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#1 |
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Location: Lakeville, MN
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I have what I believe are two original terminal boxes. I am posting a picture of them below. The threaded binding posts are different in each of the boxes. One box has no exposed parts on the post on the back side (just bakelite). The other one has spots where round headed 10-32 screws are installed with a hex nut on the other side. I am curious as to whether these boxes are really original Ford parts and if someone knows the story on these boxes.
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#2 |
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Location: Mpls, MN
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They look original from what I can see. Mine has some black filler over the 2 screw heads.
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#3 |
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If you look at front side of the box on the left you will find shoulders on the studs. That is the case on all originals. Do you have the covers?
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#4 |
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Rusty,
I put silicone into those two holes to ensure 'no shorting' of those two screw. Mabe that's what was done to the one of yours? |
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#5 |
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RH t-box appears to be a repop.The originals Ive seen had the terminal studs molded in to prevent the studs from turning.The repops are not very good.
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#6 |
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#7 |
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Marco,
Yes, I have covers for both both boxes. The box on the left does have shoulders on the two brass studs, so it is almost certainly an original. The one on the right only has a place molded in the box for a brass hex nut for each stud. The one on the right is probably an older repro part. BTW, what is the best way to clean up the boxes - a little sanding with very fine sandpaper - maybe 400 - 600 grit? One box has some discoloring on it I would like to get rid of. Thanks for the responses. Rusty Nelson |
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#8 | |
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![]() Quote:
In some cases they can be cleaned up with light use of rubbing compound. However before you try anything let me see the back side of the original cover so maybe I can tell you more about that particular box.
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#9 |
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I took a couple of picture of the covers. I see no grind marks on the sides. There is a Ford script on the on one on the right. The one on the left has some numbers on the inside, but they are hard to make out.
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#10 | |
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That cover (and presumably the box) was used from early-mid '29-on and is made from hard rubber. Fordite (Bakelite type material) was used most of 1928. Rubbing compound used lightly by hand will work as suggested previously. Around depressions which are difficult to get a cloth into use a fairly firm toothbrush with the same rubbing compound.
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#11 |
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Thanks for the input from all that responded, especially Marco. Tom Moniz also emailed me some good pictures, thanks Tom.
Rusty Nelson |
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#12 |
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Marco & Rusty..
OK...I quit drinking coffee and I'm not on the same page! Could you post some photos of the different styles, inside & out, so I know were I'm at? Thanks, Dudley |
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#13 |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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Another technique for preventing the binding posts from shorting against the firewall... When I replaced the terminal box in our car, I used a round leather punch to make a couple of rubber circles from an old tube that fit into those openings for the binding posts.
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#14 |
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* Inside/outside of early 'high script' lids.
* I am under the impression that 'original' lids do not have the 'nipples' cast into them (used to center the lid on the box) ![]() * Scan of 1-1-28 Parts List showing an oval opening ... assume the 'tombstone' opening was later (date of change ??) ... never a dull moment in this hobby ![]() |
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#15 |
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some originals have the little nubs
you can plainly see the AE manufacturers stamp on this one tom |
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#16 |
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I have just about 50-50 of each style
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#17 |
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#18 |
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#19 |
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![]() Hey, what are you doing adding Canadian stuff into the mix? ![]() The seven lugs inside the cover were added for late 1928 (+/-).
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#20 |
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The seven lugs inside the cover were added for late 1928 (+/-).
1. any idea when the script disappeared? 2. any thoughts on the oval/tombstone shaped openings? (i.e., date vs. maker?) |
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