Rivers, Wi.
Posts: 1,406
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IDEALLY, a belt will run around 1/2 of a pulley. On the T, the flat belt barely contacts about 1/8 of the circumference making slipping a real possibility. Tighten it TOO MUCH and its tough on the adjuster pulley bushings. or the water neck pulley bushings on the 26-27 models. ws
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,369
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You will prematurely damage the pump shaft with string packing. Ford advertisements warned against it. use packing sold by the model A parts suppliers it will work without scoring the shaft. A faucet turns very few revolutions in a year.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 322
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thank you -that makes sense
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